starting trouble when hot

[Mopar1973Man]

Brown solenoid wire you hook to pin 85 on the relay.Using another wire ground Pin 86 on the relay to body metal.Now with your aftermarket fuel pump you can slice the add on lead some where going to the pump. Then slice the power lead to the pump and hook to 30 and 87a. The lift pump should be shut down and non-functional while cranking.

[KYcummins5.9]

moparman.....is the relay in this diagram the relay that came in the wiring harness for the aftermarket LP????

[KYcummins5.9]

bump^^^

[Mopar1973Man]

moparman.....is the relay in this diagram the relay that came in the wiring harness for the aftermarket LP????

bump^^^

No. This is totally separate relay added to delay the lift pump from starting.

[KYcummins5.9]

where's a good place to purchase this relay?got a part # or specs on it? thanks

[Mopar1973Man]

Napa store roughly about $11 to $13 bucks. It will be a 30 amp relay and it will require its a 5 pin not a 4 pin relay.

[Cheatham]

Napa store roughly about $11 to $13 bucks. It will be a 30 amp relay and it will require its a 5 pin not a 4 pin relay.

Autozone part #19273

[KYcummins5.9]

napa part # AR272SB

[KYcummins5.9]

P0234 is a over boost code and is caused from a rusted wastegate. This is NOT a MAP sensor error. The MAP sensor is detecting overly high boost numbers and ECM is defueling to protect the engine.

P0522 is basically the oil pressure sender has failed or there is a wiring issues.

Hard start while hot is a sign of a torn VP44 diaphragm and fuel pressure makes the VP44 hypersensitive. So if you disconnect the Raptor when it does this and it fire up them its confirmed and your going to need to do the lift pump relay mod.

is the aftermarket LP harness still used in conjunction w/ this relay?

figured it out....LOL

The yellow/white wire is the factory hot wire in the STOCK lift pump wiring harness.

i got it all hooked up and works like a charm....thanks for the diagram and all the help

[hz9tk7]

Here is a good fuel pressure gauge and low price but high quality. http://www.alligatorperformance.com/gauge-mechanical-fuel-pressure-black-p-1678.html So after picking up some misc. fitting and air brake line you could be about $50 or so bucks. [ATTACH=CONFIG]5181[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]5182[/ATTACH]

I have noticed that this gauge appears to be a mechanical guage and is NOT electronic, is this safe to run throught the firewall to the cab?

[dripley]

I have noticed that this gauge appears to be a mechanical guage and is NOT electronic, is this safe to run throught the firewall to the cab?

Mechanical here for about 1.5 years and no problem. I did drill a small hole in the pod holding the gauge just to get some forewarning in case it leaked. Had a couple of small ones initially, but nothing since. I also have a needle valve on the line. If it starts leaking it can be shut off fairly quickly.

[Mopar1973Man]

I have noticed that this gauge appears to be a mechanical guage and is NOT electronic, is this safe to run throught the firewall to the cab?

Yes. Diesel fuel has to heated to 150-180*F to reach flash point. So below these temperatures diesel fuel will not readily ignite with a open flame. I've been direct plumbed like this for over 8 years now and no issues at all. Gauge has worked flawless for the 8 years. The tubing you see in the pictures is Air Brake Tubing and its rated for a burst pressure of 600-800 PSI so I hardly doubt a mere 15-20 PSI pump will blow it.

[hz9tk7]

Yes. Diesel fuel has to heated to 150-180*F to reach flash point. So below these temperatures diesel fuel will not readily ignite with a open flame. I've been direct plumbed like this for over 8 years now and no issues at all. Gauge has worked flawless for the 8 years. The tubing you see in the pictures is Air Brake Tubing and its rated for a burst pressure of 600-800 PSI so I hardly doubt a mere 15-20 PSI pump will blow it.

Great! Well I think I know what route I will go then, besides I had the BD 5psi warning light on my other truck and the electric switch malfunctioned and was lighting up at higher rpm's with around 12-14 psi , I will go mechanical then. I was going to go Edge Juice w/ attitude to get all the gauges, but I already have an Edge comp box installed non-tapped. I think I will just go mechanical gauges instead like you guys say. I have a 53 block in my truck which just turned over 360,000 kms hauling a camper up and down our Coquahalla highway in British Columbia Canada. No cracks yet running non-tapped, but I am wondering if it is save to tap with a 53 block?

[hex0rz]

I bought my truck with an edge comp in it. Has a 53 block. I got rid of it after a year or so but just recently got another one. Both times the pump is tapped. I cannot recall the thread, but there was a discussion on the idea of the cause of the crack in the 53 block.Anyways, I'm not gonna look back on it and I for one will be using a comp with mine. Just don't get too crazy with it.

[hz9tk7]

I bought my truck with an edge comp in it. Has a 53 block. I got rid of it after a year or so but just recently got another one. Both times the pump is tapped. I cannot recall the thread, but there was a discussion on the idea of the cause of the crack in the 53 block. Anyways, I'm not gonna look back on it and I for one will be using a comp with mine. Just don't get too crazy with it.

Ok. Thanks for the info, I see you have injectors a well as the comp, does adding injectors decrease your fuel economy? I would like to add some but enjoy getting 25-26 HWY MPG.