Fuel Filter Housing Removal

[Rowan24v]

I installed a fass 100gph a few months ago and its been putting a steady 19 psi at idle and 17 at wot, and for the longest time now ive wanted to remove my stock fuel filter housing and lift pump. So i got to removing the housing and that all went well as did removing the stock lift pump. I left the bracket in plate to support the ecm wires, but i was just wondering what i do with the WIF and Fuel heater wiring. Can i just leave them unplugged without touching anything else (and tape them up) or is there a fuse or something i need to remove so i dont light the truck on fire because of the unplugged fuel heater plug? Please help, need to know asap ?

[dripley]

I would cover the open connector and tie them up out of the way. 

[Rowan24v]

Yep i ended up removing my fuel filter canister and taped up the plugs and no problems yet beaides fuel getting into my oil after new injectors were installed ?

[Mopar1973Man]

Should of kept the stock filter. There is 3 reasons...

 

1. Fuel heater works in the winter time. The stock filter housing pull engine heat to warm fuel without out it gell up is possible. 

2. The water in fuel light works too. 

 

AirDog 150 with stock filter down to -40*F no anti-gel and no supplement heat needed. Never gelled once yet.

 

3. Then my stock filter catches the stuff that the 3um AirDog missed. 

 

Stock on the left (7um) and the (3um) AirDog on the right. 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2020 by Mopar1973Man

[wil440]

I haven't got the stock filter, plugs are tied up and causes no bother at all, I use a Cat filter head and Cat filters 

How I see it Dodge made such a pissant job on the fuel side I'll do it all myself, mechanical lift pump, Cat filters..... soon to be bigger Cat fuel/water separator and Cat fuel filter side by side

 

Also am I missing something I thought 3um was a finer filter medium than 7um...... if so how does a 7um filter catch what a 3um filter misses or did I get it the wrong way round ??

Edited August 29, 2020 by wil440

[Mopar1973Man]

18 hours ago, wil440 said:

Also am I missing something I thought 3um was a finer filter medium than 7um...... if so how does a 7um filter catch what a 3um filter misses or did I get it the wrong way round ??

 

Yup you heard that right. My 7um filter is catching what my 3um filter is passing. AirDog 150 is a 3 um filter and then the NAPA filter I put in the stock can is a 7um filter. It's catching what the 3um filter is passing. I change filter every 60k miles. Yup 60,000 miles. Before then the AirDog filter looks like brand new. 

 

AirDog 150 3um filter at 15,000 miles...

[Rowan24v]

When i was running the stock filter housing with my fass 100gph i was only getting 16 psi at idle and 11 at wot confirmed by two seperate fp guages, one at the fass and inbetween the filter housing and my bigline kit from the filter housing to the vp even with a snubber and needle valve to make sure i had no fluctuation. I removed the housing and plumbed it to the vp straight and ive been getting 18 psi idle and 15 wot with 125hp injectors and edge juice on 5x5 for testing. I know i had no problems at all with gelling in the winter at -40°C where i am, plus my fp didnt increase in the winter at all so i wasnt too worried about it. Started up within half a second even in the winter but keep in mind i ran fuel stabilizer/anti gel where i am. I know the vp's healthy since the po had a ddrp on it at 20 psi idle and 14 wot when i bought the truck, but i appreciate the information! I know i ran the fuel filter housing and fass together and my fuel filter was completelt clean when i tore it apart after 30,000 kms after the fass so im not crazy worried but if i see any changes ill definitely add it back! Thats with a sump too so i definitely already sucked up all the junk n the bottom of the tank since i forgot to flush it after i drilled the hole #brainfart haha.

Also, update on the fuel in the oil, turns out when i installed the injectors, my old connector tubes didnt seat properly into the injectors and blew fuel past the orings on the injectors into the oil so i ended up just replacing the old connector tubes, new orings on them, new orings on the injector bodies and new copper washers from cummins, and i noticed the truck runs 10x better now than before the injectors. Im guessing something was wrong with the old tubes since my engine used to have almost like a fuel knock that only the driver could hear, but me being worried just figured the engine was tired. But since i changed the tubes and injectors, instead of just the injectors (the old ones were toast and i was quoted $950 for new bosch stock nozzles or i could get new 125hp full injectors for $900 from dfi so you can guess which one i took haha) the knock has upped and dissapeared, which made me very ecstatic as you can imagine haha