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Leaking vac pump / ps pump mount flange


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Damn.

 

Recently pressurewashed and thoroughly degreased my engine. 

 

Yea, I know once the engine is squeaky clean this the best way to spot leaks.

 

So, I have an oil leak where the vac pump / ps pump flange mounts to the rear of the timing case.  Dammit! Hard to get to.

 

Has anyone taken this assembly off to change the gasket & resolve an oil leak? My first gen has a leak in the SAME EXACT area. I tried to remove the assy on that truck and ended up frustated. I'm not fixing this issue on the old first gen,  but my 02 is one sweet truck so I'm inclined to fix and keep it clean. Any tips or step by steps? 

 

Picture attached.  (picture taken while i was laying on my back looking up, kinda hard to get the shot but I tried)

 

Thanks!

 

Click picture for big view.

 

post-1543-0-68293100-1388254541_thumb.jp

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I pulled the assembly off to rebuild the vac pump about 2 year ago. Also last year to replace the cam position sensor. It is easy to do. There is an oil line and a bracket that you get ot from under neath. Then there is four bolts. Best to leave the ps pump attached so that both come out as one. IMO you should put new seals in vac pump while it's out. Geno's Garage has a kit that has all you need. I think it's about 30-40 dollars.

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I pulled the assembly off to rebuild the vac pump about 2 year ago. Also last year to replace the cam position sensor. It is easy to do. There is an oil line and a bracket that you get ot from under neath. Then there is four bolts. Best to leave the ps pump attached so that both come out as one. IMO you should put new seals in vac pump while it's out. Geno's Garage has a kit that has all you need. I think it's about 30-40 dollars.

Thanks.

 

4 bolts? I see only 2 on the flange that bolts to the timing gear case. Where are the other 2?

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  • 2 weeks later...

You are right, two bolts - at least on my '95.  The thing is, they have 15 mm heads - who has 15 mm wrenches?  Turns out I have one 15 mm combination wrench in an ancient SK Wayne set, and one 15 mm 3/8" drive 6 point socket, no 15 mm impacts.  Took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a step down to get them loose (today, which is why I'm searching here and reading this thread right now).

 

I can't complain, truck has 536,000 miles on it - but I'm wondering, if the power steering pump went bad (I didn't take it apart to fix the vacuum pump leak, I took it apart because I can't drive it with no ps) - is the steering grear box on it's way too?  Reason I ask is Genos (and someone else) sells the "kit" with power steering pump, lines, and steering gearbox.  Seems like a lot of expense and work to change the steering box if it still works, but am I being realistic or just a lazy cheapskate?  Your thoughts and wisdom are greatly welcome.

 

Regards,

Andrew

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  • 1 month later...

Gould gear and electronics....fixinrams.com sells a seal kit and various ways to repair or purchase coupler and vacuum pumps for about the best prices I've seen. 

 

When I did mine, pulled the (2) 15mm bolts at the case and I thought I remembered you had a bracket where the ps and vacuum pump mate, then once the whole unit was loose split the 2

matt

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Not too bad of a job, just kind of a pain to get to. My power steering was leaking like a sieve so I replaced the vacuum seal. I agree that it's best to take the vacuum pump and ps pump off as a whole unit. I'd just google search it. I found a few decent write ups before I did mine.

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I got the seal kit from Gould Gear and Electric / fixinrams.com and it was perfect.

 

Being in a panic at not having my truck to get to work (friend gave me a lift two days) I asked them to send it "overnight" - and the shipping cost the same as the seals.  Cheap even though expensive, I got it back together right away and there are no leaks, the steeing works, and if I ever again need anything they sell I will buy it from them in a heartbeat.

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