Looking at a 2000 2500 4x4 6 speed your opinions please mopar man and all please

[guinnessbrewer]

I am pretty close to buying my first dodge diesel pickup, and I found a 2000 2500 club cab 6 speed camper special sport 4x4 for 9600. It is a 1 owner truck very well maintained with 166,000. The owner used it to pull a 5th wheel occasionally and here is the kicker....it has a 53 block. As of this moment there are no cracks or coolant leaks. What do you think? It is a really nice truck, but this and the typical vp44 issues give me pause before I pull the trigger. The other truck I am looking at is a 98 12v with 142000 for $9500. only problem with that is it has an auto transmission, which I feel would probably be more trouble than a manual. I like the idea of a 12v mostly because they seem to be a bit more reliable than the 24v trucks (fuel and ecm issues)Whichever truck I get, i don't plan to hot rod it, the most I think I would do is a k&n and maybe exhaust with an edge juice/ attitude. This truck will be used as a daily driver, occasionally used to get firewood, and haul a small camper. Thanks!

[ISX]

If that automatic is wore out you will probably end up spending the same on rebuilding it as you will making the 24V bulletproof, maybe more. I don't know much about how often this 53 block cracks. I think it's the hot rodders that make them crack, but I am not sure. That year 12V is pretty golden, everybody wants them, especially if it's an extended cab with rear doors. They are the only year 12V quad cab with doors back there. Even if the transmission is not wore out, they wear quickly if you turn it up, and by that I mean they are designed for the stock power and hardly any more than that.

[guinnessbrewer]

Thanks for the input ISX!

[gassernomore]

I would check for codes on the 2000. Has the clutch ever been changed? With that many miles, could be time. What is the fuel pressure? What kind of lift pump? Cancel the k & N filter.

[ISX]

Yeah if your going to get an air filter, get an Amsoil Nanofiber one so you can just clean it with shop air. I been getting the thick papered BHAF and they are junk. They are fine for a little bit but it doesn't take long for the cummins to suck in enough air and dust to completely blacken the thing. When I change it out I can always tell a difference in turbo response. The only reason I use them is my brother gets them for very cheap.

Edited January 20, 2010 by ISX

[Mopar1973Man]

I am pretty close to buying my first dodge diesel pickup, and I found a 2000 2500 club cab 6 speed camper special sport 4x4 for 9600. It is a 1 owner truck very well maintained with 166,000. The owner used it to pull a 5th wheel occasionally and here is the kicker....it has a 53 block. As of this moment there are no cracks or coolant leaks. What do you think? It is a really nice truck, but this and the typical vp44 issues give me pause before I pull the trigger.

As for the 24V sound like a good truck. You don't plan on racing or getting wild do ya? If not then just let the truck warm up before you go putting a load on on it. But the 24V fuel system are much better over the 12V being the electronics give it dynamic timing and better performance over static timed engines.

The other truck I am looking at is a 98 12v with 142000 for $9500. only problem with that is it has an auto transmission, which I feel would probably be more trouble than a manual. I like the idea of a 12v mostly because they seem to be a bit more reliable than the 24v trucks (fuel and ecm issues)

Yeap the Transmission is goingh to kill you though.. Auto trans can't haul much for any or accept any kind of power enhancement. You though VP44 are spendy wait till you start spending money on transmission parts...

Whichever truck I get, i don't plan to hot rod it, the most I think I would do is a k&n and maybe exhaust with an edge juice/ attitude. This truck will be used as a daily driver, occasionally used to get firewood, and haul a small camper.

Skip the k&N and get a BHAF... Mine is 6 years old now got over 110K miles and still not needing to be change. 80% dirt roads too... The Edge Juice is a good one for the 24V truck comes with gauges and gives good power. If you learn how to drive with it on 5x5 you can touch 20-21 MPG without much problems.

Thanks!

24V series engine gain alot over the 12V series because of the electronic fuel system. It able to give the truck the timing it need right at the exact point in time. Where older 12V relies on a mechanical sense of timing like older gasser engines. Now combined with the Edge Juice and the setting on 5x5 you get maximum timing and MPG will rise. Now on the 12V you got to phyiscally re-timing the pump using special tools. Now high timing numbers like 16 BTDC will perform awesome but might create hard starting. Where lower 13 BTDC will start better but ther performance is lost some...

As for the 53 Block... Yes it true that the crack. But not all of them... Most people find if you let it warm up to at least 140*F before hauling it tends to keep thing in check. But I've seen several guys with 53 blocks that have built up 500 HP engine without a issue... But then there is some people common folks that have totally stock trucks and it a grocery getter have them crack. I think it also got to do with the maintenance of the coolant too. Most people dont change coolant till its too late and the coolant pH is acidic or basic...

[ISX]

24V series engine gain alot over the 12V series because of the electronic fuel system. It able to give the truck the timing it need right at the exact point in time. Where older 12V relies on a mechanical sense of timing like older gasser engines. Now combined with the Edge Juice and the setting on 5x5 you get maximum timing and MPG will rise. Now on the 12V you got to phyiscally re-timing the pump using special tools. Now high timing numbers like 16 BTDC will perform awesome but might create hard starting. Where lower 13 BTDC will start better but ther performance is lost some... As for the 53 Block... Yes it true that the crack. But not all of them... Most people find if you let it warm up to at least 140*F before hauling it tends to keep thing in check. But I've seen several guys with 53 blocks that have built up 500 HP engine without a issue... But then there is some people common folks that have totally stock trucks and it a grocery getter have them crack. I think it also got to do with the maintenance of the coolant too. Most people dont change coolant till its too late and the coolant pH is acidic or basic...

I don't think you can pick one way or the other based on timing differences. And define performance.. I have driven stock 6 speed 24v's and if you mean throttle response, well I never even noticed any power until I was above 2200 or so, not to mention I haven't had any 5 or 6 speed 24v's ever keep up with me from a stoplight, they always end up at my back bumper. If you mean mileage, yeah I got you beat there too based on that mileage chart of yours, and having your fuel system need pumps and lube and all that other stuff I don't see as an advantage either Now don't take that the wrong way, the 24v does have advantages, though you can match them on a 12V but it takes a lot of skill and know how. I didn't really notice much mileage increase going from 13.5-16* timing so I don't know if 24v's have any advantage having dynamic timing, when I could have left mine at 13.5, start as good as them, and get better mileage than them. I do see a BIG benefit to having a computerized engine though. My idle changes drastically in the winter, you have to hold the pedal down a little to keep it from dieing because the cold makes it idle so low, not an issue with 24v's.. 24v's also have 3cyl idle and a high idle that turns off when the temp gets to 170F, I don't have this either. You can also turn up a 24v with a chip which is obviously much easier than doing all the things I have to do to match what a chip will do. For what you seem to want out of the truck though, I would get the 24v. You might have to mess with fuel pumps and things to make it bulletproof, but then it's smooth sailing. I have many small things that I have to do manually that a 24v does automatically, and I think you would be happier with something that did it automatically. Another thing is you can actually figure out problems with codes with a 24 whereas a 12 makes you look for the problems yourself. The computer has no control over the 12v engine, the only thing it does is look at the sensors and give you gauge readings, it cannot do anything else. More food for thought: You will take more parts of the fuel system apart just to turn up a 12v, than you will to put a fuel pump on a 24v.. As for mileage, 24v's seem to average 20-21 whereas I average around 23. They are BOTH capable of getting 25+ with the right driving (55mph). Edited January 20, 2010 by ISX

[guinnessbrewer]

Hey ISX,Thanks for your help... I am looking forward to getting some decent mileage but really... WHO ON THIS FORUM ACTUALLY DRIVES 55.....PLEASE! Any opinion on tires to run? I am thinking of getting some Michelin LTX AT2 load range E tires or something with a good on/off road tread. The tires that the dealer put on the truck are some chinese GEO-TRAC highway tread 10ply. ( I know, I know every thing we have these days is chinese, but tires? COME ON!!!???) THANKS!!!!!

Edited January 21, 2010 by guinnessbrewer
oops

[ISX]

K&N gain their rank through marketing tactics and the fact that you cannot prove your engine messed up from having a poor air filter. Nobody ever blames them. The truth is, they stay clean, but how do they stay clean?! They use very large pores in their air filters so dirt CAN get through, yet doesn't build up on the air filter, so you think the filter is clean all the time when in fact, it is all going right into the engine. This is also why they never lose flow, because they CAN'T get clogged..Those tires are very good tires. I have used them with long tread wear. I have started using Hankook Dynapro A/T's which are $75 cheaper and have exceptional traction, superior to the Michelins. I am not sure if it comes with the cost of tread life though. Only had 20k on them. Actually I had the version before the AT2's so those might be a little different. I am willing to bet that they will last just as long. I am talking 100k miles a set if you don't burn out and make sure to rotate them.

Edited January 21, 2010 by ISX

[guinnessbrewer]

?bhaf? Help

[guinnessbrewer]

who me, burn out....surely you jest!

[guesswho512]

K&N gain their rank through marketing tactics and the fact that you cannot prove your engine messed up from having a poor air filter. Nobody ever blames them. The truth is, they stay clean, but how do they stay clean?! They use very large pores in their air filters so dirt CAN get through, yet doesn't build up on the air filter, so you think the filter is clean all the time when in fact, it is all going right into the engine. This is also why they never lose flow, because they CAN'T get clogged..

i agree 100%...everyone one blames the oil. if every hi-proformace car/truck has a logo on it....then everyone wants one

[ISX]

?bhaf? Help

Big Honkin' Air Filter lol. Theres a long list of ones that will work. They provide all the air flow you will ever need. Much more than the stock air box. Should last a lot longer than the stock one too.

i agree 100%...everyone blames the oil. if every hi-performance car/truck has a logo on it....then everyone wants one

It's advertising really. They produce more power since it's like having no filter on it at all, which is basically true, only thing it keeps out is rocks and birds. This advertising can be seen in a ton of products, that only sell because of the advertising that smooths out their faults, especially on chevy commercials Edited January 21, 2010 by ISX