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cummins2k

Making my bed removable again

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Ok here is the problem i have. The last owner of my truck installed or built, which i am not sure, a gooseneck hitch. IMO this thing is somewhat overbuilt but hey it works. When doing so he welded it to the frame, and to the bed sheet metal. So in other words the bed is not removable. I have flirted with the idea of removing the hitch all together but that is somewhat difficult at the moment with no access to air tools. Besides the hitch seems to have been used a lot and doesn't look like it ready to quit so why replace it with a something else that would require repairing or replacing the bed. Any way as i said earlier i have no access to air tools. I do have a fairly large assortment of hand tools, and quite a few power tools. I was thinking if i started a cut and finished it up with a reciprocating saw i could do it pretty quick. If i removed a little extra sheet metal i could just cap the sharp edge with a rubber grommet of sorts, if i could find one.

Any ideas where i could get a rubber grommet or similar material to cover the sharp edge of the sheet metal after its cut?

Also any reason to believe my methods of cutting this wouldn't work, or affect the function of the hitch at all?

Here is what i am dealing with:

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In the last picture you can see the tig weld running around the outside perimeter of the hitch, this is pretty much where i want to make the cut. I think i will take off an additional amount, but not much to install the rubber grommet to keep the gap to a minimum and cover the sharp edge.

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I think I'd keep that "D" ring in the bed. An excellent tie down. At my NAPA store they have plugs, but have not looked for one that size/shape. :2cents: Dave

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Like Dave Said I would keep the D ring too...But as for the over kill bed mounting I would cut the loose and carefully clean up ther excessive metal. But as for the metal welded to the frame I would leave alone. But The persons to talk to would be JL Welding he's a professional welder here on the site and would know exactly how to fix this... :smart

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I think you can find edging & cut to length... I've seen it used in campers & boats to cover a cut edge... just pushes on & locks. You might find it at jcwhitney. I had a piece left in the barn from my boatyard days but it was all grimy & it went to the dump.You could use corrigated wire loom with the lengthwise split, or take some vacume line & cut it lengthwise with a razor blade. My 79 Chevy C30 had a built in gooseneck. The fabricator came up with a piece of steel the was a sung fit between the frame & the bed... when the bed was tightened back down. Bolted through both. The ball was drilled last from underneath & bolted through both as well. It did not move when someone wacked their toe on it! I know what I'm talking about!Russ

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I didn't want the bed liner but the dealer was going to charge me anyway since it was in the truck. When I mounted my Hidden Hitch, I bolted it to the frame with the center section in place... made a bushing to locate the exact center of the square hole... then drilled a pilot hole up from underneath. I dropped the center section & climbed in the bed & used the exact right size hole cutter to bore right through the bed liner & bed. I spotted & cut a square hole in the plastic fender liner Added a rubber inner tube flap so I can reach in from the drivers wheel well to release the ball.

Everything fit slick... & no toe stubbing...

Russ

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Well the ring is actually a handle. This hitch isn't raised like the B&W's, you pull the ring and one side lifts up, then reach in to pull the ball up. So it certainly has to stay. I really just want to cut the bed loose from it and trim it back so its removable again. I just don't want it to look shoddy or have any sharp edges. The metal welded to the frame is the base of the hitch. It is the hitches attachment point to the frame, rather than using bolts. I don't doubt the hitch, the previous owner used it for 200k+ miles and there is not one crack to be found so its obviously sturdy and his welding abilities were there, i just don't think it needs to be nor should be attached to the bed sheet metal. I would have had a much easier time with my AirDog install if it wasn't for this little bit of "over achievement".

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The small angle grinders have cutoff wheels that will take a 1/32 nd slot out. They don't work well for grinding to smooth up the weld. If the plate will cover the hole under the flattened ribs, I would cut the dents out where it was smacked down, clean the weld and slit the rib to lay down smooth so nothing catches on the edge. A little radius on the edge so that it is not sharp and some acrylic caulk to keep grain from leaking out and water from leaking in. It will let go at about 400 F or you can cut it.Is that really have 1/2 in plate brackets? Real overkill. :)keydl

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Yeah it really looks like something that belongs on a semi lol, but hey it works so why fix it. I have a reciprocating saw that probably would make short work out of it, i also have a few grinders but no angle grinder `:(

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What I would do is get some 1/8 inch 3/4 angle iron and trim it out.Cut your corners at 45 and weld it in. Take some cauking and fill in low spots,weld the high spots and grind down. If you wont my guess at cost, course depends on what part of the world your at.Your probaly looking at 30 to 45 min to trim out and weld. 50.00/ The grinding and making pretty you should do,cut cost. but if I did your looking at 100.00.

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