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What's with my cruise control?

volkswagon
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volkswagon

volkswagon

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My cruise started acting up a while ago. I would set it but it seemed like it wasn't working but if I hit accel a bunch of times it would start to hold. After a while it didn't work at all and when I had time to look at it I found a broken vac line. I fixed that and now I set it and it just pulls it to WOT:ahhh: Any ideas for me? And could someone explain how the thing works?

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ISX

ISX

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Well I took this thing apart and everything is clean as can be. No rust or corrosion so is there anything I should do besides just put it back together?

Lube it up with gun oil or anything light. Clean the orange seals real good. Bout all you can do.
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volkswagon

volkswagon

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Nothing like that. It was securely fastened and looked like new:shrug: I took it to town yesterday and found that if I would hit SET, then as it was accelerating I would hit DECEL a bunch of times I could get it to stabalize and hold a steady speed. But as soon as I had to cancel it the process started all over. This really bugs me because before the vaccum line broke it worked perfect but now that i fixed it I have this problem:mad: The line was broke for a few weeks before I got to fixing it so I thought maybe some corrosion had started in there somewhere but there was none when I took the module apart. I have all new vaccum lines under the hood too. I capped off the line going to the transfer case to check if there was a leak that way but it made no diff so I'm pretty sure there's no leaks.

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mr.mindless

mr.mindless

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Does anyone know a bench test procedure for the cruise module? I think my '97 controls are different than all 24v (94-97 have the buttons across the bottom of the wheel with no 'cancel', 98-up 2nd gens have the buttons on each side and no indicator light...) but the cruise module looks the same. It's not listed on RockAuto so I can't easily check applications.My cruise just started acting up on a long trip Friday night. The first symptom was that when I tapped the brakes, the cruise indicator light would go out and stay out - if I recall, the light shouldn't go out at all. Then the on/off button no longer did anything - it wouldn't turn back on. It would come back and work fine again after a key cycle, but if it was on and I hit the brakes it wouldn't come back. My brake lights work correctly.Then it finally failed. The indicator light still behaves the same way, but it won't do anything no matter how much I play with the buttons. vacuum line is connected.I have a broken fuel line to repair first, and a diesel soaked engine bay to wash up, but wondered if anyone knew the pinout on that connector. I fear an ECU issue, hoping it's just the cruise module though.

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ISX

ISX

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Mine started doing that a week ago. It just pretty well died. I took the module on the steering wheel apart and kicked it, did the same with the vacuum module, somehow everything works perfect now. Still has the accelerating issue sometimes. Not sure what was going on with it turning off like that.

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mr.mindless

mr.mindless

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I'll try the percussive maintenance routine. I haven't sworn at it or threatened its family yet either. Then there's the great fallback of take it apart and put it back together.I see there's some wiring diagrams for my truck posted, maybe I'll just have to pony up a couple bucks and rush along that trial period thing.

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MnTom

MnTom

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Hey Mr. Mindless, my cruise acted up too, and I replaced the switches on the wheel. Mine was somewhat different though. It would turn on and operate normally with the brake lights, but would not turn off. The switch replacement fixed it, maybe the same thing will work for you?

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  • 2 months later...
mr.mindless

mr.mindless

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I just swapped the module from a '99 Grand Cherokee into the housing in my Ram. Managed to do so with battery still installed without wasting more time than it would have taken to disconnect everything and pull the tray :thumb1:All the plungers moved smoothly. I tried to bench test it but didn't look at the pinout first and blew up the diode on the PCB :doh: Not a big deal though since the apply piston seemed to have a dead coil. I gave 12v both directions across where it's soldered to the board and it never moved. The other two moved many times before I blew it up too, so I'm pretty confident a bad coil on the apply piston was the root of my issue.

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Perrysburg Dodgeboy

Perrysburg Dodgeboy

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Just a heads up guys, those "orange things" are not seals they are insulators! The seals are the blue o-rings, add a light coating of vacuum grease to the o-ring and they will seal again. Just make sure you DO NOT get any on the orange insulators!If your case is cracked buy a tube of plastic repair and seal it from the outside. Try to mold it so it warps around the edges on the inside to make a air tight seal. I would scuff up the plastic inside and out to help it adhere better.Don

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2500ctd

2500ctd

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Well since on the subject of cruise control, what about where the cruise creates a dead pedal? I will have mine on and after a few miles the trucks appears to drop out of cruise. Just like hitting the cancl button. First time it did this I went to hit the gas pedal and it was on the floor. Scared me thought the vp just went. turn off cruise and the pedal comes back up, truck runs fine but has a code. cant remember which ome exactly. something about apps voltage not agreeing. I havent used cruise in a while. Havent had tinme to really get into it yet, and worried that one time I will end up with a dead pedal. When its working all the buttons work normally too. I might have to actually go out try it again. Cureently truck is just about out of fuel. Getting ready to drop the tank and order a DSV. Damn 1/4 tank issues are getting old after 6 yrs! :duh:

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