12 Valve boost increase or lack thereof..

[mr.mindless]

you might need a small bungee cord and a string of zip ties for shutdown like I've been rocking for near a year!

[Rogan]

you might need a small bungee cord and a string of zip ties for shutdown like I've been rocking for near a year!

Lol what?? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[mr.mindless]

my bracket failed roadside.

I hooked a tiny bungee cord from the shutdown arm over the brake res to something to pull up on it at all times. I strung a bunch of zip ties together on the other end of the arm to pull up on it to kill fuel.

I was going to change it out for a choke cable but didn't get around to picking one up.

I'm pretty sure hard starting was a side effect, I think some fuel drained back out of the pump since it was in "run" all the time when shut down. But it got me back on the road at full power around midnight in Ohio once.

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the best permanent fix is a temporary solution!

[Mopar1973Man]

Put a choke cable on it like old 2 1/2 ton military trucks. Pull the knob out to cut fuel.

[Rogan]

I'll choke-cable it if it turns out bad fss Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ISX]

I think you adjusted it too far. You cannot make it HIT the pump. If it HITS the pump then it is too close and probably not pulling up all the way before it hits. 0.125 play is fine, I said if it's within 0.2 its fine. Unscrew what you did and it sounds like the FSS is fine and I would go back to investigating the throttle cable. You must remember that the solenoid only pulls it up and eventually it is past the point where the rack reaches, once it is past that point then it is fine. If you tighten it so tight that it hits the pump, then how would you ever know if the solenoid is all the way up. The solenoid MUST travel all the way up! Got it Rogan?

[Rogan]

I got it. It doesn't even hold up with it not connected to the arm.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ISX]

check #9 fuse or pull the connector at the FSS and check for power.

[Rogan]

check #9 fuse or pull the connector at the FSS and check for power.

I've checked for power and ground. It has it all as needed. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ISX]

I don't see how it could just fail. Maybe the connector screwed up. Maybe you could jam a wire into the solenoid side for the ground and 12V for the smaller gauge wire and try it again. I'm pretty sure they don't fail that often, especially when you didn't do anything but unplug it.

[Rogan]

Readjusted fss and it started... drilled/tapped banjo and installed a fp gauge. Idle at 16-20, slow pulse. Needle valve any more closed and it won't read pressure. Pulses about once/2sec.Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ISX]

Readjusted fss and it started... drilled/tapped banjo and installed a fp gauge. Idle at 16-20, slow pulse. Needle valve any more closed and it won't read pressure. Pulses about once/2sec. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

So you're telling me, the FSS was dead, yet now you adjusted a nut and it fixes an electrical issue.. Anyhow, 16-20 is fine at idle its driving that matters. The pump runs off the cam so it pumps more with RPM. Driving it, it should never get under 25psi under a load. So 25-35 is fine, though you can be over 35 to supposedly 45-50psi and be fine as well. I made this vid for whatever reason one day but you can see what happens. Oh and I never get rid of the pulsations either, they are too slow to fix.

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsOZ4I8jWE8

[Rogan]

So you're telling me, the FSS was dead, yet now you adjusted a nut and it fixes an electrical issue..

Sorry, I was typing on my phone and it was cold as hell...

I took the fss off of the IP arm and tested the FSS by turning ignitionon and pushing the plunger up. It held.

So I adjusted it down some, reinstalled everything and it worked like it's supposed to again..

I'm not ignorant, I'm just working on something I hadn't fooled with before. And with everything else I've been dealing with, on this truck, a coincedental failure of the FSS would've been just par for the course.

At any rate, I didn't get enough line to get the gauge into the cab, so testing the FP under load will have to wait until Monday..

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Ok, some things happened today..

I went over to my buddy Jeremy's today (Disturbed Diesel Perfomance)

His pullin' truck:

His DD/tow rig:

He used his MODIS to pull some info from my PCM for me. We were talking about my truck, lack of power, lack of boost, etc..

He jumped right on it and started looking it over. Found out that the adjustable rod from the cable linkage to the back of the pump was wrong as I was only getting about low-20psi boost and truck was a pig..

He adjusted that rod and all I can say is HOLY _ _ _ _!! First punch out of the gate and I annihilated the 35psi boost gauge, it rolled coal and hazed the hell out of the DRWs!

The truck flat-out became a totally different animal! A Beast!

...now, to fix the trans issues and I be a happy feller..!

[Rogan]

On the fuel-pressure query from ISX, I've since moved the pseudo Fuel Pressure gauge (a re-purposed 35psi boost/vac AutoMeter gauge) to the interior so that I can monitor the pressure changes.For the majority, it stays in the 14-20psi range, given various conditions.. I've seen it dip down to like 10-12psi a couple times, and this was not under heavy loads; just randomly does it.

[ISX]

On the fuel-pressure query from ISX, I've since moved the pseudo Fuel Pressure gauge (a re-purposed 35psi boost/vac AutoMeter gauge) to the interior so that I can monitor the pressure changes. For the majority, it stays in the 14-20psi range, given various conditions.. I've seen it dip down to like 10-12psi a couple times, and this was not under heavy loads; just randomly does it.

Yeah that is crap. Put the gauge in the engine compartment again and get something to clamp off the return line to make sure it's not a bad (i know its new) overflow valve. You don't clamp it fully off, just slowly apply pressure to the line and the fuel pressure should go up. Do that until it gets to at least 35psi. Don't just clamp it as a good lift pump will build indefinite pressure until something breaks.. It will get there even idling so you don't have to rev it up or anything. If you can clamp it completely off, then it's not the OFV, its the lift pump. You might check on the prefilter first (if you hadn't already) as who knows what it might look like. It's simple physics. The lift pump makes pressure and excess pressure is relieved with the OFV. If the OFV has a weak spring then it is not letting pressure build so your fuel pressure stays low. By clamping the return line, you simulate an OFV with a tighter spring to determine whether or not it's the OFV causing the issue. If you can clamp it off then the next thing is the lift pump is a piece of crap.. Got it?

[Rogan]

If I get home early enough today, I'll give this a whirl..This morning, it was 31*F when I left for work. Startup brought 22psi @ idle, and the drive in to work, I observed it vary from 20-15psi, depending on throttle position and such.. But I'll try pinching down on the return line to see what the pressure does.

[ISX]

If I get home early enough today, I'll give this a whirl.. This morning, it was 31*F when I left for work. Startup brought 22psi @ idle, and the drive in to work, I observed it vary from 20-15psi, depending on throttle position and such.. But I'll try pinching down on the return line to see what the pressure does.

Yeah the spec clearly says "It should never get under 25psi under a load (driving)" so yours is definitely having issues.

[Rogan]

Roger that.

[Rogan]

Yeah.. well, I haven't found a decent place to pinch off the return line yet. Everything I can see of it is steel..

[ISX]

You gotta look further than 2ft Goes to rubber past the fuel filter.