Share your RV mods...

[joecool911]

I've had a plat cat on order for about 10 weeks. So don't expect to get one on the spur of the moment. I have the big one coming. I've downloaded the install info. Pretty easy to install. Have the place picked out too. Close to propane and power and accommodates the setback specs. Vents with 1.5" plumbing vent black PVC. Got a galvanized roof vent for it. Best to have him add accommodations for a condensation vent in the bottom of the case. Then run a small clear tube down through the floor. Not only do you vent the CO, but you vent the water vapor too. I had an Olympic in my old trailer. Everything had condensation. Walls, windows. I don't do RV parks much, so the lower amp draw will be a big plus. He claims you can run this heater for a week on one deep cycle battery. I'll be able to give you guys toasty review later this fall.

[AH64ID]

I wasn't very happy with the performance of the factory converter. It was a WFCO 8955 (same one as my old camper that I didn't like either, but th smaller camper didn't tax the batteries as hard). It never would go into boost mode, even with 20% batteries everything on in the camper. I did a little internet reading and found this to be common with the 8955. The most common upgrade is the Progressice Dynamics 4655. It is a 4 mode charger, with "intelli-wizard" and a manual override control to select float, normal, or boost mode. It's a plug and play upgrade for the 8955. It also happens to be the OEM converter in my dads Lance and it works very well. So I ordered one up. I installed it last night, which was quite easy. Even thou both converters are rated at 55 amps the PD is much larger, at least double, and has an additional cooling fan. The PD fit the WFCO box perfectly. My batteries were at 12.44v when I turned all the lights on and powered the converter. It instantly went into boost mode, yay!!!, and was charging at 14.5. This was at 9 last night, and at 1 am it was still in boost. By 9 this morning it dropped to normal charge at 13.6v. So my initial impression is great. The fourth stage is a desilfication stage. Every 21 hours on float it goes to 14.4v for 15 minutes to clean the plates. I am excited to get out camping and see how much longer the batteries last with a good charge, and how much quicker thu recharge on the generator as well. My next stage in 12v upgrades will be to relocate the batteries to the inside of the camper and replace them with sealed gel cell 6v's. This will put the batteries about 18" from the converter and distr panel, and they will stay warmer too. I hope to do this next winter.

[AH64ID]

I am very happy with how the new converter is working, but we only have one weekend on it so more to follow. I just ordered 20 of these. They were listed at $50 the other day so I did a best offer and they were reposted at $130 so what the heck. I read decent reviews on some RV sites so for the price I may as well give it a try.

[flagmanruss]

We ran into a problem on our return leg last year. I'm convinced it is/was a tongue weight issue. We have & are using a weight distributing hitch but we are at maximum. A Toy Hauler anticipates heavy "toys" stored in the bay. We just have my mobility scooter which weight 335#. It was gutted out & what has been added back is probably lighter than original. We towed just fine outbound. Return, was white knuckle all the way. What changed was we used about all the 100 gallons of water centered over the axles. We watered the farmer's field where we were with the grey water before we pulled out (50 gallons). So furthest forward is the 50 gallon black water tank. So the weight shift is 834# off the axles... not sure the weight of mixed yuck in the black water but the capacity is 50 gal. I'm just winging it but the magnitude of the problem is 400# on the tongue. As much as we hate to add weight, I'm planning to add bars of weight to the rear of the cargo bay. I was thinking to add 200# split 50/50 each side. I have done this in the past with a stock trailer (no WDHitch). I guess it's an experiment. If this works, I'd like to build in under floor storage to accept the ballast.We'll know more when we get back.

[AH64ID]

I run about 16-18% tongue weight on my TT and have no issues associated with it. How much do you think you are running?My 56 gallon water tank is fwd of the axles.

[flagmanruss]

The axles are roughly 2/3 the way back. I'm pretty sure I'm exceeding the WDH capability of 1,000. My mobility scooter only weighs 325#. There are tie downs for 3 ATVs. Even if 2 would be 1400# so there's the 1000 right there. The water shift is ~400#. We didn't go by a scale on the return home last trip. In fact an earlier trip on the NY Thruway we were able to dump tanks before the return from City of Rome... and it towed reasonably. So I'm back to the weight shift.

[AH64ID]

Could you have set the W/D up a notch too high? Is it easy to change, maybe you need a setting for with and without water. My camper isn't a toy hauler, but it has a higher %age of tongue weight than any of the toy haulers I have seen personally get weighed. I spent a bunch of last summer towing at about 20% tongue weight (1360/6680) until I realized how high it was and have since moved a few things for towing and think I am around 16-18%. I do have plans to reduce it further, but so far I haven't seen any drawbacks I am just above "norm". Like yours my axles are a long ways back, and there is a LOT of weight fwd of the axle (water is all fwd of the centerline between the fwd axle and hitch) and it's by far the most stable towing trailer I have owned. I am not saying it's not your issue, just pointing out that you should ensure it wasn't something else. Too little tongue weight seems to cause a lot more issues than too much.

[AH64ID]

I spent the weekend working on things around the house, but found time for 2 quick mods to the travel trailer. The first was easy, all I did was give the converter it's own AC breaker. There have been times over the years I want to shut the converter off, but they way it's wired from the factory that also shuts off half of the AC outlets. So I put an additional 15A breaker in the box, and now it is dedicated to the converter. I also got a fan installed behind the fridge. This took a little longer as I had to pull the fridge out to gain access to the space to mount the fan. The fan is located about 1/2 way between the condensing tubes and heat exchanger. The fan (Valtera Fridge Cool) is wired with 2 temperature switches. They are both on at 100° and off at 85°. There is one switch glued to the fan itself, and the other attaches to the burner tube. I attached the 12v wires to the existing fridge 12v power, and will eventually add a switch to the pos wire but for now it just uses the temp switches for operation. I ran the fridge for about an hour on Friday in 90° heat to verify it worked, and the fan kicked on. I climbed up on top if the camper and felt by the vent, that little fan moves a decent amount of air. The online results from multiple people that have done before/after testing is about a 10° drop on the upper shelf of the fridge in a day of 100-105° weather, and the fridge will cycle vs continuous operation and getting warm.

[flagmanruss]

John, Really interested in the refridge exhaust fan... I don't think mu fridge is coming out without cutting cabinets... but where there's a will there's a way. Maybe fans or different fans might be fitted elsewhere. Pictures would be a great help.

[AH64ID]

Do you have a non-standard fridge? Most just slide out into the interior of the trailer.

- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to take pictures during the install, but here are a couple. You can just barely see the fan looking up thru the removable panel.

[flagmanruss]

It's a pretty common Norcold gas.AC electric but the exterior seems to be part of the trailer. Trailer is 03 with salvage title... not a virgin. Most things I touch end up with destruction & complete replacement. I'll open the outside hatch & look up! It might be possible to use muffin (computer) fans.

[AH64ID]

Any pics of it? I can let you know if it looks like mine or not.

[AH64ID]

More of a restock than a mod...

[flagmanruss]

I'm kind of off the wall with this trailer... I didn't need it registered so I hadn't. When I tried, I found the title is screwed up. Too much to go into in a public forum. I have a photo copy of the face of a Calif Salvage title. The Montana Title was not completed. Registered to the previous owners Montana LLC. So I need to approach the Calif seller, if I can find him... try to get a Duplicate for the lost Salvage title.I'd had heartburn last 3 nights just thinking about it.

[AH64ID]

I'm kind of off the wall with this trailer... I didn't need it registered so I hadn't. When I tried, I found the title is screwed up. Too much to go into in a public forum. I have a photo copy of the face of a Calif Salvage title. The Montana Title was not completed. Registered to the previous owners Montana LLC. So I need to approach the Calif seller, if I can find him... try to get a Duplicate for the lost Salvage title. I'd had heartburn last 3 nights just thinking about it.

That doesn't sound like a good time! Registering a trailer should lead to camping, and better times.. not heart burn.

[AH64ID]

We only have a few trips for the year left, but I am going to mess with my hitch just a little. I have been wanting a little more tension on my equalizer bars, and the nose of the camper is a little low. The hitch head adjustments are 1.5", and that is too much. As it currently sits I am putting a little more air in the bags than I would like for a close to level stance. I have ordered a 1" rise 2 5/16" ball, this will do both of the things I am looking for. The nose will be brought up, and the air in the bags can be let out a little and give me the approx 3/4" higher camper nose that I am looking for. Moving the ball up, but not messing with the equalizer bars will also do a nice job increasing the tension and thus more weight off the rear and back to the front. The ball is in the mail, and I will report back in a few days.

[ADawg]

More of a restock than a mod...

Thats what my cough medicine cabinet looks like

I had to show my AA instructor this pic Kidding:thumbup2:

[AH64ID]

I got the ball in the mail today, and borrowed a 4' torque wrench and got it installed.

I didn't quite get 1" of lift out of it because the old ball had a 3/8" lift (who knew), so I netted 5/8" lift. Looking at the tailgate spoiler I would say 5/8" is acceptable. I still think I will get some additional tension on the bars.

I will hook it up tomorrow and see how it does.

[ADawg]

Hey AH64ID where did you get those flaps at?

[AH64ID]

They are Rock Tamers. I bought them locally, but many online places have them. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9VIRM/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=27257146597&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8180248361551087167&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5dsqi3xkl6_e