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Dave3500

Drain Plug Size

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Dave3500

Hi Guys,I've just been using an extra large cresent wrench to loosen & tighten my plug, & being very careful not to round off the corners. My sockets only go up to an inch or so in standard & 24mm in metric. The next time I go to the tool store I'd like to purchase a dedicated 6 point socket just for the plug.I also saw a magnet that attaches to the oil filter in one of my catalogs, do the work? I think most of the stuff getting in the oil is non-magnetic anyhow!Thanks,Dave

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Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... I hate to say it but my drain plug is way different then... I got a square dimple that fits 3/8" ratchet. No socket required. :confused: Why don't you consider a Frantz Filter then... The filter media is cheap being its toilet paper rolls... It works good... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/frantz-filter/frantz-filter.htm

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Dave3500

Hi M73M,Actually, I've been considering them. Benn watching the prices of a few on Ebay. Frantz, & some that claim to be similiar.Need to get my front suspension tightened up first. :thumbsup Maybe I'll look for another plug for my next oil change. Just did it about 500 miles ago.Thanks,Dave

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Dave3500

Say Mike,See what a 2002 will do for you. :thumbsup Just as long as life is not a drain. 8| I need to find a used bedliner as well while I'm at it. There was one in my truck before someone put in a fifth wheel hitch. Original owner had one in.As always, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Never go straight, always go forward, :D Dave

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dorkweed

You can get a "Fumoto Valve" also. You'll never have to take the plug out again. The valve requires 2 distinct movements to open it, so it's almost impossible for it to open accidentially.They magnet on the filter will only work for ferrous particles......aka "iron containing" particles. Personally, I wouldn't waste my $$$ on one. Get a MotorGuard or a Frantz TP bypass instead. Almost 62,000 miles without an oil change now!!!

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Mopar1973Man

You can get a "Fumoto Valve" also. You'll never have to take the plug out again. The valve requires 2 distinct movements to open it, so it's almost impossible for it to open accidentially. They magnet on the filter will only work for ferrous particles......aka "iron containing" particles. Personally, I wouldn't waste my $$$ on one. Get a MotorGuard or a Frantz TP bypass instead. Almost 62,000 miles without an oil change now!!!

I was just thinking of sticking a magnet in the Frantz Filter Can... But why... The Frantz Filter filters down to 1/10 of a micron and pulls out over 6 Ozs of water out of the oil. So if there is any kind of solid particles in the oil the Frantz Filter will catch it... :D Hmmm... I guess I can extend out my oil changes quite a bit too. As for you Dorkwed you exceeded good ol' AMSOil for changes... LOL >:)

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keydl

Buy a magnet? Theyare part of a lot of junk equipment. Want to see if they work? Take a rare earth magnet out and stick it on the side of the oil filter when you change oil, then cut the filter open the next time the oil is changed. The stuff under the magnet may or may not have been caught in the filter but when it is caught with the magnet it does not cause harm.Any bypass filter is better than none, the Frantz looks good to me. Just think of it as changing the oil at 1 qt an increment.keydl

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Dave3500

Keydl,Much agreed! I had a magnet off of an old 6x9 speaker that has been on the side of one of my heavy duty vices. I decided to stick it on the bottom of my oil pan. It's too big for my filter. I just need to remember to pull it off before I drain my oil next time. I kept it close to the drain plug so it all gets carried away with the next drain.I'm wondering if one would work on the pan of my auto tranny drain pan as well? :confused: Dave

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keydl

The magnet in the transmission pan collects sludge that needs to be wiped out with a rag. The stuff sticks by what appears to be magnatism. If you want to use a magnet on the oil pan I would leave it until the pan is removed. The magnetic stuff will stay sequestered if it is not in the 'sling zone' of the oil from the crankshaft. If the magnet is glued on - the sludge will still wipe out with the pan off.Only difference that I see in putting it on the filter is the convenience in cutting the filter open to see the amount. Small amount no problem, large increase - good probability of a cam destructing. After starting a new engine the first load of oil is simular to laundering the inside of the engine with hot oil, so everything that is solvent soluble is washed loose, after that things should be stable - the wear quantity will reduce for the breakin period and the stay the same during the reliable life until the wear clearances or some other factor is changed and the amount increases.An old engine can meet UOA numbers by changing the oil more often, The opposite of what most people doAn example is a Detroit 60 tested ( Blackstone Labs ) gave good #s to 19K miles between changes, so the change interval was 19k for about 600k when the UOA showed wear ( bull gear ), It now has 1,100k and the same UOA numbers come up at 17k. So the change is now 17k. Dino Rotella.I see the magnet as a cheap UOA, same as the magnet in the trans pan. If the pan on the trans has a dimple there was a washer magnet set on at the factory. Best deal for a trans filter is an external, full flow or bypass, they both work well. Full flow on the outlet cooling line, bypass at a 1/16 orifice on the line or govener plug.keydl

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cumminscanuck

Just to hijack this thread slightly :thumbsup Does anyone have any info on a magnetic oil pan heater. I've heard talk of a 110 volt unit but have never been able to find one :confused: It gets pretty cold up here in Canada 8|

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keydl

Jc whitney used to sell them, been several years that the have not been in the catalog - they age the oil unless it is below 0 and the new oils flow better than the old with a heater.keydl

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