Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
    • Reduced Advertisements displayed to you.

Sign in to follow this  
oldschool

Engine Stalling

Recommended Posts

My engine stalls @ idle increasingly. It also did it on the highway when I backed off the throttle to switch interchanges several times already. It's been dangerous putting it to neutral @ 50 mph or whatever road speed I find myself to restart the engine. If I start it up cold and leave it idle, it will stall within 10 to 15 minutes. If I catch it floundering I've given throttle and saved it from stalling. When this condition occurred I've seen my fuel pressure steady @ 30psi before during and after. I have an Air Dog pump with a big draw tube with that kit. I also confirmed that the shut down solenoid holds steady. I changed out the fuel filters. In recent months the engine has been hard to start and getting worse. I've been writing that off as factory injectors @ 135,000 miles. I cant see how that it would be idling strong and stall on injectors. The stock automatic transmission finally hit an impasse as the lockup converter chatters and slips. I can't accelerate hard or tow anything in lockup. I can't see that failure stall the engine in park or neutral, but it's an issue. At this point I'm thinking it might be the injector pump. I'm really stumped. I could use help with this. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first thing I would check is the fuel shut off solenoid. It sounds a lot like it is not lifting the shut down lever quite far enough. Check the boot on the bottom of the solenoid for deterioration and see if the linkage is corroded. You may also try starting the truck and see if you can lift the linkage any by hand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks MnTom, like I said above, it held steady. I had my hand on it one time when it stalled and nothing moved. I recently replaced it with a bigger solenoid from Larry's along with the relay. If I'm quick I can hit the throttle and keep it running. I could always recheck to double check. I'm scratching my head with this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This may not be it, but thought it was worth mentioning...Sounds like a similar issue I had with my 94 a couple years back when the Crank position sensor crapped out on me ... Is your truck throwing any codes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont know if there are codes. Can I pull them with a regular reader? I thought the crank sensor only gave me a signal for the tach. I thought the only way electrically to shut this motor was through the shut down solenoid via mechanical linkage. Maybe when It goes to stall I could also monitor what the tach does. Thanks YabbaDoo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The CPS on a 12v is what tells the PCM the truck is running. That will energize the alternator, gauges, tach, and A/C too. Now you got me thinking.... What is your idle speed? To low would cause it to stall at an idle too, more so cold, but still cause a stall.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The truck has no codes. The idle is steady and normal. I started it cold @ temp of about 50 degrees and it held a strong idle. I only recall the stall condition after warmed up sporadically. I didn't wait for a stall condition yet to monitor the tach.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So what RPM does the engine idle at? It is supposed to be 750RPM warm in gear and the A/C on. That would put it 850+ in park.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, I"ve got about 850 in park. It stalls out in park too. I could recheck the throttle stop. A few years back I raised it to get the proper rpm. I'm the original owner and only did it once because I noticed wear on the stop causing low rpms. It's definately worth eye balling. It would be good to rule out something moving around or maybe a problem with the stop. That's a good lead. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got out there and ran the engine for about 20-30 minutes and no stall. I shook the linkage around and pushed the stop lever laterally just in case it can go off the stop. I moved the throttle back and forth and multiple times pushed in the return direction trying to stall it. No dice. It did'nt even stall today. I'll keep trying and re-post if I find something. Thanks for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it stalls out in park then it is not an idle speed problem. I have seen mine idle at less than 500 RPM in park (makes it real tough to get going like that). When it stalls, tell me what it sounds like. Does it quit like you shut the key off, just gradually die out, or does it seem like something is trying to load it up and make it quit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It doesn't shut off quick like with a key. It takes 5-10 seconds. Sounds like its missing and choked off. As far as loading up I thought It was possible the lockup convertor (that is no good) was doing this but it seems that it would need to be in gear for that failure to stall. It's been increasingly very hard to start even in warm weather. I have to give 1/4 throttle to help. On warm or cold re-starts I have the same thing. I'm thinking the injector pump may be ready to change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you sure you don't have an air leak somewhere? Like maybe the return line on the back of the engine or even something around the heater? The rubber lines are known to leak air and not fuel. I have a hard time believing that your IP is bad. P7100 pumps usually last forever so if yours is wore out at 135k miles then it would really surprise me.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got the same though a air leak possibly. Oldschool says he's got a AirDog on his truck. I wonder if its a quick connect fitting possibly throwing a bit of air in the system. Fuel pressure gauge?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is correct, I have an Air dog and removed the stock filter and fuel heater. It's all Air dog now. Air leaks are possible. I was just looking into that with research. Good call. The other possible on the same note may be the tank vent. Fuel pressure gauge is above 30 psi steady. What's the best way to check for air leak? I hope you're right about the IP. This truck is in need of a transmission and some other mods. It's going to cost. I've got to give the truck credit, this truck never let me down and I've hauled so much weight and so powerful with low fuel consumption. Now I'm just using it on the farm until I figure it out plus time and $. My "replacement vehicle" a 1990 suburban 2500 4X4 w/ a 6.2 diesel is such a dissapointment in comparison. It's offensive to even say comparison with the Dodge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Simple method would be to pressurize the fuel tank and look for wet spots or wet joints. Do the tank pressure test right after running the truck to ensure the fuel lines are all filled with fuel. Then hope the 1-2 PSI of fuel tank pressure is capable of pushing fuel out the air leak. Sometimes it works and other times it don't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok that sounds good. I'm a bit confused, the Air Dog pump is mounted on the frame just ahead of the tank. I'm pushing fuel to the engine. If the suction from the tank is in question doesn't the Air Dog remove air from the suction line from tank and return the air back to the tank?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



×