VP44 HELP in Nicholasville/LEX KY Area

[VectorG]

Well i think my VP just bit the dust, truck was running just fine i left it running went in a store came out 10 mins later truck wasn't running, It cranked right up idled fine but when i gave it throttle it was not having it exhaust was gurggly and sputtered alot, so i limped it home about 10 miles going maybe 20-30MPH it would clear for maybe 3-5 secs at a time then cut back out.

I got codes

P1693, P1689, P1688,P0252,P0251,P0232 which = VP44 bad.

I checked my fuel filter housing and it was full of fuel and it is still getting plenty of fuel so the Lift pump is good as far as i can tell, is it possible for it still work and the VP be crap? I also cracked the 1st and 3rd injector from the front and cranked the truck i got fuel but not much it sprayed ok but was foamyish. I checked the plugs on my ECM all tight and clean also checked all wires/plugs on the VP and Lift pump. I don't have a FP gauge installed truck is all stock still has the Void sticker on the VP With 285,XXX Miles

Sorry about the long post, I have the money to go get a new VP and lift pump but i'd prefer not to if not needed i hate wasting $$$, I am capable of doing the work myself id just like to have some experienced help, So if there is any one near by who is experienced with taking the VPs off and such or has a fuel pressure gauge and wouldnt mind giving me a hand id greatly appreciate it, I'd help with fuel/Beer your pick haha

Thanks in advance

[Mopar1973Man]

Well you VP44 is for sure gone...1st smoking gun - All the codes.2nd Smoking gun - The poor performance and lack of power.Now this might address the failed part by why did it fail? Did you actually test the fuel pressure?

[VectorG]

Well you VP44 is for sure gone...

1st smoking gun - All the codes.

2nd Smoking gun - The poor performance and lack of power.

Now this might address the failed part by why did it fail? Did you actually test the fuel pressure?

What i figured...

No i haven't yet im going to the store now to buy and FP Tester and a code scanner, Only thing i figure is the LP bit the dust to, it's a factory carter, IT was working fine pumping fuel i took the canister lid/filter out and bumped the key and it was pumping great, then about 10 mins later it wouldn't even come on nothing so unplugged the wire going to it/re-plugged it in and it started working again so it's working intermittently. Even when the LP was running i broke loose the Feed line from the LP to the VP and fuel just trickled out, so i took the line completely out and same thing not running just bumped. so i took it out and cranked the truck and it had a pretty good stream of fuel

I also unplugged the power plug for the VP and it all looked good no bad pins still had dielectric grease in it. Far as i can tell this is a factory setup with about 285K on it. checked all fuses and relays all good, so i guess i gotta shell out the $1600 for new fuel system?

- - - Updated - - -

Well i went and rented a FP Tester hooked it up to the shrachder valve and bumped the LP read zero, and it didn't come on until i unplugged/plugged in the power plug on bottom of it mine is block mounted. Once i got it going i cranked the truck and the gauge still read zero didn't budge the whole time.... So last thing i wanna ask is, Is it possible for there to be an electrical issues some where that could cause the LP to act like it is or is that the for sure way of knowing i gotta drop money on a new set up? thanks

[fire176969]

What i figured...

No i haven't yet im going to the store now to buy and FP Tester and a code scanner, Only thing i figure is the LP bit the dust to, it's a factory carter, IT was working fine pumping fuel i took the canister lid/filter out and bumped the key and it was pumping great, then about 10 mins later it wouldn't even come on nothing so unplugged the wire going to it/re-plugged it in and it started working again so it's working intermittently. Even when the LP was running i broke loose the Feed line from the LP to the VP and fuel just trickled out, so i took the line completely out and same thing not running just bumped. so i took it out and cranked the truck and it had a pretty good stream of fuel

I also unplugged the power plug for the VP and it all looked good no bad pins still had dielectric grease in it. Far as i can tell this is a factory setup with about 285K on it. checked all fuses and relays all good, so i guess i gotta shell out the $1600 for new fuel system?

- - - Updated - - -

Well i went and rented a FP Tester hooked it up to the shrachder valve and bumped the LP read zero, and it didn't come on until i unplugged/plugged in the power plug on bottom of it mine is block mounted. Once i got it going i cranked the truck and the gauge still read zero didn't budge the whole time.... So last thing i wanna ask is, Is it possible for there to be an electrical issues some where that could cause the LP to act like it is or is that the for sure way of knowing i gotta drop money on a new set up? thanks

If the wires were supported going into the stock lift pump like mine werewhen I bought the truck (meaning they weren't at all) it is possible the wires going into the lift pump are broken inside the insulation causing them to make and break their connection with vibration. When you unplug and plug the pump back in it could be letting the wires touch for a little bit then break connection shortly after. I bought mine with 47,000 miles on it because the lift pump failed and killed the VP. Your best bet is to put a Fass/Air Dog on when replacing the VP and install a fuel pressure gauge while you are doing it so you can monitor your pressure to keep from prematurely killing your new VP.

- - - Updated - - -

What i figured...

No i haven't yet im going to the store now to buy and FP Tester and a code scanner, Only thing i figure is the LP bit the dust to, it's a factory carter, IT was working fine pumping fuel i took the canister lid/filter out and bumped the key and it was pumping great, then about 10 mins later it wouldn't even come on nothing so unplugged the wire going to it/re-plugged it in and it started working again so it's working intermittently. Even when the LP was running i broke loose the Feed line from the LP to the VP and fuel just trickled out, so i took the line completely out and same thing not running just bumped. so i took it out and cranked the truck and it had a pretty good stream of fuel

I also unplugged the power plug for the VP and it all looked good no bad pins still had dielectric grease in it. Far as i can tell this is a factory setup with about 285K on it. checked all fuses and relays all good, so i guess i gotta shell out the $1600 for new fuel system?

- - - Updated - - -

Well i went and rented a FP Tester hooked it up to the shrachder valve and bumped the LP read zero, and it didn't come on until i unplugged/plugged in the power plug on bottom of it mine is block mounted. Once i got it going i cranked the truck and the gauge still read zero didn't budge the whole time.... So last thing i wanna ask is, Is it possible for there to be an electrical issues some where that could cause the LP to act like it is or is that the for sure way of knowing i gotta drop money on a new set up? thanks

If the wires were supported going into the stock lift pump like mine werewhen I bought the truck (meaning they weren't at all) it is possible the wires going into the lift pump are broken inside the insulation causing them to make and break their connection with vibration. When you unplug and plug the pump back in it could be letting the wires touch for a little bit then break connection shortly after. I bought mine with 47,000 miles on it because the lift pump failed and killed the VP. Your best bet is to put a Fass/Air Dog on when replacing the VP and install a fuel pressure gauge while you are doing it so you can monitor your pressure to keep from prematurely killing your new VP.

[VectorG]

If the wires were supported going into the stock lift pump like mine werewhen I bought the truck (meaning they weren't at all) it is possible the wires going into the lift pump are broken inside the insulation causing them to make and break their connection with vibration. When you unplug and plug the pump back in it could be letting the wires touch for a little bit then break connection shortly after. I bought mine with 47,000 miles on it because the lift pump failed and killed the VP. Your best bet is to put a Fass/Air Dog on when replacing the VP and install a fuel pressure gauge while you are doing it so you can monitor your pressure to keep from prematurely killing your new VP.

- - - Updated - - -

Well i inspected my wires to the best i could see all looked well, Far as i can tell im gonna have to go by Throughbred diesel tomorrow and see if they have a VP and Airdog in stock... Spend the money. Now i gotta find sum one to give me a hand with it

[diesel4life]

You probably already know this but your lift pump will only kick on AFTER you bump the ignition. Just turning the key to on will not turn the lp on. But the fact that its reading 0 p.s.i. once you get it to kick is suspect for a new lift pump, esp if you are investing in a new v.p. As far as help goes, not sure who is in your area but if you cant find anybody blue chip diesel has an excellent website. Hes got a very detailed yet simple write up for swapping out your pump. Hes a great guy to talk to if your having any problems with your 2nd gen truck. If you buy your pump through him, he gives you 2 weeks (I think) to get your core back to him before he charges you. And hell let you use the gear puller you will need for free. You simply send it back with your core when your finished. Good luck.

[flagmanruss]

My stock lift pump lost power from a bad connection on the ground side a few inches from the neg battery connection. Clean all your battery & other secondary connections. My mechanic got it running on the stock pump... I clipped the pigtail off the OEM pump & spliced in into the AirDog Harness for the new AD150 I had installed. I was lucky... perhaps because I run the 2 cycle oil to lub my VP44... my VP44 survived.

[VectorG]

You probably already know this but your lift pump will only kick on AFTER you bump the ignition. Just turning the key to on will not turn the lp on. But the fact that its reading 0 p.s.i. once you get it to kick is suspect for a new lift pump, esp if you are investing in a new v.p. As far as help goes, not sure who is in your area but if you cant find anybody blue chip diesel has an excellent website. Hes got a very detailed yet simple write up for swapping out your pump. Hes a great guy to talk to if your having any problems with your 2nd gen truck. If you buy your pump through him, he gives you 2 weeks (I think) to get your core back to him before he charges you. And hell let you use the gear puller you will need for free. You simply send it back with your core when your finished. Good luck.

I totally forgot about Blue chip, i was looking locally so i could get the pump/lp ASAP and with out crazy shipping charges, Thanks for reminding me im gonna call them first thing in the morning before i go to Thoroughbred. Hopefully they have good prices i can't spend more than $1600 shipped with an airdog/fass LP

My stock lift pump lost power from a bad connection on the ground side a few inches from the neg battery connection. Clean all your battery & other secondary connections. My mechanic got it running on the stock pump... I clipped the pigtail off the OEM pump & spliced in into the AirDog Harness for the new AD150 I had installed. I was lucky... perhaps because I run the 2 cycle oil to lub my VP44... my VP44 survived.

I'll re-check all my connections again tomorrow all looked good today. one thing i noticed was that in the last few days the truck wouldn't crank first try like normal it took any wheres from 3-5 to 10+ tries before it cranked it would just click. then some times id crank 10+times in a row and start right up i checked all connections on starter/batteries all tight and no corrosion. i don't see how this would be related to a dead VP/LP though? and i've ran 2 cycle every tank since ive had it FEBRUARY and about 10k miles.

[diesel4life]

I dont think youll be able to get one through chip for that price, unless you buy one with a used computer. I could be wrong, its been a while since i was on his site and honestly I havent looked at prices since I bought mine. Wherever you go, keep in mind that the cheaper pumps will most likely be offered with a used computer. In my mind, its a complete waste of money to spend over a thousand dollars and still settle for a pump with a used computer. Case in point my friend purchased one (rebuilt v.p. with used computer) about a month after I bought mine. He rediculed me for spending over $1600 on mine through Chip while he went through another site (I wont say which) and got one for just over a grand. They sold him on the pump stating "our used computers go through stringent tests and I would put them up against a new one any day." Well he didnt even get 5000 miles on his rig and the computer went south. Thankfully it was still under its short lived warranty (barely) and he got it replaced. But its another pump with another used computer, who knows how long it will last? I wouldnt want that in the back of my mind everytime I left town, thats for sure. The computer is where nearly all the issues with the v.p. are. Its well worth the extra few hundred bucks to upgrade to the new computer, at least in my opinion. Happy shopping!

[VectorG]

I dont think youll be able to get one through chip for that price, unless you buy one with a used computer. I could be wrong, its been a while since i was on his site and honestly I havent looked at prices since I bought mine. Wherever you go, keep in mind that the cheaper pumps will most likely be offered with a used computer. In my mind, its a complete waste of money to spend over a thousand dollars and still settle for a pump with a used computer. Case in point my friend purchased one (rebuilt v.p. with used computer) about a month after I bought mine. He rediculed me for spending over $1600 on mine through Chip while he went through another site (I wont say which) and got one for just over a grand. They sold him on the pump stating "our used computers go through stringent tests and I would put them up against a new one any day." Well he didnt even get 5000 miles on his rig and the computer went south. Thankfully it was still under its short lived warranty (barely) and he got it replaced. But its another pump with another used computer, who knows how long it will last? I wouldnt want that in the back of my mind everytime I left town, thats for sure. The computer is where nearly all the issues with the v.p. are. Its well worth the extra few hundred bucks to upgrade to the new computer, at least in my opinion. Happy shopping!

Yea i checked out the site and read that didn't like that. I cant afford the better one at the current time while buying an airdog 150 i wanna only do this once. I was looking at Dieselautopower and they have one for 1G with taxes, and it states all new Electronics and newest upgrades im gonna call in the morning and verify the Computer if all checks out i'll order one from there, I also got a line on an old school Airdog150 with the JIC Fittings Brand new bought 3 years ago but never used hope i can get a good deal on that save some more $$ Thanks for the response and Tips i'm hoping it goes well

[VectorG]

Well i just bought an Old school AD150 with the JIC fittings NEW off a member on CF will be here by thurs, im gonna install that and see if it helps fixes the issues, I think there still might be some life left in my VP, My LP wont even come on now but the truck will still crank and drive just like crap so it's pulling some fuel out.

[flagmanruss]

Well for gosh sakes, stop driving it until you can get FP back up! Save that VP44. Just remember with the old style AD... both suction & return must be either in or out of basket... or basket must be opened up. (The stock basket will not flow 150.) If you don't do this, under certain conditions you can draw air with 1/4 fuel left in tank. The majority of these engines does not "use" 150, with the excess being returned to the tank... therefore the requirement that the pickup & return be in the same part of the fuel tank.

[VectorG]

Well for gosh sakes, stop driving it until you can get FP back up! Save that VP44. Just remember with the old style AD... both suction & return must be either in or out of basket... or basket must be opened up. (The stock basket will not flow 150.) If you don't do this, under certain conditions you can draw air with 1/4 fuel left in tank. The majority of these engines does not "use" 150, with the excess being returned to the tank... therefore the requirement that the pickup & return be in the same part of the fuel tank.

HAHA i just moved it out of my DW to the street, the GF didn't like it taking up space... I defiantly don't wanna pay for a new VP if i dont have to, at least limp this one a lil further I saw on a video from Throughbred diesel and it showed them drilling the pump holder in the fuel tank out and removing the pump if said truck has one. which mine shouldn't mine is block mounted. This is what you're referring to as the "Basket" correct? if so I'm planning on doing the drilling holes in it and running it all inside on a side note i have a guy wanting to trade his 12 valve almost identical to mine....

[flagmanruss]

My 01.5 had the block mounted lift pump & pickup in the basket in the tank. The basket has strainers which limit the flow but also keep crud out of the pickup. A lot of guys just swiss cheese the basket. An alternative is bith the pickup & return outside the basket. You can't just trasj the assembly as it includes the fuel sender. I hear some mod the unit out of a Jeep instead.

[VectorG]

Well instead of cutting the basket or doing the straw i decided to get a Hellmans Sump Pump got a sweet deal on one shipped so i figured be easier/cleaner to install it instead, Should also be easier on my AD150 as well. Just waiting on parts now should have it all by Tues and then the fun begins.... Thanks again for the helpful replies

[fire176969]

Well instead of cutting the basket or doing the straw i decided to get a Hellmans Sump Pump got a sweet deal on one shipped so i figured be easier/cleaner to install it instead, Should also be easier on my AD150 as well. Just waiting on parts now should have it all by Tues and then the fun begins.... Thanks again for the helpful replies

I put my drawstraw into the basket along with the return and kept the bottom of the basket intact and have had no issues so far. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[flagmanruss]

I put my drawstraw into the basket along with the return and kept the bottom of the basket intact and have had no issues so far.

This is how mine is. So long as straw & return are both in the basket, it's fine.

[VectorG]

Well i was gonna do that, but another reason i got this is so it'll be easier on the pump, better than sucking the fuel up, just kinda be an easy flow/pull on it. also where im at i got limited tolls and resources to to a tank drop and drilling. All my tools are still in FL.

[VectorG]

PARTS will be here Monday!

[VectorG]

Got the parts in today! I'm prolly gonna get it towed over to Throughbred Diesel and have them do the install, I don't have all the necessary tools to do it at the House.