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Fuel Filter Delete


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I have a 2001 Cummins with a air dog 150 gpm i have the stock fuel filter housing still wanted to delete it so I had easier access to change the oil pressure sensor, not entirely sure what the previous owner has down to the truck, i believe the air dog runs directly to the pump not sure if i does or can run thur the stock filter housing would like utilize the wif and the fuel heater if possible what can or should i be looking for please greatly appreciate it

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Go from the VP inlet back and see where it goes. Plenty of folks run without the factory filter when using that the dual filter set up that comes with some of the Air Dogs or Fass. The AD 150 should have come with that set up. 

 

I still use mine. It is very easy to unbolt and move out of the way.

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In stock form it is a bit restrictive for sure. A big line kit from Vulcan performance will take care of that. It will replace the restrictive banjo bolts and such. It is a very common modification. Did mine about 9 years ago.

Edited by JAG1
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9 hours ago, dripley said:

In stock form it is a bit restrictive for sure. A big line kit from Vulcan performance will take care of that. It will replace the restrictive banjo bolts and such. It is a very common modification. Did mine about 9 years ago.

Yep it best not to drive the truck till you can see the fuel pressure always staying above 14 p.s.i.. This is important to save your injection pump. On the stock fuel system, pulling away from stops, I would see the fuel pressure typically drop to 7 p.s.i. :nono: Soon as I got the 1/2'' lines installed it was a major difference. I put pedal to the metal going onto the freeway and it was 15 ps.i. all the time. wouldn't go down. Later I adjusted the fuel pressure to be around 19 and I could get it to drop to about 16 or so.

 

BTW, I use the stock filter as a secondary filter and installed a primary filter before the lift pump to stop sediment from hurting the lift pump. The big line kit will make it so much less restrictive that it will allow for the filters it really needs. :thumb1:

Edited by JAG1
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AirDog 150 to the stock fuel filter. Then called Eric at Vulcan Performance and order a big line kit for the stock fuel filter to VP44. This keeps the fuel heater for winter operation. This keeps the water in fuel light operation. Fuel temp will closely follow IAT temperature. This is a good thing. 

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Mine is different....Intank screens removed..... 1/2'' drawstraw....  large water separating filter....Raptor 150.... to factory filter and then on to the VP44. All connected with 1/2 lines. The fuel pressure gauge 'T' is before the VP44 with a pulsating dampner valve to keep the gauge from water hammer damage.

Edited by JAG1
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My gauge set up. Mechanical not electric. Got the idea from some named Mikey. Wonder what happened to him? Sorry now I remeber, he got hit by lightening.

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That is the big line kit with fuel pressure gauge tap and onto the VP. The fuel filter is to the right.

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This is my current setup. 1st pic is the line going from the airdog to the pump. 2nd pic Im not sure where the banjo fitting goes to if it was the old one off the pump.I just need to know what fitting i need to go from the airdog to the stock fuel filter housing and from that to the pump thanks

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Whats your fuel pressure range with that set up? It does not look quite right. Eric at Vulcan performance helped me a lot getting rid of all the banjos and hard 90s. Man..... what a difference too :thumb1:. He provides a long sweep 90 at the VP to prevent cavitation.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? I would not drive it till you can keep fuel pressures in the right range and be able to stay on top of it with a reliable gauge.

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Fuel pressure is 19, originally it had a mechanical Isspro, but it was leaking so I replaced it with an electric still at 19 pounds with current setup.  this pic it looks like it goes from the bottom other stock fuel filter to the pump I just need to go from the airdog to the fuel filter, or something similar to this would Eric have everything I need

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From the looks of the pictures the oe filter is bypassed. Looks like the lines just disconnected and left in place. Take the 2 bolts loose at the manifold and see if it lifts out. Watch out for the electrical connections.

As mentioned before follow the fuel line from the VP. If it does not go straight to the filter canister, it is by passed.

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If you hook it back up just remove the line and fitting from the VP and install into the filter canister. You will need to shorten the fuel and might need a push lock coupling maybe. I can't remember how the quick disconnects are attatched to the fuel line. Eric has those too.

Edited by JAG1
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