Head Bolts

[jlwelding]

Do I need to replace head bolts when replacing head? And can I leave turbo conected to down pipe and leave it all conected on boost boot side?

[smokeythedodge]

Do I need to replace head bolts when replacing head? And can I leave turbo conected to down pipe and leave it all conected on boost boot side?

Nah you aint gotta replace them unless they are stretched out but I have never seen any that bad. you can leave turbo and manifold on, the rest of that stuff takes minimal effort to remove. Kinda hard to do them 2 rusty bolts for the back of the turbo that go to the exhaust, but they will break free.

[SWATPARAMEDIC]

I just rebuilt my engine and used a pretty good amount of penetrating oil bolts and bought a set of curved wrenches for getting the back bolts for getting the turbo off the manifold and mad it actually pretty easy.

[jlwelding]

Turbo has been off not to long ago so I think it will unbolt pretty easy. Thats how I came up with the 2nd question. So I can reuse the head bolts, cool.

[balsip]

These are "torque to yield" head bolts so many owners buy new so as to not take a chance. ie. tighten to a torque then go part of a turn more. Compare length of all bolts to make sure none are longer on the thread to make sure there has been no tightening beyond yield. Push threads of two bolts against each other as if one was a thread gauge and check for any variation against a bright light if you can get my drift.

[Blueox01]

If i remember right the head gasket will come with a bolt stretch guide,there are three different lengths of bolts for the 24V,i called freightliner and cummins to see if they stocked the bolts,niether did and and had'nt sold any in a long time,to me that was a good indication that they are not replaced often.Wore me out going the the torque sequence 4 times.So far no problem/ leaks,of course that was only 230k ago.

[smokeythedodge]

These are "torque to yield" head bolts so many owners buy new so as to not take a chance. ie. tighten to a torque then go part of a turn more. Compare length of all bolts to make sure none are longer on the thread to make sure there has been no tightening beyond yield. Push threads of two bolts against each other as if one was a thread gauge and check for any variation against a bright light if you can get my drift.

Yeah you are right they are torque to yield, but the only way to stretch them is to torque them 200 lbs or something crazy. They are hard to ruin.... But it really depends on how YOU feel about your motor... lot of people just reuse them, and have no problems. New set of 26 bolts is cummins # 3927063. Run you 100 bucks!

12.9 is a stout bolt!!

--- Update to the previous post...

and if you happen to measure all your bolts and a few are stretched out, let me know I have about 208~210 spare head bolts, you pay ship ill mail you how ever many you need. Place i work, their policy is replace anything and everything so i snag the old stuff from the scrap bin i have got enough crap to build 5 motors probably.

[white01]

per quickserve cummins..which is a awesome site..head torque goes..57 ft.lbs....77 ft.lbs...recheck all studs at 77 ft.lbs..final torque is put your ratchet on there and go 90 degrees per stud then go to the next stud and do that til you do all the studs.hope this helps.

[Blueox01]

per quickserve cummins..which is a awesome site..head torque goes..57 ft.lbs....77 ft.lbs...recheck all studs at 77 ft.lbs..final torque is put your ratchet on there and go 90 degrees per stud then go to the next stud and do that til you do all the studs.hope this helps.

Like i said you have to go through the torque sequence 4 times.

[jlwelding]

What is the final torque? I saw 57 77 what are the last two? I maybe missing something here.

[smokeythedodge]

What is the final torque? I saw 57 77 what are the last two? I maybe missing something here.

white01 per quickserve cummins..which is a awesome site..head torque goes..57 ft.lbs....77 ft.lbs...recheck all studs at 77 ft.lbs..final torque is put your ratchet on there and go 90 degrees per stud then go to the next stud and do that til you do all the studs.hope this helps.

[Prowelder]

If they are a torque to yield bolt, I would replace them. I've had to redo head gaskets on various trucks(non Cummins) b/c someone reused the bolts and then one of broke. IMO, $100 is cheap insurance or just go with head studs if you plan to put some more goodies on it later!

[jlwelding]

If they are a torque to yield bolt, I would replace them. I've had to redo head gaskets on various trucks(non Cummins) b/c someone reused the bolts and then one of broke. IMO, $100 is cheap insurance or just go with head studs if you plan to put some more goodies on it later!

From what I have dug up they are not torque to yield, and a lot of people reuse them. As far as more horsey's I am done with this truck, its a work truck. I am going to look for a 93

[Prowelder]

From what I have dug up they are not torque to yield, and a lot of people reuse them. As far as more horsey's I am done with this truck, its a work truck. I am going to look for a 93

Cool deal, I wasn't really sure. I would like to have a 1st gen, their looks have really grown on me!

[jlwelding]

Man I saw a 93 on another fourm and it had flat bed with new paint and stacks. Really nice

[Prowelder]

Man I saw a 93 on another fourm and it had flat bed with new paint and stacks. Really nice

Nice, I can do without the stacks though. Not really my style. I saw a nice 1st gen locally to me a while back. Blue regular cab with flatbed, 4wd and 5 speed. It wasn't too bad of shape, the fenders has a couple of dents. I wished I had the money for it. Like I really need another car/truck!!

[ISX]

I moved the gasser vs. diesel part to the general diesel section to keep this thread from completely going off topic http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2699-Gasser-vs.-Diesel