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smokeythedodge

Freshening up engine thread...

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Probably not very intersting, but maybe it could help someone out. Hell I like cummins engines, I would probably kill some time looking at pictures of a guy tearing one apart, figure somebody else might. Reason for pulling it... NVG 5600 tranny went out the other day, so I decided to just go ahead and pull and freshen this motor up, dry compression is pretty high so I will probably not be doing anything as far as honing or new rings. Might, might not. Haven't decided yet. I WILL be replacing the rod and main bearings, all gaskets including front and rear main and head, and will be cleaning and painting it up with cummins apex red engine paint, part number #3885910 just for the hell of it, will also be installing a Medium duty truck transmission of some sort!!! Don't know how much time I will have to mess with it, only had 4 hours in it today, so here is the process as of day 1.

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as you can see it is a greasy, oily pig sty. Got some corrosion and rust starting, so I will taking care of that.

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You might find it hard to get the engine up and out of the engine mounts because of the cowl. I saw a guy with a body lift that wouldn't have had any trouble. Anyhow, if you get all the weight off the engine mount, you can take the 3 bolts off on each bracket on the side of the block. That way is 10x easier than messing with those engine mount slots. The oil pan is kind of an issue and I had to take the pickup line off and leave the oil pan unbolted to do anything. Of course I was trying to get it out of those god forsaken slots, I put it back in by unbolting the brackets and that was incredibly easy. Great pics! :thumbup2:

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Can you get some more of the drivers side?

[*]Side of VP44

[*]Back of VP44

[*]Lower shot of drivers side

[*]a shot standing at the drivers side back corner showing everything

That should do it for me. Now that I have worked on a 24V it is all coming together, if you could get those pics I think it would all make more sense.

Get a pic of that cam sensor too, wherever it is.

Yours was as greasy as mine was. I just got degreaser and soaked the frame and power washed it. You can scrub all you want but the power washer really made the job go easily. Same thing with all the oil on the engine.

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Can you get some more of the drivers side?

[*]Side of VP44

[*]Back of VP44

[*]Lower shot of drivers side

[*]a shot standing at the drivers side back corner showing everything

That should do it for me. Now that I have worked on a 24V it is all coming together, if you could get those pics I think it would all make more sense.

Get a pic of that cam sensor too, wherever it is.

Yours was as greasy as mine was. I just got degreaser and soaked the frame and power washed it. You can scrub all you want but the power washer really made the job go easily. Same thing with all the oil on the engine.

Will do!

It's nasty isn't it! Yeah I have got a beastly pressure washer, so we'll see how it works on this stuff later on today!

--- Update to the previous post...

Here are some more.... Might be good for reference, helping give people a visual of what they need to check/replace so forth.......

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Perfect! I never knew exactly what the back half had on it and now it's crystal clear. Thanks for taking those pics :thumbup2:That thing sure did shine up!I gotta see this thing when it is red, that is just gonna be incredible. If it looks as good as I think it will I will take mine back out real quick and paint it too :lol:

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Awesome pics.ok - for the juniors here - whats the quick step guide for doing something like this. Not that I would do it without someone with me who had done it before - but what are the "main" steps. I was looking at the pics and wondering - where did the transmission go ?? Never seen an engine taken out apart from TV where the remove the enine block and tranny all in one go - smaller cars. So basic overview of steps ? I heard there are only a few bolts holding the block to the frame :shrug:But assume as well as removing fuel/wiring harnesses/vacuums/coolant radiator/exhaust/belts etc you also have to de-couple from transmission .... and other stuff ?? How many hours work ? IN and out ?

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Awesome pics.

ok - for the juniors here - whats the quick step guide for doing something like this. Not that I would do it without someone with me who had done it before - but what are the "main" steps.

I was looking at the pics and wondering - where did the transmission go ?? Never seen an engine taken out apart from TV where the remove the enine block and tranny all in one go - smaller cars.

So basic overview of steps ? I heard there are only a few bolts holding the block to the frame :shrug:

But assume as well as removing fuel/wiring harnesses/vacuums/coolant radiator/exhaust/belts etc you also have to de-couple from transmission .... and other stuff ??

How many hours work ? IN and out ?

I'm thinking it could be done in about 6-8 hours each way. There really isn't that much to it.

[*]Take off radiator, intercooler, all that front end stuff

[*]Take off fan, belts

[*]take off compressor for a/c, if you left it charge, then you leave all the a/c stuff on the truck

[*]take off power steering pump

[*]take off transmission bolts and stuff

[*]take off vacuum line that goes onto vacuum pump

[*]take off battery cables from engine block/starter

[*]disconnect exhaust

[*]disconnect throttle linkage

[*]disconnect wiring

[*]disconnect fuel lines

After all that is disconnected you can pull it out. Thats the crash course through it anyways..

You may or may not have to raise the engine and get at the oil pan to take it and the oil pickup line off. I think some people have enough clearance to not have to do this.

You can't really take then engine and trans out all in one go because you would be looking at 1500+ lbs. It is possible, but I doubt many people try it. My cherry picker was straining so much with just the engine I thought I missed a bolt..

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Well.... Had to write a bunch of briefs for Legal Writing and had about 3 days worth of cases to catch up on for Civil Procedure (first semester of law school, and it is brutally hard so far, just fyi) So.... I didn't get to do much else on the truck project after this morning.............Will definitely be replacing all the gaskets: front and rear main, gear housing gasket (have to pull cam) head gasket, gasket behind fuel pump block off bracket thing, vacuum pump, and intake runner plate gasket, and cam cover (tappet cover) rubber gasket, oil cooler, a/c bracket o-ring, dipstick o-ring.Lets hear some thoughts on paint prep for this engine!!!!I want an extremely high quality looking paint job on this motor... I hink what I will do is go over it again with my hot water pressure washer (5,000 psi) after I have the vp44 off and everything else..... Then start sanding!! Or should I???? This paint comes in a spray can, and says Cummins on it I think it is for touching up engines that came from Cummins in the traditional Apex Cummins Red color. Not sure how well it will do as far as being the primary paint covering. I want to hear what you all have to say about paint choices and prep for this motor!! I am only 21, still wet behind the ears, so I will definitely heed any advice from this diverse group!

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Get you a little pneumatic sander, they have a sander about the size of quarter or fifth cent piece. I sanded my Lincoln SA200 and it was perfect for getting around tight spots. All you need is to ruff up the old paint, you dont need to take it all the way down to metal.Harbor Fraight I think.

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Get you a little pneumatic sander, they have a sander about the size of quarter or fifth cent piece. I sanded my Lincoln SA200 and it was perfect for getting around tight spots. All you need is to ruff up the old paint, you dont need to take it all the way down to metal.

Harbor Fraight I think.

I'll do that! Decided to go with some Duplicolor Engine Enamel, in bright red.

Got another question for you all...... I am not real familiar with different metric fitting sizes.... So here is my query. Put forth visually!

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I had to take mine to the machine shop anyway and they hot tanked it and didn't charge me since they were doing some work. It took all of the old paint and rust off of it. I didn't sand or treat it with anything else. I repainted it with regular spray engine enamel paint and after it was all back together and inside couldn't tell it was a spray paint job.

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I'll do that! Decided to go with some Duplicolor Engine Enamel, in bright red. Got another question for you all...... I am not real familiar with different metric fitting sizes.... So here is my query. Put forth visually!

I would just take everything off that you are wondering about and go to lowes or something and see what screws onto the threads, then you will know what they are.

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I would just take everything off that you are wondering about and go to lowes or something and see what screws onto the threads, then you will know what they are.

Gotcha, usually what I end up doing, but thought it would be easier to ask first haha. :thumbup2: I'll post up when I figure it all out for future reference. Maybe it will cool things down by increasing the amount of fuel that can return I have no idea. That check ball in that banjo bolt thing seems like it would be restrictive. Yall think the truck would run if I got rid of that overflow valve and went with a flow through fitting? I got a FASS system on the truck so it would probably flow enough.

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Gotcha, usually what I end up doing, but thought it would be easier to ask first haha. :thumbup2: I'll post up when I figure it all out for future reference. Maybe it will cool things down by increasing the amount of fuel that can return I have no idea. That check ball in that banjo bolt thing seems like it would be restrictive. Yall think the truck would run if I got rid of that overflow valve and went with a flow through fitting? I got a FASS system on the truck so it would probably flow enough.

You would be relying on the FASS to build up enough pressure to do anything. It might run, but I don't think it would run well. The pressure forces fuel into everything and the overflow allows the pump to build pressure. Just as an example, my p-pump basically works by changing the amount of time the fuel has to go into the plungers, thats basically what pushing down on the pedal does. Now when I had my old overflow, I could not get any black smoke, nothing. The pressure topped out around 22psi. It didn't go up or down, so the flow was there. The hole going into the plunger is only so big, so if it were designed to run on 22psi, it would have used a bigger hole. But it needs the pressure to force the fuel into the plunger, so when I got a new overflow and got back to 45psi, I now get smoke and everything is back to normal. I know the VP has an internal vane pump but I think you need pressure too in order to force the right amount into everything. :shrug:

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You would be relying on the FASS to build up enough pressure to do anything. It might run, but I don't think it would run well. The pressure forces fuel into everything and the overflow allows the pump to build pressure. Just as an example, my p-pump basically works by changing the amount of time the fuel has to go into the plungers, thats basically what pushing down on the pedal does. Now when I had my old overflow, I could not get any black smoke, nothing. The pressure topped out around 22psi. It didn't go up or down, so the flow was there. The hole going into the plunger is only so big, so if it were designed to run on 22psi, it would have used a bigger hole. But it needs the pressure to force the fuel into the plunger, so when I got a new overflow and got back to 45psi, I now get smoke and everything is back to normal. I know the VP has an internal vane pump but I think you need pressure too in order to force the right amount into everything. :shrug:

Genius. Ok so we'll leave that on there then! So now I guess I will need to find a round banjo fitting that goes around the overflow valve x 3/8" male barb so i can slide some 3/8 hose on it. Don't think lowes has it.

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I'll do that! Decided to go with some Duplicolor Engine Enamel, in bright red.

Got another question for you all...... I am not real familiar with different metric fitting sizes.... So here is my query. Put forth visually!

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If it was me I would leave the banjo head ther but cut the tubing back flare the end slighly (homemade barb) and use a good fuel grade hose. The problem is the fitting in the VP44 is a Overflow valve so that can't be replaced. The overflow valve is a regulator to keep the fuel pressure up like ISX mention...

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You are probably already going to look at this...but don't forget the KDP fix..How many miles are on this motor that it needs "freshening up"??And thanks for all the pic's ect, good write up so far...

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I would pull a main and rod cap down to inspect before waisting money and time on replacing main and rod bearings. I have seen ill maintained cummins with 700K miles and the mains and rod bearings still look like brand new. These engines are not known to wear out mains and rod bearings. Pull the center main cap as it will be the one to show signs of wear first if any will same with any inline engine. The most important bearing to replace with the pan off and having a manual tranny is the crankshaft thrust bearing.:thumbup2:

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