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boost gauge not working.

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so on my 12 hour drive to the beach, about halfway through the trip after stopping at a rest stop, the boost gauge stopped working. then the last 6 hours i get to watch the gauge sweep from 0 to straight down past 60 psi.. :banghead: extremely distracting and fun to watch due to prolonged boredom during the drive..i bought the truck with the gauges on them, and i honestly have no clue where the boost gauge even leads to. what should i check first? thanks guys, sorry for the newbie questions

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Its an electronic gauge so I would say the map sensor or the data link sensor. Pop the hood and start tracing where they come through the firewall. Might be a faulty gauge too.

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ok i will check under there first thing in the morning and report back here

I'm not as smart as you fellas, but I'm pretty sure an EV2 boost gauge has a sending unit just like a fuel pressure gauge does. Look for it tapped into the intake horn, or along the intake manifold near the injection lines, or possibly down by the MAP sensor.

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yep it was tapped into the intake horn. i traced it back and found no bad spots in the wire. i took the gauge out, unplugged it, blew in the holes incase somehow they were dirty, and plugged it back in. now its working :shrug:

yep it was tapped into the intake horn. i traced it back and found no bad spots in the wire. i took the gauge out, unplugged it, blew in the holes incase somehow they were dirty, and plugged it back in. now its working :shrug:

Gotta love electronics. :lol:
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Gotta love electronics. :lol:

yea for real! they make so much sense! :doh:
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yep it was tapped into the intake horn. i traced it back and found no bad spots in the wire. i took the gauge out, unplugged it, blew in the holes incase somehow they were dirty, and plugged it back in. now its working :shrug:

Another reason I'm not fond of electric gauges. Way too often I see connection issues that hang up accurate reading and give false readings.
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yea i need to get all mechanical gauges, just cant justify buying them when these work :ahhh:didnt really find the problem it kinda worked itself out :cool:

I'm all for electrical gauges, but they are only as good as the connection. The more splicing and dicing you do, the more potential for problems. Soldering kinda eliminates all problems. I am slowly converting everything to electrical. I see no problem with them as long as it is done right with solid connections.

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after searching for a broken spot in a wire for hours on miles and miles of lighting in our barn i am fed up with electrical issues :banghead:i need to buy a soldering iron and learn how to use it properly... i can pigtail and splice like a champ, but it will never be as solid

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just fantastic... went offroading for a while last night and got on a very bumpy road going about 25 MPH.. when i come to a stop i notice my fuel pressure is 0..i think its the gauge that broke this time, it stays on 0, ive plugged it in, tried plugging it in where my pyrometer gauge is, etc. nothing works. but my pyro gauge will work where the fuel pressure gauge is supposed to be. anyone know of a place i can buy an isspro ev2 white faced gauge without all the wiring? everywhere i look its $130~ for it including wiring. all i need is the gauge :spend:

  • 4 months later...
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not tryin to dig this up again but i figured out the 0 fp issue. lesson learned, dont put your ground connector standing straight up with batteries not tied down. the battery hit the hood and broke the little crimp connector haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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