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Sceems as if it does it louder when its cold.. Anyways whenever I push the clutch in makes a rattle noise. Asked around and someone told me my throw out bearing could be bad.. Thought Id ask on here see what you all thing... Next is 3rd gear is a pain in the ___ to get into using the clutch.. I can go thro all gears with out the clutch no problem but using the clutch seems as if it hesitates to get in there.. I got the south bend dual disk clutch so i thought maby that could cause it to be harder. Any thought would be appreciated

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the noise while pushing the clutch in does sound like a throw out bearing to me. that might have something to do with the gears being hard to engage though i would think you would have that problem in the other gears also. i dont really know anything about double disk clutches.

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What all is involved in replacing that bearing? What harm would it do driving the truck with that not working right? Anything?

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if it seizes or comes apart it is going to damage something in the clutch. maybe even the input shaft. there is just no telling when that might happen. you have to remove the tranny to get to it.

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Ah so best to get it fixed asap.. Would that bearing make and noise when under a load.. Sounds like plates rattleing when Im pullin a load and i get on fuel rattle a little while then goes away. Any ideas on that? Could it be the same bearing causeing all this?

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the only time that bearing is underload is when the clutch is depressed. when you depress the clutch it is that bearing that engages the pressure plate, pushes the springs in and takes the pressure of the clutch disc or discs in your case. it should not turn except when the pedal is pushed. i have never worked a double disc before so i dont know any thing about them. could be something loose there. the rattle your speaking of do you have it a low rpm and it goes away as the rpm comes up?

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Is there a dip stick or somthing to check it with or just a test bolt on the side of the trans you take out and fill till it come out?? havent had this tranny in the truck long so new to this. LOL

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should be a plug on the side of the tranny. my nv5600 has one on the driverside.

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once you get inside that tranny you are out of my league. ther are several guys here who would be alot better at answering those type of questions. i can replace one but i have never rebuilt one. that is a fair amount of work to remove, maybe we can get some one elses in put to help.

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Before I replaced the front and rear seals in the trans, I was losing fluid and it started to whine a little bit. I filled it back up and all was well, although 1st shifted a little hard for a few thousand miles. Hopefully it has enough fluid. GM and Chrysler stock the NV4500 special gear GL-4 oil with the correct additives for the carbon composite syncros. Its expensive. Cost me $80 for a couple bottles, but the GoodWrench lube was cheaper than Chrysler by about 15/bottle. I haven't used regular GL-4 oil, but I have been told that it will mess up your snycros. A guy on Pirate 4x4 took his apart and made regular brass syncros for his crawler, but said that it didn't shift quite as well if I recall correctly.

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ther are pros and cons about both. i got a manual because i had heard about problems with the autos. mine 6 speed lasted 9 and 1/2 years. theyquit making them 5 of 6 years ago, the nv's anyway. if i had taken better care of it i might have got a good bit more.

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as far as slipping this is lot better then my auto.. I got the whole swap done for a pretty good deal which may be why im experiencing problems:doh:

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The rattling noise you described sounds like broke clutch springs. Dont hold the clutch in at red lights, put it in nuetral. You will eventually scar up the input shaft and it will then break or lock up. :doh:

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My clutch springs broke into little pieces and eventually it just gave out while I was sitting at a stoplight, it lunged forward since the clutch was now engaged the whole time and it killed the engine. I had to drive the 20 miles home with the clutch engaged the whole time, starting it in 1st and syncing all the gears.

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If you dont need the dual disk, I would go with a southbend ofe. If I remember right I think I payed 650, but that was flywheel and all. All you need is 13" clutch and bearings, piolt and throw out.

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Ok Im gonna take it to a shop tommarrow morning and see what he thinks. Clutch was bran new when I had it installed so hard to believe spring bad already.

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all that depends on what turns out to be wrong. the throw out bearing is not very expensive. the pressure plate is probably not o bad. a rebult 5 speed is the worst. i have seen them for $1500 to $2000. just saw them while i was shopping for my 6 speed. Rockauto.com is a good place to look for the first two. i cant recomend any one for the tranny. some of the other guys here have bought them and possibly could recomend someone. any way you look at it the tranny has to come off to see what it is. if you plan on some one else doing the work, it wouldnt hurt to let them drive it and see what they think.

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went to shop today they said throw out bearing on its last leg and 3rd gear sycro is out.. So while we got it out of the truck im thinkin bout just rebuilding the whole thing same me from having to tare it apart again.. Or just get a reman one run round 1700 core charge of 500. Might be cheaper to just go that route by time I buy all the parts and pay shop guys 65 an hour probually be more then that.. What you all think?

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went to shop today they said throw out bearing on its last leg and 3rd gear sycro is out..

You gave a good description, then. I'm late to the party but that's exactly what I was going to tell you.

So while we got it out of the truck im thinkin bout just rebuilding the whole thing same me from having to tare it apart again..

Not a bad idea to at least go through it and check out the bearings. It's gotta get run through to change the synchros anyway. If you've got a good trans shop that's the route I'd run. Well, actually the route I'd run is to do it myself. Buddy changed the main shaft bearings in his 4500 in two nights.... Parts cost was under $100. I run in a rather DIY crowd, you might say...

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