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dually

A few problems

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When i turn key to on the injection pump runs non stop, the tach will flutter, the fuel relay in the pdc will click,the fass fuel relay will click and the black relay in the cab will also click.What should i do? If i pull all the relays the tach will still bounce.After i remove the key the relay in the cab still clicks.What should i do? Sometimes i have no codes when it does this. If i start the truck when the tach is bouncing i can drive it and it runs fine.The engine light will be on and i can get 8 or so codes. I can clear all of them and it will be fine for a day or so. None of the 8 codes are real.The truck runs fine.shifts fine. It does this with 2 different pcm'sIt does this with 2 different ecm's What should i check ?thank you.

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0232, 219, 215, 1689 ,341 ,1690 ,370, 1693.Now this is an internmittent problem.It will run and drive fine for 50 miles.I can shut off truck and start it up again drive 20 miles everything is fine.Then it hits.Sometimes i just get ccd code and thats it.To me the codes are bogus.The truck runs and shifts fine.Everything in the truck works.

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Hmmm... I would double check the connector on the ECM and see if there is moisture in the socket or the pin are corroded... From what I'm seeing in the error codes I think there is some truth to it but I think its a loose or poor connection...

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I will check it but the wire harness for the ecm and pcm are brand new. So is the ecm.2 new batterys,alt,injection pump,ecm,wire harnesses

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Sounds like a bad connection to me, too. Could the fuel system be looking for a ground causing some feedback? I would also be suspicious of the ignition switch. You can probably figure out a voltage or continuity test for the switch. Maybe there is a faulty contact in the "On" position?These are just guesses, but I always tend to start with the simplest possible solutions.Good luck,bb

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Have you figured it out yet?? I agree with Mike and say you might have a connection problem. Get some dielectric grease and put inside the plug to prevent corrosion and moisture from causing problems!!:thumbup2:

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I am cleaning grounds.The one under the driver side battery was green and nasty looking.I had to cut it and put a different end on.I also put a different pcm on just to see.Started it a few times everything is good so far.Work is picking up maybe i will have some time this weekend.

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I am cleaning grounds.The one under the driver side battery was green and nasty looking.I had to cut it and put a different end on.I also put a different pcm on just to see.Started it a few times everything is good so far.Work is picking up maybe i will have some time this weekend.

I watched a Suburban catch fire while idling in my shop. The culprit was a bad ground. Absent a good ground, the e-brake cables became the source for the ground. They got very hot and caught fire. We were simply lucky that I passed by the truck just as the cables burst into flames. My point is that I have worked on several strange problems resulting from bad grounds. In one case simply adding a frame-to-body strap to fixed an intermittent electrical issue. I wish you luck... bb

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The one under the driver side battery was green and nasty looking.

under the battery? thats a crappy place to put it. is it a body ground? do you mean its under the tray or can you see it from under the truck?

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I watched a Suburban catch fire while idling in my shop. The culprit was a bad ground. Absent a good ground, the e-brake cables became the source for the ground. They got very hot and caught fire. We were simply lucky that I passed by the truck just as the cables burst into flames. My point is that I have worked on several strange problems resulting from bad grounds. In one case simply adding a frame-to-body strap to fixed an intermittent electrical issue. I wish you luck... bb

That is wild!!! I would hate that to be my truck, man that would suck for sure. Lets not have any respects that guys!!:thumbup2:

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I watched a Suburban catch fire while idling in my shop. The culprit was a bad ground. Absent a good ground, the e-brake cables became the source for the ground. They got very hot and caught fire. We were simply lucky that I passed by the truck just as the cables burst into flames.

My point is that I have worked on several strange problems resulting from bad grounds. In one case simply adding a frame-to-body strap to fixed an intermittent electrical issue.

I wish you luck...

bb

That is in the plans.I am going to add a few grounds.

--- Update to the previous post...

under the battery? thats a crappy place to put it. is it a body ground? do you mean its under the tray or can you see it from under the truck?

If you look by the windshield wiper juice can you can see it form the top side.It is a pdc ground.Several wires come together.
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so far so good.After cleaning some grounds and 3 or 4 statrs.Just one code 1690.Will be checking around.I could have a bad pump and thats no big deal.It is under warranty.

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Remember the ECM ground, APPS, ECT, MAP, IAT, Cam sensor, etc all comes back to behind the starter... Yes you must pull the starter to gain access to it... As for bad ground I had a friend buy a battery because a vehicle had no light or any power on the dash when the key was on. So I showed up with my DVM and started doing voltage drop test on the cables and wiring finding several above the 0.2 Volt limit. But the greatest one was the master ground cable was 12.65 volts (internal break) sure enough took a jumper cable between the block and the negative post and rig fire right up. The point I'm making is that a lot of times the acid will get into cables and rot them internally till ther break or weak in my case the acid rotted the terminal head back just enough the the copper and the lead terminal no longer made contact... Simple $20 fix with a new cable...:thumbup2:

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Years ago, I had a big ground cable go bad on my old 79 Chevy C30. I went to start it with a mechanic watching & all the small grounds melted! Found the problem! Unfortunately, it was at the garage then so had to have them replace them.Russ

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Remember the ECM ground, APPS, ECT, MAP, IAT, Cam sensor, etc all comes back to behind the starter... Yes you must pull the starter to gain access to it... As for bad ground I had a friend buy a battery because a vehicle had no light or any power on the dash when the key was on. So I showed up with my DVM and started doing voltage drop test on the cables and wiring finding several above the 0.2 Volt limit. But the greatest one was the master ground cable was 12.65 volts (internal break) sure enough took a jumper cable between the block and the negative post and rig fire right up. The point I'm making is that a lot of times the acid will get into cables and rot them internally till ther break or weak in my case the acid rotted the terminal head back just enough the the copper and the lead terminal no longer made contact... Simple $20 fix with a new cable...:thumbup2:

Thanks, i did not have them on my to do list.I want to have a look see at everything.

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