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Well mine was the OEM system that rotted out. First the tailpipe devoluped holes, then the back of the muffler failed so the tailpipe & muffler flange were not connected. I removed the disconnected tailpipe as it was thrashing the underside of the truck... fearing if it jammed against the pavement, it could really tear things up. Russ

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Hey flagman,Did the upgrade make a difference in performance or MPG? I bet it sounds cool! You prolly didn't even need to raise the truck to do the install. ;) DaveUsin' that backhoe this summer?

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I didn't notice any mileage difference between before & after... running with back of stock muffler rotted open... maybe I got used to the noise. Remember, no mods to my truck! A lot of soot under the truck. Helpful to lift body (clearance for loop over rear axle) but wheels sure don't need to come off ground. Backhoe is just sitting in my way... hasn't been started in some time. My MS doesn't like the heat... I need to get a buddy over so we can jump start it. Russ

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I have a 5" pipe and muffler on my 2000 CTD and that baby growls. B) ..I don't think I would be able to stand it with the muffler off!! On a side note I think my neighbors dog likes to hide in the pipe it's so big LOL LOL Randy

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Years ago, my buddy used to run straight pipes on his '57 Chevy 327. He got it inspected a few times by shoving 5# of steel wool up each pipe with a broom handle. It was nice & quiet, they never looked underneath. Of course, the first time he stood on it the steel wool came out the back in a ball of fire... Best not go back by that garage!Russ

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For any of you who hate the dreaded "drone" which comes along with removing the muffler and resonator, I think I've found a solution. Or at least a way to tolerate it after the fun wears off.I took a piece of steel (a T-post I found in the barn) and hose clamped it to the same section of exhaust which had the muffler/resonator. The T-post worked great because of its shape, allowing it to lay firmly on the exhaust pipe. With three big hose clamps I snugged it down tight to the exhaust pipe. The difference was noticeable right off the bat. Much less drone in the cab. The reasoning is the with out the muffler/resonator in place the exhaust pipe vibrates like a guitar string which give off a "drone" or resonating. By placing the added metal on the exhaust pipe, it removes most of that vibration. Works.

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Sorry guys, I forgot about this thread,The e-bay SS system had taken more work to install than I'd hoped. The section of pipe off the turbo was fine. The straight sections took some mount tweeking & trimming to get them to come out right. The over the axle section needed the mounts heated & tweeked to get it off the spare & off the spring. Still what counts is that it's done & it isn't going to rust out any time soon.It's definately louder than the stock system even sans tailpipe & hole in the back of the muffler where the tailpipe nipple went. It sounds good running empty but has a bark when under any load, even running empty. I have not run it with the trailer on yet but I'm sure it'll be loud. {This is not a quiet truck anyway... a lot of engine noise from the front. Removing the mouse habitat (hood insulation) could not have helped. My built 454 with headers, straight through glass packs & etc sounded good also but would drive you out of the cab with a trailer on! I ended up putting oversized truck mufflers back on that one. Russ

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I just noticed I haven't edited my signature with the upgrade of oversize SS exhaust... other than that, truck remains pure stock. As such, the overhead computer has always given right on mpg readings compared to hand calculated. The mpg sweet spot has proved to be 1900 rpm on this 4:10 geared truck. At 65 it's turning 2100 & mpgs drop off. The best mpgs I've gotten were 18.4-18.6 range. I cleared the overhead (previous ave 17.5) & been driving around yesterday & today. Admittedly a small sample of secondary roads & around town... mpg is swinging between 19.0-20.1 Yes, I was "Granny Driving" to get mpgs but that's how I usually drive unless there's a reason. The weather is cool and the rich warm up always hurts mpgs some... with the small sample, I can see the average fall off driving gently as CTD warms up. Once warmed up I can see the average climbing back up to a nicer neighborhood.This is the first time I thought to check it but I'm pretty confident that I actually am 1 mpg or better improved. Ya know how many times we see claims "improves mileage" but never see it. I think this one did. WOW!Russ

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We here in Cali will be missing out on the good stuff, can we say C.A.R.B.

There is ways around this problem... Sneaker series mufflers. Basically a straight pipe in a normal muffler can. I'm sure there is other toyz out there for the california crowd...

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We here in Cali will be missing out on the good stuff, can we say C.A.R.B.

I have A CAT also :(

Man your all screwed up arn't you... :confused: Well I'm sure if you did there has to be goodies for your truck and keeping it smog legal... Or the other way is to have 2 exhaust systems. Stock one for CARB inspections and the performance one for the rest of the year...

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Has anyone looked through one of these cats?I have always expected the are straight through, but would like to know for sure.

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The SS system I put on... one size larger from the turbo back... it came with a muffler. The muffler is straight through with just a few louvers in the pipe. But it is a "muffler" for those places that require one, and it's SS also so it will not rot out quickly. Being full diameter all the way to the tailpipe it is much less restrictive than stock where the tail pipe was 1/2" smaller diameter than the head pipe. It has plenty of bark...Russ

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Would you say a 4" is better or a 5" pipe? I like em loud. Dont bother me one bit. Right now I am running a 3" straight pipe. I want to upgrade but not sure if I want a 4" or 5" pipe. I do want to keep the drone down. What are the pros and cons on these 2 exhaust systems?

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4" is usually easy to install and fits with your spare tire... 5" I heard can be rather difficult to fit and some have had to remove there spare tire out from under the truck. Now as for noise... I've heard many stories... But I think the 5" is louder than 3" or 4"... IMHO...

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I really like the sound of my exhaust (4" turbo back, full length, straight through "muffler") running light... However, the new-to-us 30' camper has all the aerodynamics of a brick. Under load, the noise in the cab makes conversation impossible except by shouting. Shouting did no good because wifee was wearing ear plugs on the return trip. I'm going to have to quiet it some.

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I don't know if this the right place for this question, but I read in another thread that the turbo on a 24v has a small 9cm outlet and this could be replaced with a 12cm. a buddy of mine has a 96 12v which has a 12cm stock. He said that a 16cm is the ideal size anybody know the veracity of any of these statements?

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The HY35 Turbo has a 9cm2 exhaust housing... The HX35 Turbo has a 12cm2 ehaust housing... A 16cm2 exhaust housing would be a good upgrade for someone around 450-500 HP. It would bring down the EGT's. But upgrade to early and you'll have a laggy turbo and lots of smoke. Remember it takes fuel to spool a turbo.

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