PacBrake question

[MnTom]

HX35? If so then your drive is going to be above 40. I would verify those springs if your hitting that much boost. A valve touching a piston is $$$

I don't normally go anything above 30PSI even towing, but I haven't had any problem with it in the last 140,000 miles so I should be OK. Most of the time I am running way lower PSI boost than using the HY, but like I said, it has a better exhaust housing.

Edited January 18, 2014 by MnTom

[AH64ID]

I would guess you have upgraded springs then.

 

If it's an HX35 I bet your above 30 psi of exhaust pressure around 25 psi of boost.

[MnTom]

I would guess you have upgraded springs then.

 

If it's an HX35 I bet your above 30 psi of exhaust pressure around 25 psi of boost.

I don't really know, but don't think I have upgraded springs. I have had the truck since about 157,000 miles ago and I never upgraded them. It had 132,000 miles on it when I bought it.

[ABennin]

I installed a Isspro 100 psi EV2 exhaust backpressure gauge(PN. R17155).  My drive pressure is a little over 1 to 1.  It read 5 psi backpressure to 4 psi of boost.  Quite happy with that.  The brake works better than I thought it holds 60 psi until 1600 rpms then falls down to 25 at idle.  Holds around 45 to 50 until 1000 rpms.  The Lazarsmith TIP kit is very nice.  I will have to get a longer EGT probe because this one doesn't reach down far enough to accurately obtain a reading.  Any suggestions.... 

 

 

Edit 3-14-14

 

Looked around for a longer EGT probe and could not find one.  I bought the one Lazersmith sells on their site.  Kinda spendy, but it is made especially for the TIP kit.  So if you buy the kit, buy the probe right away and be done.

Edited March 14, 2014 by ABennin

[ABennin]

Time for an update on the brake.  Towed a bunch with it and it has worked flawlessly.  I have no regrets on choosing the inline PRXB. 

 

The only issue I have been working on is air leaks associated with the air pressure gauge.  Could not for the life of me get the fitting on the bottom of the tank to seal that runs to tee with the sensor and valve.  So I installed another tank and ran to a near by truck shop and picked up some air fittings.  Finally got the leaks fixed.    The push locs are expensive($5 a piece!) and I only used them on the tank.  I used a plain compression fitting in the tee.  In the picture that is the 2nd layout of the tee which is not finalized yet.  I knew that setup wasn't leaking so I left it for now.  I may just cut off the mount on the tee and re weld it or start fresh, haven't decided yet.  I don't like the wire hanging down.

 

I installed a triple pillar with the air pressure gauge, back pressure and my Edge monitor.  I bought the Edge accessory mount and cut off the tabs because my old monitor doesn't have them.  I used double sided tape and a little upholstery glue for insurance.  I really like it mounted there it is easy to see and not to bright.  Speaking of bright the Isspro's were way to bright, so a attribute programmer was ordered.  Dimmed them down and set the warning lights.  I did look at the potentiometer though but liked that I can program the gauges on my laptop more.

 

Also have the right thermocouple now.  It did not come with a new compression fitting so I had to get a 3/16".

Edited June 11, 2014 by ABennin

[AH64ID]

Looking good.

I used both the potentiometer and attribute programmer to get my lights where I wanted them, thou I tried with the potentiometer first as the attribute programmer wasn't out at the time.

[ABennin]

Have not checked in on the thread in a while.  Thank you AH64ID.  I had to play with them a bit and turn the lighting down a little at a time in the beginning until I had them matched to the dash.  I haven't touched them since.

 

The switch pac on the shifter gave me problems.  The light went out one night two weeks ago on the way home and the switch was warm to the touch.  Emailed PacBrake and Doug, the warranty administrator called me, but I wasn't near my phone.  I called him back the next day and explained what the problem was and he shipped a new switch.  I am happy that they stood behind it and it was for a lack of a better word, pleasant warranty experience.  I don't like when stuff breaks , but when companies handle it like the way Doug at Pac did, it is nice to know they care about the customer after they sell the product.

 

On a different subject kind of, I am working on a deal for a G56AD(recent rebuild)in place of the nv4500.  The owner of the G56 wants a nv4500.  A two birds, one stone scenario for me.  The swap is not a big deal but I have my inline brake mounted next to the transmission.  I have a friend with a '06 CTD with a G56 and took measurements and everything should clear no problem.  I may turn or clock the brake in the exhaust a little as a precaution to move the air cylinder away from its current position.  I am hoping we can make the deal, it would great to have another gear with better spacing between all of them. 

[ABennin]

The brake has worked flawlessly.  I have about 17k on it now and I use it every time the truck is out.  I finally bought a go pro camera because I found one marked down $75 at wally world. 

The first one is from in the cab.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUnDteWl5qE

This one is outside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXGz3TQZ42w

The last one is with the EB on and it is pumping up cause the tank was empty from sitting for a couple weeks.  It had already been running for almost 10 minutes and it would have stayed in 3 cyl if I let it.  If the engine was cold it would have bogged down to the point where it reverts to normal idle.  That brake puts quite a load on the engine since it is almost entirely closed off and once 60 psi is reached during braking a orifice controlled by what looks like valve spring opens to regulate pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7rjhldez8M