Alright fellas, I need to put this issue at rest! I'm torn on what to pick for an exhaust brake! I have an auto so its not as cut and dry as it would be for someone with a manual.

If you guys would not mind, please use the poll. I'm trying to obviously keep the cost down, but when some have better features, technology, etc. it is worth paying a little extra.

Exhaust brakes themselves are not as an issue as is the controller for the transmission.

Was looking at the ATS coPilot as I was reading I could control the point at when the tranny would unlock. Therefore controlling how effective the EB would be at a slower speed..

If you have a suggestion of a different product, post up!

my vote goes to pacbrake, and as for a brake controller nothing beats a spring on the tv cable, and the gear selector.For years i used the O/D off button to take the truck out of OD to use the engine to brake, then downshifted to "2". my built auto however pulls hard even without the exhaust brake on it.I should add a billet flexplate and input should be added if you plan to use it to brake.

I will admit that Pac-Brake is my choice for you application but there is a few limitations in how low it will stay locked up and give function. From what I found out locally Pac-Brake only works in 3rd and 4th gears of a automatic. So now it would require some valve body mods and such to get 2nd gear to lock up.As for a manual I would gladly do a Jacobs Brake OEM exhaust brake again. When you can use all the way to 1st gear its awesome.

Subscribed.

Why the need for an exhaust brake? How will it be used and what are you trying to slow down?If there is a true need for one like towing heavy every day of the week on long grades then go with a controller along with the EB of your choice. You show a tow/haul VB in your sig what does it consist of? Possible it is already capable of TC loc down to 2nd gear.Personally I like BD's systems.

my vote goes to pacbrake, and as for a brake controller nothing beats a spring on the tv cable, and the gear selector. For years i used the O/D off button to take the truck out of OD to use the engine to brake, then downshifted to "2". my built auto however pulls hard even without the exhaust brake on it. I should add a billet flexplate and input should be added if you plan to use it to brake.

Elaborate on this spring on a tv cable thing and the gear selector? I also stated in another thread that pacbrake never told me it was necessary to have billet in the tranny to use their EB. Not to say it would be a bad idea, but I don't have the money to throw at it again like that for the moment. Hope I don't regret it...

I will admit that Pac-Brake is my choice for you application but there is a few limitations in how low it will stay locked up and give function. From what I found out locally Pac-Brake only works in 3rd and 4th gears of a automatic. So now it would require some valve body mods and such to get 2nd gear to lock up. As for a manual I would gladly do a Jacobs Brake OEM exhaust brake again. When you can use all the way to 1st gear its awesome.

I keep leaning towards pac-brake but man, the vacuum setup is so tempting. Less crap to put on the truck, it seems. I have tossed the idea around to convert the truck to a manual, but the wife would kill me...

Why the need for an exhaust brake? How will it be used and what are you trying to slow down? If there is a true need for one like towing heavy every day of the week on long grades then go with a controller along with the EB of your choice. You show a tow/haul VB in your sig what does it consist of? Possible it is already capable of TC loc down to 2nd gear. Personally I like BD's systems.

I plan on getting a trailer, either a travel trailer or 5th wheel for work. I live in the PNW and we do have mountains and grades, etc. I would prefer to have one as I do not want to have to rely on just the brakes and gearing on the truck. The more braking the better! I'm not sure exactly what the tow valve body has entailed in it. The owner of the tranny shop told me he'd put one in for me as I told him that I had plans on towing/hauling with it. The most he told me is that will rev higher than OEM valve body. I'm not sure if it will allow 2nd gear lockup. It might have the capability and he just never mentioned it. I would like to know more about the ATS copilot as I read a little that it can help me attain the lower gear lockup, etc. But I dunno if its reliable or not and whether they fixed the problems I have read about?

A sample of EB power...:woot:Using a exhaust brake to come to a stop.

7% Grade.

Hauling 2+ Cord of firewood down a forestry road.

Elaborate on this spring on a tv cable thing and the gear selector? I also stated in another thread that pacbrake never told me it was necessary to have billet in the tranny to use their EB. Not to say it would be a bad idea, but I don't have the money to throw at it again like that for the moment. Hope I don't regret it...

There is a thread on CF about adding a spring to your TV cable in the apps housing, and by doing that it changes your shift points slightly but adds alot of line pressure during idle to allow for you to trans brake, this keep the clutches from slipping.

The concern is only for the flexplate and the input shaft, if either of those items (stock) break it will usually take out your pump, torque converter, and sometimes your case depending on what breaks.

I keep leaning towards pac-brake but man, the vacuum setup is so tempting. Less crap to put on the truck, it seems. I have tossed the idea around to convert the truck to a manual, but the wife would kill me...

The nice thing about the air set up is if you get a large enough compressor you can run tools and fill up tires and stuff, so unlike the vaccum set up you can also do your own repairs if necessary.

I plan on getting a trailer, either a travel trailer or 5th wheel for work. I live in the PNW and we do have mountains and grades, etc. I would prefer to have one as I do not want to have to rely on just the brakes and gearing on the truck. The more braking the better!

I'm not sure exactly what the tow valve body has entailed in it. The owner of the tranny shop told me he'd put one in for me as I told him that I had plans on towing/hauling with it.

The most he told me is that will rev higher than OEM valve body. I'm not sure if it will allow 2nd gear lockup. It might have the capability and he just never mentioned it.

depending on the set up of the kit he installed, but i would take the truck up for a spin and then downshift the trans by command and see how it shifts, you should know if it has lock up in second.

I would like to know more about the ATS copilot as I read a little that it can help me attain the lower gear lockup, etc. But I dunno if its reliable or not and whether they fixed the problems I have read about?

need to ask sasquash or jim that one.

answers are in blue as well

Would you mind providing me with the link on CF? I tried to search it up, but only came up with people asking questions on how to adjust it...I was quoted for the flexplate job from the same guy I got the transmission re-built from. I think it was like $600. Flexplate included or less if I provided.I dunno whats involved in replacing the input shaft though..As for 2nd gear shifting, I dunno what to feel for when doing it. I use my 2nd gear shift quit a bit when going on off-ramps, or going downhill. But I dunno if its locked up or not.

Would you mind providing me with the link on CF? I tried to search it up, but only came up with people asking questions on how to adjust it... I was quoted for the flexplate job from the same guy I got the transmission re-built from. I think it was like $600. Flexplate included or less if I provided. I dunno whats involved in replacing the input shaft though.. As for 2nd gear shifting, I dunno what to feel for when doing it. I use my 2nd gear shift quit a bit when going on off-ramps, or going downhill. But I dunno if its locked up or not.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/534021-stronger-pull-trans-cable-without-limited-throw.html a good billet flexplate should be 300-400 dollars by its self. the input shaft requires dissambly of the pump and forward clutch pack i believe.

Well, gave ATS a call and played 21 questions with a guy, "Allen". Seemed pretty cool. Real patient with my questions. Seems like the CoPilot would be a good thing to have for my exhaust brake and general towing as well. Asked if he thinks my tranny would be able to handle it and he said that I should be fine as long as I keep the settings up higher than 1 and 2.Although, $600 is hard to swallow...

SFI rated plate on eBay that's in a couple 700hp CR's is around $120. Billet input is around $600. You can drop tranny and install both yourself.Goerand has a video on the input install.

There are various SFI ratings. I am guessing they mean something specific regarding the flex plate strength or torque handling ability but I don't really know what???I have seen 29.1 and 29.3 and there may be others. How do you choose the right one when you want to add the EB and/or beef up the tranny?

There are various SFI ratings. I am guessing they mean something specific regarding the flex plate strength or torque handling ability but I don't really know what??? I have seen 29.1 and 29.3 and there may be others. How do you choose the right one when you want to add the EB and/or beef up the tranny?

Cant really apart from specs (which are racing specs) and people who use them. Thats why if I ever upgrade my flexplate it will be to one of these - as there are at least 2x ~700HP CR trucks using them for racing for 100's passes and no issues. 700 HP @ WOT using this product is enough testing" for me. How that changes with towing and EB Im not sure anyone could answer apart from theoretical. I'd spend money on the input shaft .... and have the VB modified to reduce the lockup harshness. I have that on my truck and running 450-500hp towing 3x disk , lots of WOT runs when not towing ...... 0 issues so far ........ but I dont have an EB.

my vote goes to pacbrake, and as for a brake controller nothing beats a spring on the tv cable, and the gear selector. For years i used the O/D off button to take the truck out of OD to use the engine to brake, then downshifted to "2". my built auto however pulls hard even without the exhaust brake on it. I should add a billet flexplate and input should be added if you plan to use it to brake.

So I did the spring deal and I dunno what to be looking for on how to have it adjusted at. I did a zip tie and I had it to where it would shift into 2nd at 20mph and 3rd at 30mph. Bought a spring like the guy said on CF and 1" seems too short. Wont shift into 2nd until like 25mph and 3rd until 35mph or so. Gonna stretch the spring more to make it shift sooner so it is not revving so high and later. What would be a good adjustment?

Cant really apart from specs (which are racing specs) and people who use them. Thats why if I ever upgrade my flexplate it will be to one of these - as there are at least 2x ~700HP CR trucks using them for racing for 100's passes and no issues. 700 HP @ WOT using this product is enough testing" for me. How that changes with towing and EB Im not sure anyone could answer apart from theoretical. I'd spend money on the input shaft .... and have the VB modified to reduce the lockup harshness. I have that on my truck and running 450-500hp towing 3x disk , lots of WOT runs when not towing ...... 0 issues so far ........ but I dont have an EB.

I believe the difference is how the torque reversals effect the plate. When your "throttling" the crankshaft goes through torque reversals to power the vehicle forward, when braking your taking the full weight of the truck+ trailer and then sending it backwards to the motor. kinda hard to explain but that plate is coupling the torque converter to the motor, if the TC is in lock up then the full weight of the load is now acting on the motor to stop it, the constant torque load IMO is what will do a flexplate in, but this is theory after all.

So I did the spring deal and I dunno what to be looking for on how to have it adjusted at. I did a zip tie and I had it to where it would shift into 2nd at 20mph and 3rd at 30mph. Bought a spring like the guy said on CF and 1" seems too short. Wont shift into 2nd until like 25mph and 3rd until 35mph or so. Gonna stretch the spring more to make it shift sooner so it is not revving so high and later. What would be a good adjustment?

from what i have gathered the spring adjustments biggest addition is line pressure to the clutches, my truck shifts out of first gear between 2,000-2,100, and second gear if i get into the throttle about 1/4-1/3 of the way should shift out at the same 2,000-2,100. IIRC of course I have to go shoot a video. You will notice it when decelerating since the truck will feel more aggressive when slowing down.