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Ok, so I got rid of my 24V with headaches, and apparently picked up a 12V with someone else's headaches.. So, out of the frying pan, into the fire.I've been working out some kinks on this '97. I test drove it last friday, and from what I recall, it seemed to be fine.. Unless I didn't notice it (my fault for lack of due-diligence.)At any rate, the issue (for this thread) is the transmission.Story goes: 2 owners ago, dude bought a Jasper trans, installed it, killed it, warrantied it, killed that one, warrantied it, killed it, then Jasper said "this is your last one."so he pulled the 5spd from this '97, installed the Jasper auto in it, and stuck the 5 speed into the truck that he was using to kill transmissions.However, he did a ____-poor job, and sold it to last owner, who killed the poorly/improperly incomplete install in short order. So he took it to a diesel trans guy in MD, who rebuilt the Jasper trans using triple disc TC, red clutches, kevlar bands, HD valve body, etc. (parts from HTS Diesel).Installed a PCM (to replace a non-existant one) and rewired everything, so to speak, or so the story goes.Fast forward to me.. ( I don't need any "I told you so" type stuff, because I know. Believe me, I know.. One word: Wife. )I drove it home last friday, and all seemed well, although I did notice it seemed to rev a little higher to get it moving.. Granted, I'm new to autos, as my '01 was a manual, and the '96 before that, was manual, so I'm somewhat rusty on how they perform/react. Thought maybe the TC had a little higher stall.Last night, my 7 y.o. daughter wanted to ride around the block in the new dually.. Wish granted. That's when I noticed that something wasn't quite right... No low/1st gear engagement. Neither with shifter in D, or if I manually drop it to L (1), nothing, nada.. it seems to stay in 2nd gear or so.. I will add that if in D, at a stop, let off the brake and the truck starts to creep forward.. give a little throttle and drop it into 2nd, it feels to almost 'drop' a gear, as the forward progress seems to be a more positive engagement, but still no 1st. Driving 30mph, slow prepare for a stop sign, drop lever to 2, it downshifts.. drop to 1 from like 10mph, no gear change/drop occurs.. it stays in 2nd..TC lockup and such works, and with the 4.10s, 60-65mph yeilds about 1900-2000rpm.The Coolant Temp Sensor circuit is fubar somewhere, as is the tach in the I/C. The tach does read through the scan gauge, however, so the Crank Position Sensor seems to be operational.I was told this trans has a 3/36 warranty, but getting that info is proving to be a tad on the tough side..Trans looks fresh, complete with gray paint, Jasper stickers, etc., so it was apparently rebuilt in the Jasper case.Help. I need to troubleshoot this as inexpensively as I can, for obvious reasons.

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Help. I need to troubleshoot this as inexpensively as I can, for obvious reasons.

Honestly rogan - apart from the normal stuff like drop pan and have a look at the apply lever and bands and fluid condition - I dont think you'll get far here. Just trying to keep it real and get you moving quickly. Id call Jasper. Id call a couple transmission companies - Revmax ask for Frank. Tell them your situation - hopefully someone will help you. I feel bad for you - but anything I or anyone else says is likely to be a wild guess and send you up a goosepath quick. I would drop the pan though. Beyond that have to look at the linkages - have you climbed under and fiddled with the linkage assembly also ? :banghead:
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Well that was short lived. Its doing it again this morning

From the Galaxy S3

- - - Updated - - -

2 Codes:

P1764 (M) Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low

The Governor Pressure Sensor input is below an

acceptable voltage level.

P1764 (M) Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low

Voltage less than .10 volts (4-speed auto. trans. only).

P0720 (M) Low Output SPD Sensor RPM,Above 15 MPH

The relationship between the Output Shaft Speed Sensor

and vehicle speed is not within acceptable limits.

P0720 (M) Low Output Spd Sensor RPM Above 15 mph

Output shaft speed is less than 60 rpm with vehicle speed

above 15 mph (4-speed auto. trans. only).

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If the VSS is bad or covered with shavings you will get similar symptoms. It would be worth a look at that particular piece. If it's covered in goop / shavings wipe them off and re-install. If the problem goes away good, if not a new one is fairly cheap. Might not fix it, but will rule out sensor as the culprit. Also the neutral safety / transmission range sensor could be faulty. Check this out http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/30-CR-Reliablity-Performance Although for me it was a no start issue, the spring loaded plunger rides against the shift pawl inside the transmission. A weak spring could be the culprit as well. Could also be residue / oil in the plug on the sensor too. Seems like the position of the plunger tells ECM what gear you are starting out in.

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Thanks, G. I'm trying to find a "picture layout" of what is where, on the 47RE. I'm not familiar with this trans, as it's been several years since I've had one. I do want to check ground and 5V+ reference at the trans solenoid assy. to ensure it's seeing both, as the above codes indicate this could be an issue. I'm at a total loss as to why it worked fine last friday, then not work Monday, not work Tuesday morning, work fine Tuesday afternoon, and again NOT work this morning..

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Thanks, G. I'm at a total loss as to why it worked fine last friday, then not work Monday, not work Tuesday morning, work fine Tuesday afternoon, and again NOT work this morning..

Mine was doing the same thing in between episodes, work for a day or so, then act up. My spring was weak and there was fluid in the connector. The switch is right behind where the shift cable hooks to the linkage on the trasmission. Right above the drivers side front corner of the transmission oil pan. VSS on my '98 1500 was in the tail shaft on the drivers side. I'd start there first as common sense dictates it should be in the tail shaft portion of the transmission.
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At lunch, I decided to go drive the truck around the building. Guess what? It shifted fine. This is so weird. Two days in a row, now, where it won't shift correctly the first drive of the day, then will once it's sat for a few hours. It could very-well be a coincidence, but it does seem odd. Monday, when it would throw the two codes, I could clear them and they would come right back. Today, I cleared them, and they did not return. We'll see how it acts when I leave work this evening...

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It started out this evening doing fine. 1/4 way home, I had to stop at the store.

Left truck running. Came out, no first gear. WTF?!?!

From the Galaxy S3

- - - Updated - - -

George,

I checked the plugs, etc. Everything was tight. I found the trans solenoid box, and a couple other 2-wire switches.. one is close to the linkages and solenoid controller on the left side of the trans.. the other is back close to where the trans and t-case mate, on the left side of the trans..

I'm gonna try to see what they are if I can find out.

there's also a sensor on the rear diff, 12 o'clock position (VSS?)

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It started out this evening doing fine. 1/4 way home, I had to stop at the store.

Left truck running. Came out, no first gear. WTF?!?!

From the Galaxy S3

- - - Updated - - -

George,

I checked the plugs, etc. Everything was tight. I found the trans solenoid box, and a couple other 2-wire switches.. one is close to the linkages and solenoid controller on the left side of the trans.. the other is back close to where the trans and t-case mate, on the left side of the trans..

I'm gonna try to see what they are if I can find out.

there's also a sensor on the rear diff, 12 o'clock position (VSS?)

The sensor on the diff is the wheel speed sensor, not VSS. The VSS is the one at the back of the case. The other can only be the neutral safety switch. which if it looks like this. Is correct for a '97 model year truck.

post-11640-13869819045_thumb.jpg

Check your steering column under the cover to see if the shifter runs through some type of switch / sensor. Somewhere in the shift linkage there has to be something that tells the transmission what gear you have selected ( just not familiar with enough to know when it went from mechanical to electrical ). If there is nothing with wires going to it that the linkage goes through, it's mechanical and on the inside of the transmission probably where your trouble is. The only other possiblility is that the linkage has a worn bushing in it somewhere.

Sorry I can't be more definitive.

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rear diff sensor = speed sensor (speedo, etc.)left-center sensor = NSSleft-center-top = Solenoid controllerleft-rear sensor = Output shaft sensorI replaced the OSS today, no change. I'll be ordering the governor solenoid and governor pressure sensor in the next few days. HOPEFULLY that will fix it, or at least, make it a lot better.

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Well I'll stand corrected. Everything I saw yesterday called the sensor on the rear axel a wheel speed sensor. And the VSS as being mounted on the trans mission case. Must have been looking at 1500 information. :banghead::bolt:

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Rogan, if you want straight answers to your questions just call Dave Goerend. http://www.goerend.com/ You can also go to his site and possibly get some of the info you need. Dave is very busy, so it may take him a little while to get back to you. Just to give you an idea of his service, my daughter was having an issue with her trans. and while I was on the road (3 hr drive one way) to go figure something out he called me on my cell phone and we had a 45 minute discussion as to what to do and how to get it going again.

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Well I'll stand corrected. Everything I saw yesterday called the sensor on the rear axel a wheel speed sensor. And the VSS as being mounted on the trans mission case. Must have been looking at 1500 information. :banghead::bolt:

Oh, I meant to add. the axle-mounted sensor IS a VSS, as you stated. However, the "OSS Sensor" (Output Shaft Speed) is on the transmission.
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