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Fuel Filter Bowl Leak


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My fuel filter bowl drain has a constant drip leak out of the drain valve. I have monkeyed with it but can't get it to stop. It was doing about one drip per second but now I have it down to about one drip every 10 seconds. It is still leaking straight on to the engine mount and there is a fuel sheen on everything on that side of the block, and the truck stinks like a diesel leak.Is this common at all? It seems that just the plastic valve for emptying the fuel bowl is what is leaking, or rather, won't close back up completely. Can I buy a new plastic valve or anything to fix this? Some O-ring in there to replace?Thanks in advance

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Dealer says it's part number 5015580AB for the whole plastic valve assembly, and is $32. I am going to unscrew the threaded part and see if I can find a little o-ring for the plunger end and see if that stops the leak.

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Dealer says it's part number 5015580AB for the whole plastic valve assembly, and is $32. I am going to unscrew the threaded part and see if I can find a little o-ring for the plunger end and see if that stops the leak.

After i posted i thought maybe call Frieghtliner/Cummins w/engine # they might have it.I get alot of parts from them,but at time i posted thought cummins/frieghtliner would'nt carry because not part of engine.:doh: Best bet would be Frieghtliner.Usually 1/5 the price of Dodge.
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I don't have a Freightliner dealer anywhere close. Does anybody know if I need a special kind of o-ring since it's going in a fuel system? Also, what about the drain line/hose out of the valve? Mine fell off a long time ago and I wouldn't mind running a couple of feet of it and securing at axle height. That way if it keeps dripping a drop every 10-15 seconds it won't be coating the engine compartment.

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I am having the same problem. Just noticed it a couple of days ago. I thought the leak was coimg from the banjo fitting below. I initially twisted the top nut that has ridges thinking that it was leaking from that point, which did not solve the problem. I pushed down handle and twisted the valve around till i found a spot where it would not leak. I noticed that it fixed it for now but i am also curious if it just needs a new o-ring. Have you had a chance to take apart and see? I would rather pay 1 dollar for half a dozen o-rings any day.

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No I noticed the leak after I changed my fuel filter about 1000 miles ago. Generally I make a mess and it takes a week for the diesel smell to evaporate, but it hung around too long and now I know why.I'll probably take it apart tonight and see what I find. I'm not too keen on buying the $32 assembly just for an o-ring. I wish I knew what kind of o-ring to buy so that I don't have to immobilize my one vehicle and then try to figure a way to the parts store to try to find a match. My other thought is that I wonder if it's really worth messing with. It's not a big enough leak to worry about the cost of wasted fuel, but it is making a mess. Luckily my engine bay is covered with old oil from the crank case vent and leaky transmission lines so I don't notice :lol:.I was thinking of just buying some new fuel line and running it down to axle level and just letting the thing drip for now until I have a better way to chase down the o-ring, or decide to buy the assembly.

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I don't have a Freightliner dealer anywhere close. Does anybody know if I need a special kind of o-ring since it's going in a fuel system? Also, what about the drain line/hose out of the valve? Mine fell off a long time ago and I wouldn't mind running a couple of feet of it and securing at axle height. That way if it keeps dripping a drop every 10-15 seconds it won't be coating the engine compartment.

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North Georgia.

I found a download for the factory service manual for 2001 Trucks here: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs/236110-factory-service-manual-for-2nd-gen-rams.html

We'll see if it has a schematic for that drain assembly. It's a big ol' file to download.

--- Update to the previous post...

Ok, the manual does not break down the drain valve in a schematic. I'll take it apart tonight and see about the o-ring. If that doesn't work I'll buy the whole assembly and replace. :banghead:

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Well, last night I got home after dark and got under the hood and unscrewed the threaded top of the the lever to pull out the plunger. I didn't realize beforehand that you have to pull the whole assembly off the filter bowl to get that one piece off. So, I fiddled with it and got it threaded back on and in place. I went and cranked the truck and watched for drips and didn't see any after watching for a full minute or so. :shrug:Maybe the o-ring wasn't seating or something, who knows. I'm going hunting this weekend so I'll be driving about 2.5-3hrs each way. I was thinking of spraying brake cleaner all over that side of the engine so that I would be able to see new drips if there are any.Anything to worry about with spraying brake cleaner on the block, fender, filter bowl, etc.?

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Well, last night I got home after dark and got under the hood and unscrewed the threaded top of the the lever to pull out the plunger. I didn't realize beforehand that you have to pull the whole assembly off the filter bowl to get that one piece off. So, I fiddled with it and got it threaded back on and in place. I went and cranked the truck and watched for drips and didn't see any after watching for a full minute or so. :shrug: Maybe the o-ring wasn't seating or something, who knows. I'm going hunting this weekend so I'll be driving about 2.5-3hrs each way. I was thinking of spraying brake cleaner all over that side of the engine so that I would be able to see new drips if there are any. Anything to worry about with spraying brake cleaner on the block, fender, filter bowl, etc.?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

neoprene o-rings for diesel is fine. and for the hose from the dealer for the drain ? they are expensive and you'll end up above the axle where it's to short and drip on everything each time you use it. they have to order and it's one size only. go to any store that sells clear plastic tubing, i believe 1/2" ID and get the length you want. it's cheaper and quicker.

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