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Jungle George

Hard to start "cold".

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The "Wait to start" indicator on the dash does not come on and the beast is hard to start first time. (The coldest it ever gets here is maybe 60 F at night). Apparently no intake heat happening. This just started happening after a mechanic had it to fix the power steering. Don't see any loose wires in the area. Any suggestions?

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Yeah something probably came loose or disconnected. I don't have a "toaster" (grid heater) in mine and when the temp is any where near 50_ degrees she wont fire and I have to leave it plugged in.

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at 60 degrees your grid heaters dont come on. i dont think they come on until below 50. we aregoing to need some more advice here.

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Yeah, I found out that each of the two heater relays has a dark blue wire coming from ignition, and one has an Orange /Blk wire and the other a Yellow/BLK I think coming from the ECM. Still can't find anything loose.

I should have been more specific in my search for advice. Bear with me this is my first Thread:

I just bought a 1999 Ram 2500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4 with the 24 valve Cummins engine. It has almost 200000 miles on it and has a few bugs to be ironed out. Also, I live in Costa Rica and parts for this beast are hard to come by or non-existent. Likewise competent mechanics with a computer programming background:).

The ignition switch has been abused (not by me!) and it is one of my suspects in the hunt for the Wait To Start light problem.

It being as warm as it is here, I don't know for sure if the heater is the problem, I just know that the Wait To Start light stopped showing up at the same time that it was hard to start.

Do I have to buy a computer and go to school to learn how to use it to find out what's going on??!!

--- Update to the previous post...

I found a guy who has a Snap On computer and read error codes. Got the following:

P1693 MIL Fault Companion Module

P0382 Intake Air Heater Relay #2 control

P0463 Fuel Sender Unit Volts too High (He said this came from the transmission)

Now I guess I need to figure out which relay is #2, what to do about it and read the Diagnostic Error Codes so graciously put out by our host.

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I tend to think you problem is much deeper than just a grid heater... Because right now I'm seeing moring temps as low as 48*F here in Idaho and I have no grid heater at all it completely disabled. Being the WTS light is not coming on I got feel ing its more of ECM issue...I will continue to leave my grid heater disabled till 32*F and then re-enable them again... :stuned:

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I agree with Mopar1973Man. When the WTS light doesnt come on then it can be a sign that somethings wrong with the ECM. But I'd still suggest that you give your grid heater system a look over just to be sure and so you dont unnecessarily replace the ECM.

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First of all, thanks for everyone's tips. I feel like the answer is just around the corner. The main hold up is that it's all new to me. First diesel vehicle, and more computers on this truck than I'm used to. I don't know exactly why I bought this truck, I was drawn to it despite it's obvious flaws. I've had it 2 1/2 months now.I had to return to work (135 miles from my house) and I brought the truck with me. Funny thing I noticed: if the front is slightly downhill it starts easier, sometimes. I didn't have any trouble with it (except this morning with the temp above 75 already, a little hard starting, the truck was level). Once it's started it's easy to start all day long if it doesn't sit for more than a couple of hours.I agree with you Michael that the heater shouldn't be an issue with these temperatures. I'm going to do what tests I can with my volt meter to find out what's going on with the relays anyway(Thanks for the diagrams, that helps a bunch! And thanks KATOOM for that link!). I need to study up on those 3 error codes that I got and see exactly what they mean.I just got done with some other (mechanical repairs) costing me $2000. When I first got it the front end was loose feeling: New bushings and tierod ends. Then when I was returning home from work last time I was here, the power steering (and guess what, brakes too!) went out 35 miles from my house: rebuild vacuum pump and power steering pump (3 weeks in the shop, no parts available, had to have the best machine shop in the country make me the two shafts)(Chrysler here would only sell me both pumps complete to the tune of $1600, and have to wait a month to get them). You'd think that would make me want to get rid of the thing, but no, for some reason I have to keep it and move on with it's latest issues......

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