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Alright guys so I made the mistake of using a KN Air Filter for the last 4 months, and am currently waiting for a BHAF to come to the door . But before I do my switch is there a way to get the oil out of the turbo? It's not to bad since it's only been 4 months but you can still plainly see the oil in there it's not imbedded in the metal of the turbo yet Thank god!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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You could use brake cleaner on the turbo while the engine is running. Just be sure to take the intake loose from the intake horn and let the what comes from the inter cooler vent to the atmosphere. Don't let it get near the grid heaters. Or just don't worry about it.

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It would be best to just remove the turbo so you can remove the compressor housing and clean the entire compressor wheel and the rest of the compressor housing you can see. Remember that turbo is spin a very high rate of RPM's and its best to keep the compressor wheel clean and balanced. Compressor housing for HX35 is just a snap ring so its super easy to remove and clean right.

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Oh ok thanks Mopar1973Man!! So as for my truck not starting I removed the Alternator, and both Batteries, and had them all tested. Come to find out one of my batteries are bad! So Iv'e got a new one and am going to put it all back together and keep my fingers crossed that was the problem. It makes sense since after I had the batteries disconnected for a few days when I replaced my starter contacts. I noticed the truck was quite turning over as quick as it used to. According to the guy at the Auto parts store it wouldn't hold a charge. I was surprised about the Alternator still being good since it was the original with 136,000 on the truck so I tested it twice at two different stores to be sure! And it's good so will see fingers crossed!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Oh ok thanks Mopar1973Man!! So as for my truck not starting I removed the Alternator, and both Batteries, and had them all tested. Come to find out one of my batteries are bad! So Iv'e got a new one and am going to put it all back together and keep my fingers crossed that was the problem. It makes sense since after I had the batteries disconnected for a few days when I replaced my starter contacts. I noticed the truck was quite turning over as quick as it used to. According to the guy at the Auto parts store it wouldn't hold a charge. I was surprised about the Alternator still being good since it was the original with 136,000 on the truck so I tested it twice at two different stores to be sure! And it's good so will see fingers crossed!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replace both batteries. Never just one. As for the Alternator when the test was done what was the AC Noise output? Sorry I don't have anything for the turbo clean up but I'm sure others can chime in to get you cleaned up.
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They didn't have an A/C output just a pass or fail. I took it to two stores just to be sure, and they both passed! As for the battery I only did do the one. They said the other one was real good! I took your advise on the 2 stroke oil started using it today after I got her going again!! speaking of which any particular kind of Snowmobile 2 stroke oil I should be looking for when it gets colder? And what temp should I switch from regular 2 stroke oil to the Snowmobile type? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The older battery will start pulling the new one down, especially whenever it starts getting weak. As for the AC noise, that is the real killer on these trucks when it comes to the alternators. It can still be pumping good juice but you could have a ton of AC voltage and it will mess with the electronics. Moparman has some very simple tests that you can check the alternator with.

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Basically want to measure the output of the alternator in DC and AC volts. Need a good DVM like A Fluke or SnapOn. DC scale should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically. The AC volts scale should be less than 0.1 volts. Typically a good alternator will measure about 0.01 to 0.02 volts AC. Even better yet a O-scope... Please watch this video.

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