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More 2 cycle oil stories

TexasDiesel
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Prowelder

Prowelder

Posted
Posted

Hey,Where are you guys buying the Valvoline????? Walmart doesn't carry it and at O'Reilly's I didn't see it!!! I haven't checked AutoZone or Napa... :confused: Like I always say: I doesn't matter what other people think until they start paying for your stuff!!!! :thumbsup Thanks,Winslow

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keydl

keydl

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Jesus! I cannot believe how clean that fuel filter is. Mine is always solid black, practically looks like someone rubbed grease all over it. Not sure why mine is so much dirtier.

I would treat for biologic at the min, service for water in the tank if the facilitys were avail. Black specks are the sign to use biocide and water is the growth medium. His filter looks normal, mine looks the same at 50k, my service period. The other reason to change? low power. keydl
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guesswho512

guesswho512

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the time i had a problem with algae was 18months ago.it was in my 100gal transfer tank. i let it sit for 6 months with only 5 gal. when i went to my usual part places, nobody had heard of that and had nothing for me(except PS). i made a trip to the napa distribution for OKC. they acted puzzled and after 1/2 of searching in the warehouse produced only one bottle and charge 30bucks for it. i guess it worked? maybe i just pumped it thru? gotta love fleetgaurds 3 micron filters.

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keydl

keydl

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For a semi parking with the tank out of level , down at the back, and suck/siphon the heel with a small tube into a clear container to see the part line between water and diesel.For a pickup the tank comes off and the gauge comes out to look in and remove the last wet from the tank. For convenience a dip tube installed to the bottom with small notches to scavenge the bottom of the heel will let you sample the bottom of the tank - the connected line needs to be capped when you are not sampling.The biocide is avail at marine supplies because the problem is much more common with boats. I get it from West Marine.The nurse tank needs treated, the stuff lives at the boundary water/oil and spreads with spoors. No water - no growth.keydl

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keydl

keydl

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We found the little bug in the JP-1 tanks in Vietnam, caused a few unsked landings. That is where the concept of excellent tank maint practices originated. Boats have the same problem. The same bugs did the cleanup from the Exxon Valdese, just ate the oil. They live at the part line and the dead bods are the problem, plugging filters. They also prove the presence of water that should be removed from the tank. Clean dry tanks do not have biologic growth - yet :)keydl

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cmns2500

cmns2500

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Started back usin two stroke cuz I was at wally worl and needed fuel.... She ain't cr quiet......but I hope to get a lil bit of mpg from it....

and, sho nuff, i've gained .5 mpg from the two stroke, new oil, and new stat and antifreeze, i'm happy.... B)
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  • 5 weeks later...
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Hmmm... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Depends on which one it is... One is nearly the same as 2 Cycle oil (lubricity formula) and the other (performance formula) was much lower. Now for mixing I never suggest mixing any products together... If you got the performance formula I would think about selling it... But the lubricity formula I would just use a directed.

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SnoFarmer

SnoFarmer

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I'll toss in $0.02

I know a diesel engine will run on a lot of stuff and everyone likes to run what they know.

But I think the 2cycel is not needed.

One reason is when you become a mpg watcher your going to start to drive differently and see better millage because of it.

Maybe this is an explanation for the gains in mpg?

like fueling 2 identical engines (as possible) give them both 1 gal, same rpm's and load, so we can see witch one would run longer?

I found this to be interesting.

* Lubricity is a measure of the fuel's ability to lubricate and protect the various parts of the engine's fuel injection system from wear.The processing required to reduce sulfur to 15 ppm also removes naturally-occurring lubricity agents in diesel fuel. To manage this change the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) adopted the lubricity specification defined in ASTM D975 for all diesel fuels and this standard went into effect January 1, 2005.

* The D975 specification is based on the High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR) test (D 6079) and requires a wear scar no larger than 520 microns.

Chevron Products: Mr. Gasoline Answers

15PPM ULSD with 1% bio has the same lubricity as 500PPM dino.

Most of us without even knowing it, already run a % of bio.

Maybe the 2cycel is not needed as bio will do the same job as lubricity is concerned.

BUT.... the your millage may start to suffer with higher %'s of bio

http://www.chevron.com/products/ourfuels/mrgas/?&aID=79&cID=16

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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SnoFarmer your right lubricity has no real role in MPG game...

But cetane levels do have a role. Higher the cetane level the lower the BTU content. Biodiesel tends to have a high cetane level were as petroluem diesel and 2 cycle oil have lower cetane level. Also 2 cycle oil tend to be a natural cetane reducer. As you reduce the cetane of the fuel the knock is reduced because the fuel burns slower. But excessive reduction of cetane and the MPG's start to fall.

Dark green - summer fuel / Light green -winterized diesel fuel (Idaho) - Point of reference UNLEADED is 125 BTU's.

Posted Image

But now lubricity game. If you got BioDiesel available in your area yes Bio is a better choice over petroluem ULSD. There is no need to mix 2 cycle oil with B2 or above fuels. Like here in Central Idaho no one sells BioDiesel at all. The closest BioDiesel station is about 180 miles away. But in any case the lubricity requirements for Bosch fuel systems is <400 HFRR...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30&stc=1&d=1259268355

So in this light there is some of us on the west coast that have limited to no Biodiesel in the state. :confused:

post-2-13869816217_thumb.jpg

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flagmanruss

flagmanruss

Posted
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You are right as a subtile differance in driving speed or technique affects mpg. If I have time & play light foot, it is noticeably better than when I need to be somewhere. Any boost to mpg is appreciated... but not why I run 2 cycle oil. Ultra Low Fr*ggin Sulpher Diesel did not exist when my truck was built & it was not designed for it. Mr EPA will not buy me a new VP44 if the ULSD craps mine out. IMHO, and that's all it is, adding 2 cycle oil to ULSD makes the most sense to keep my engine alive. While not tested for off-lable use in diesels, 2 cycle is designed to burn clean in far more demanding application... the spark ignition engine where a fouled plug is a dead cylinder. Russ

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ISX

ISX

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I can get B20 here locally and it is definitely a mileage dropper. I think it drops me to borderline 20mpg instead of the usual 23 I always seem to get. As for B20 vs. 2 stroke, I cannot tell any difference. I think I lose some power with the B20 though, but I would say it's negligible. So the only thing bio is good for, is lubricity. It drops mileage, costs MORE than regular diesel (here anyways) and you surely have a slim drop in power. So to keep your mpg's up, your pump happy, and you wallet full, 2 stroke is the way to go.

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capj

capj

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Posted

You are right as a subtile differance in driving speed or technique affects mpg. If I have time & play light foot, it is noticeably better than when I need to be somewhere. Any boost to mpg is appreciated... but not why I run 2 cycle oil. Ultra Low Fr*ggin Sulpher Diesel did not exist when my truck was built & it was not designed for it. Mr EPA will not buy me a new VP44 if the ULSD craps mine out. IMHO, and that's all it is, adding 2 cycle oil to ULSD makes the most sense to keep my engine alive. While not tested for off-lable use in diesels, 2 cycle is designed to burn clean in far more demanding application... the spark ignition engine where a fouled plug is a dead cylinder.

Russ

+1

I do it to reduce wear in the fuel system........ IP's are not cheap.

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