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in tank fuel pump wiring help


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I bought this, (see link) to make my "waste of money'' o'Reilly's in-tank pump work on with my block pump truck (to make the in tank pump)https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-2500-3500-Fuel-Pump-Transfer-Conversion-Wiring-Harness-NEW-OEM-MOPAR/401565500005?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and i don't understand how it's suppose to make my pump work, i need a diagram i haven't found anything that makes sense or is detailed

my truck is a 2001 bone stock 3500 C&C 24 valve nv 5600

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4602/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-pumps-tanks-16472/fuel-pump-strainer-16843/fuel-pump-12322/83db8e3f0135/precision-fuel-pump-module-assembly/a30060/4614935/2001/dodge/ram-3500?q=fuel+pump&pos=0. This is the pump i have in the tank

 

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3 minutes ago, shade tree fixer said:

I bought this, (see link) to make my "waste of money'' o'Reilly's in-tank pump work on with my block pump truck (to make the in tank pump)https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-2500-3500-Fuel-Pump-Transfer-Conversion-Wiring-Harness-NEW-OEM-MOPAR/401565500005?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

and i don't understand how it's suppose to make my pump work, i need a diagram i haven't found anything that makes sense or is detailed

my truck is a 2001 bone stock 3500 C&C 24 valve nv 5600

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4602/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-pumps-tanks-16472/fuel-pump-strainer-16843/fuel-pump-12322/83db8e3f0135/precision-fuel-pump-module-assembly/a30060/4614935/2001/dodge/ram-3500?q=fuel+pump&pos=0. This is the pump i have in the tank

 

Your first link is jsut a wiring harness that will take the electrical load off of the ECM. I f the in tank pump is not working I dont believe the wiring harness will do a thing other than help protect your ECM. That is a good thing but if the pump is bad it wont help the pump.

 

The second link is just to another in tank pump. The in tank pump is a waste of money. You need to upgrade the fuel system to a mechanical pump or electrical AD or FASS pump. Did I mention the in tank pumps are junk?

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3 minutes ago, shade tree fixer said:

that pump is what i could get that  day

the old one had sh*t for suction screens 

Well I ended up with one when my factory block pump failed. Worked for a year or so and the pressure started failing. They just are not good on a VP truck. It was at one Dodge's go to pump but they suck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

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The only way I found out the in tank was failing was to take it to shop and have them diagnose mine. The fuel pressure was near 0 psi with full throttle. Not good. I did at that time add a booster pump from BD diesel on the frame rails to mine and did help.  I ran it that way for 3 or 4 years until I replaced with an Ait Dog system with exterior filters. The screens on the in tank pump are good for the pump but if they clog now you have to remove the the bed or drop the tank to clean them. Not very appetizing for a clogged filter. Good fuel pressure is a must for the VP engine. Hence why most all of us here run a fuel pressure gauge so we can keep track of the pressure.

 

The wiring harness will not help a failing pump but will be kinder to the ECM by getting the electrical load off of it. There is a test port on the fuel inlet on the VP you can put test gauge on to see what the pressure is. What symptoms does your have of a problem?

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I guess I need to know about whats going on with the truck. If it idles you have a fuel supply. The lift pump, your in tank pump, has nothing to do with the engine reving up. It only supplies fuel to the injection pump,  the VP44. The computers and the APPS control engine rpm and fuel. The VP44 is capable of pulling its own fuel but it is not good for it. I have had 2 instances of lift pump failure and the truck would still drive with a dead lift pump.

 

Is your lift pump running? 

1.  At key on it should run for about one second.

2. Bump the starter, no engine start, it should for 20+ seconds

3.  Start the engine and itnshould run continuously. 

 

1 and 3 are going to be to hard hear. 1 being a short burst and 3 hearing it over the engine running. 2 you should be able hear it with your ear close to the tank. This is another reason to have pressure gauge. You can see it working.

 

How is your in tank pump wired?

The harness you linked is almost necessary to run the pump. Though you can tap into the factory pig tail for the block mounted pump and extend it back to the in tank pump to run it. As I mention earlier the harness will take the load off of the ECM which is a better set up.

 

Do you know what other codes may be present besides the APPS codes?

 

You mention a reman ECM. I have to assume that you have had ECM issues. Which one is in the truck now?

Edited by dripley
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14 hours ago, dripley said:

 

 

How is your in tank pump wired

its not that's the reson i made this post 

14 hours ago, dripley said:

 

 

You mention a reman ECM. I have to assume that you have had ECM issues. Which one is in the truck now?

reman but i cant run it because i dont have a working fuel supply system and i' ve been busy with helping my dad with getting our non mopar c*ap going, and i wont have time till around lunch time  

14 hours ago, dripley said:

Do you know what other codes may be present besides the APPS codes?

 

not at this time 

14 hours ago, dripley said:

I have to assume that you have had ECM issues

yes, which are that the ecm would trigger tps codes as soon as you turn it on (key in the "run" position) (i can see, with my scanner  under what conditions the code(s) were triggered) and even with a new tps i could not adjust the base volts, or get any tps percentage when monitored with scan tool live data 

ive checked every wire associated with the vp,map,and tps, 

Edited by shade tree fixer
i goofed
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I have tried to find a wiring diagram somewhere for that harness. I even dug for the one I had but came up empty. The only things I can recognize in pictures is this. The fused wire is for 12v power and there should be a ground for that. The orange wire with maybe a white tracer I believe should go the fuel basket for the fuel level sender. The gray connector should go to the oe pigtail for the block mounted pump. What I cant see is the other 2 wires and connector that should go to the fuel basket, Orange wire included. Boggles my mind why a wiring diagram is so hard to find on something that was so common for a while. @IBMobile dont you have one hiding in a draw somewhere? 

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  • Staff

Never mind fooling with the unknown and make up your own wire harness; that will take the guess work out of what color wire goes to what.  The article below may help you make a harness.

@dripleyI've been in JAG1's driveway for the past 10 days redoing the roof on my 5er with him while I redid his heater core and AC evaporator in his work truck.  He has wifi but where I'm located on the driveway it is really slow. 

 

 

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