Front Drive shaft Question on 4x4

[Rick C in Oakville]

Having taken out the front drive shaft to change the clutch, I noticed that there is a rubber cover over what looks like a joint in the front driveshaft. Is this suppose to slide to take up changes in the suspension movement? If so mine must be seized, as it feels like one solid drive shaft. Anyone unseize one of these before? I have it out as I need to change 1 seized Ujoint at the Cardan joint, so a good time to correct this if so.ThanksRick

[ISX]

I am not sure what you mean but I think you mean the part of the driveshaft that has splines. That part is definitely supposed to slide. I bet it does slide but takes a lot of force that only the truck can produce. It should slide in and out pretty easily though so if you can get it out (just pulls straight out, nothing is holding it) and grease it up it should be fine unless there is rust in there from not having any grease.

[dually]

How did the boot look ? Are the clamps still on ? Mine moves with a small amount of pushing. Once you get the boot off you will see splines you can put pb blaster or wd 40 into.

[cummins2k]

I don't believe that mine has a boot, though I would have to actually go look at it. I know they typically have a grease collar that fits on the shaft with the internal splines. This facilitates actually greasing the splines. While the drive shaft is telescoping it may be hard to move by hand. It just press fits over the shaft.On the other end of the shaft is the double cardan joint if you are replacing a frozen u-joint I would certainly recommend checking the constant velocity joint. Once the yoke is off there will be a ball, a seat, and a spring. Often times people do not realize the small hole in the yoke is meant for a grease needle. This ball ends up running dry and destroying the softer seat. If the damage isn't too bad then you can get a repair kit from an autoparts store that contains a ball, seat, and spring.

[Rick C in Oakville]

ISX, yes that is the part I am talking about. Boot is in excellent condition, I can only pull the boot back a little and can't see the splines. I don't have a tool to recrimp the boot clamp or I would remove it to expose it fully.Going to try some WD40 and may just need to get some lube down in it and let the suspension keep loosening it as it moves. Wasn't an issue before I took it out, but would like to correct it now.The rubber cover on the ball is torn, it moves freely at this joint, it's the U joint that attaches to the drive shaft that is seized. May see if I can get a replacement ball cover and just grease it up.

[Rick C in Oakville]

I've been soaking and hammering my front drive shaft for a couple of days and it isn't budging. What i need to know is which part has the splines that slides. I can't see any and I was soaking the part of the larger drive shaft under the rubber cover (to the right towards the double cardan) but tonight after looking at it again I think the spline is to the left to the front U joint.

Hope someone can shed somelight on this for me. Thanks Rick

[ISX]

The short piece to the left in the pic has the splines going into it. The long piece on the right has the splined shaft welded to it. You might try taking it to a machine shop if all else fails. If it were me I would get a strap, maybe even a small chain, and hook it around the inside of the ujoint and then to something solid, then do the same to the other side but put a come-along in there so you can ratchet the thing apart.

[Rick C in Oakville]

Thanks for the info on the splines, yeah if I don't get it this weekend looks like I'm off to a shop with a press.

[Rick C in Oakville]

Update to my post:

Wow when these are seized they are a bugger to free up! Talked to a few shops but most were recommending I find a good used unit. Tried that route but not too many in my area, found one from a 97 automatic, but it was longer by about 2 inches.

So with few options I decided to take another crack at it, took 2 hours of beating and heating to get 2 inches, than another 2 hours to get it fully off. My vice was too flimsy and trying to get a good hit on it horizontally was not very effective.

Hung it from the forks of a fork lift, gave me a chance at hitting it downward and let the WD40 soak in as I heated it. Man I'm glad thats over.

Thanks for all the previous help, now I just have to do the Cardan(cardone?) joint.

[ISX]

Brings new meaning to "slip fit" doesn't it Double cardan is just as fun, like a rubiks cube though.

[Rick C in Oakville]

Brings new meaning to "slip fit" doesn't it Double cardan is just as fun, like a rubiks cube though.

LOL, any tips on the Double Cardan replacement, which end to start with, what to avoid? Looks abit complicated for sure, but I have nothing to lose at this point.

[ISX]

I can't remember any tips, I've only done a couple and that was long ago.

[Mopar1973Man]

From what I can remember of doing mine long ago is the Double Cardan joint has a spring in the middle so don't forget that. Make sure to grease that center joint too.

[Rick C in Oakville]

I've got all the parts to rebuild it, and have it half apart. Hardest thing to find up here was the Dust seal for the ball and socket joint. I thought it would come with the ball and socket but that was wishful thinking:lmao:. Chrysler was absolutely useless, don't even have the parts of the Double cardan available even though the U joints are just standard issue type. Found a driveline repair company who had the seal, but must have burned $50 :spend:in fuel to find it.It's our Thanksgiving this weekend, so won't get a chance to assemble it, hopefully by next Saturday it will be installed.