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Hey all, I have a 2000 CTD 2WD.I returned from a canoeing trip yesterday with no issues thru the trip at all, turned around in my drive and tried to back up to the garage and the truck wouldn't back up....The trans was like stuck in drive. I put it in Neutral and it still crept forward. Put it in reverse and it backed up like the brakes were on.... any ideas?How do I know if the trans is a 46RH or a 47RH.Could it be possible for the TC lockup to be stuck on? just an idea.I drained the pan and pulled it, initial inspection shows no visible issues, some debris on the magnet, no shavings ectThe VIN # is IB7KC2363YJI78907 If that helps to I D the trans

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I would start off with checking for codes. The key trick will not work. Also, I have heard sometimes that loose connections on your battery terminals can give you fits with proper operation of the tranny. Sounds crazy I know!

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Any problems with your linkages ??Basically the metal rods right by the transmission inlet on drivers side that engage the gears .... and there is a spring up there also ........ at least on mine (47re).When you move you shift arm in cab through the gears - does it feel normal or sloppy ? And do all the 'D|P|R|1|2' all line up correctly with the red shift indicator ?

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All of the linkages appear fine, I cleaned the screens on the solenoids, there was a little debris on them. just kind of did a general inspection visually. There were no broken pieces in the pan. The band adjusters seemed a little loose but??? I am beginning to suspect a valve body issue, or internal leakage? Aren't there any trans techs on this forum? Help

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All of the linkages appear fine, I cleaned the screens on the solenoids, there was a little debris on them. just kind of did a general inspection visually. There were no broken pieces in the pan. The band adjusters seemed a little loose but??? I am beginning to suspect a valve body issue, or internal leakage? Aren't there any trans techs on this forum? Help

If the pan was clean (apart from clutch dust) - and assuming the color of the tranny wasn;t too dark/burnt and the linkages are ok I would 1) Check control arm for the shifter in the valve body - again on my 47re it needs to make physical contact internally in order for tranny to engage. I had one that the little metal extension on the shift rod was broken. 2) Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. 3) Check all components that you can see without pulling the Valve Body - eg broken/loose springs etc 4) Tighten the bands as per http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm 5) Fill up fluid and reconnect batteries and see if any difference Bands could make shifting an issue. Battery/electrical problems I think will normally show up as delayed shifting issues or starting in 3rd. The internal band controls the 'R' shift. Here's a nmote on TPS voltages for reference later - not suggesting thats your issue. But if you have time to check. http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm Also here is the TV cable adjustment. Again I believe if not correct normally delayed/erratic shifts. http://www.dieselbookmarks.com/bombers/47RE%2024v%20TV%20Cable%20Adjustment.pdf So I would start with 1-5 and make sure you have clean fluid and correct levels and the bands adjusted ......

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the 8th number from left to right is a 6...so it is a 47re....F Y I ....4 stands for 4 speed automatic...7 stands for 0 thru 9 being the strength..9 being the highest....r stands for rearwheel drive and the ...e stands for electronicnally controlled tranny...the H..in the 47 rh stands for hydraulicaaly controlled tranny...fyi for folks!:thumbup2:

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We pulled the trans and my son who is a GM Mechanic took it into the Dodge dealer who is affiliated with his dealership, (same owner) His buddy took it apart and inspected everything, he said that the clutch packs were wore out and everything was ok. They are going to put in a seal kit ect and I should have it back 1st of the week.....YEAH!! I HOPE?????

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Hey!!!! I got my trans back from the rebuilder.......$200.00 / Parts, and $150.00 / Labor....$425.00 total with fluid and I am back on the road, yeah!!Anyway everything seems fine, shifts good, better than before, he found both clutch pacs were worn some, rear pac was worse, and siezed up kind of from a fibre washer that kind of melted for some reason. The trans was heated up pretty good once but that was a year ago????Anyway he put in new clutch pacs and seals, bands were like new, O D Clutches were good too. Good news to me.....Back burnin grease and rollin coal

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Hey!!!! I got my trans back from the rebuilder.......$200.00 / Parts, and $150.00 / Labor....$425.00 total with fluid and I am back on the road, yeah!!

Man thats awesome - that your back on road and that price !!! Wher edid you get your tranny gone through for that ??

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It was a "side job" for a Dodge mechanic, and a favor for my son who is a GM mechanic..............gotta love cash !!

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If you were that far you should have sprung for a shift kit/aftermarket valvebody and a better converter and taken out the rest of the week linksw so it would live basically forever in a stock rig. The reason for burning up clutch packs is because the stock valve body supplies such low pressures. Oem does this purposefully to sell more parts and service.:spend:

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I do have a shift kit and a H D Converter, stock Valve body for now though......only so much $$$$to go round eh?

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