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2006 VW Jetta TDI Problem


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Hey guys, my son's car (06 Jetta TDI) has all the sudden lost power and I found out that cruise quit at the same time. I have VCDS and pulled an EGR code and an O2 sensor code. I pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it then put it back on. I get screwy readings on what it is doing. Most times at idle it will say 100.6% duty and other times it will say 15% duty. I checked the boost and the actuator comes up with the correct numbers. I blocked off the EGR for testing and it didn't seem to make much of a difference except now there were no engine codes. I should tell you that the fuel filter was changed a week ago. I tok it for a test drive and it would barely get out of its own way. I scanned it again and got an EGR code. I checked the fuel filter and it looks like brand new so I put the canister back together. Started it up and noticed it was way more responsive. Went for a ride and the first 150' it ran great then back to low power. I should mention that it runs real smooth so in my mind that eliminates the cam (which looks fine), compression issues or individual injector problems. The only thing that makes a diesel lack power is fuel and/or air. Since there is no smoke it points to fuel. I am stumped..... Here is the code I get:


Address 01: Engine        Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
   Part No SW: 03G 906 016 AC    HW: 028 101 223 9
   Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000DG  7551  
   Revision: --H01---    Serial number: VWZ7Z0E2925752
   Coding: 0050078
   Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
   VCID: 64E94D3FA7A0153E1FF-8031

1 Fault Found:
001027 - EGR Valve (N18)
               P0403 - 000 - Malfunction
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01100000
                    Fault Priority: 0
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 215299 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 22:23:26

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2856 /min
                    Speed: 56.0 km/h
                    Duty Cycle: 0.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.52 V
                    Mass Air / Rev.: 715.0 mg/str
                    Duty Cycle: 0.0 %
                    Bin. Bits: 00000000

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The EGR can be disconnected and should not effect the operation of the vehicle.


I would look at the turbo, they have veins that change angle to depict how much boost you get, rather than a wastegate.

when the turbo is not actuating correctly this will happen. Default position is open to allow no boost.

I also reccommend checking the timing position as well.

TDI's run an imposing engine and this could truly mess stuff up!!


I had a 2000 for a couple of years and learned a lot about mine during the time I had it.

EGR never messes with it, however, this new O2 sensor crap coould possibly change that.

I would look over at the TDI club and see what they say.

You may have to be a member to do a good search but It is a good place to go.



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Not sure if the PD engines have the same issue as the earlier ones like my 03 but the egr and the pcv system work together to carbon the intake manifold solid with soot and oil gunk that turns into a black carbon residue that is hard as heck. At about 150K my wife said it would surge and lose power on hills but run normal under low power needs or normal cruising, did some looking and pulled the intake manifold and couldn't believe it could run at all as it was about 90% plugged and into the intake ports on the head, took me a couple of hours to clean it out, she is closing in on 300K and am waiting for it to happen again anytime.

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I have an '01 TDI and my brake light switch affects cruise control.  There maybe other things that can affect it but if my switch fails then I loose cruise control.  It has happened three times in the 145k I have on the clock.  All three times were when the car was under warranty.


I lost power once and it turned out to be the mass flow sensor.  This happened under warranty also and nothing since.


I have yet to have the plugging trouble that W&F experienced.

Edited by War Eagle
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You guys are doing what I did. The code is for an electrical issue not a mechanical issue. I just realized that last night. I did some searching and found something interesting:

Hey all,
i'm noticing a lot of mk5 jetta deisel owners posting threads about strange codes and trips to the dealer. i work at an independant vw specialist in Montreal, Quebec and we've had many clients come in with their BRM diesels bringing up codes for turbo boost control, egr actuators, cruise control and the such all because of the corroded engine wiring harness in front of the transmission or under the battery. Our winters in Canada bring road salt and sand and it seems to collect in the plastic sheathing around the harness, and as the deisel vibrates, the sand rubbs through the insulation causing weak spots for salt to penatrate. In previous threads, i've read of people replacing turbos and full EGR and intake manifolds, to flap motors and even the catylitic coverter. I've personaly repaired 6 different harnesses and it seems to do the trick. (many CAN bus wires replaced too)
So from experience, it's worth the time to unwrap the harness and check it out befor replaceing anything. Just some food for thought...



Eddielee, I am a member there, but refuse to post there. I asked a simple question about the DSG transmission and a few members jumped all over me about not reading the owner's manual.

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Worst part is, I was just asking for my son...... I said something about the snotty response and would not allow that type on my site and they said "Well, it must be a real boring site then!!" After that I left and never looked back.

Anyhow, I think I may have fixed it. I pulled the air box and there are three grounds under there with two brown wires each. I pulled the first one and the wires looked clean, the second one had one clean and the other was slightly corroded, and the third was both wires had some corrosion on them. I didn't think they were enough to cause a problem but with the PCM who knows? I also checked the harnesses under there for any chafing, but found no sign of any. I put it back together and took it for a drive. Other than a little turbo lag below about 1800 RPM it did just fine and even the cruise works again! Now to see if I can get the lag out of it.

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I had similar EXPERIENCES WHEN I STARTED THERE TOO, BUT IF ONE SPENDS TIME READING THERE IS NO FORUM ON HE WEB I HAVE FOUND WITH BETTER IN DEPTH AND DETAILED WRITE UPS ABOUT EVERYTHING ONE COULD IMAGINE ABOUT vw'S . Just need to read and research rather than post at first, I have posted several times and gotten excellent info once searching and reading threads was exhausted which takes a while with the extensive amount of info there is there.


Sorry about fat fingering the caps.

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I agree Bill, they do have great info, but I will never log in or post there again.

DAMMIT!! I went to take the car for a ride last night and didn't even go 400' and turned around. It cut out twice. Now I need to go scan it again and see what I find.......

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I just scanned it and the engine control module says "No Codes Found". Everything I can check with my VCDS shows normal. What would make a diesel buck?


edit 12:56 pm I took it for a drive and it did as good as you could ever want!?!? This car didn't have any turbo lag either! This it screwey.........

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I just got back from another drive with the car. It did great! I don't understand........... Maybe the computer had to 're-learn' something? I didn't think it had that capability.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My son called tonight and said the car is still running good and as an added bonus his radio is a lot better with a lot less static where he is! Amazing what a small (and I mean small) amount of corrosion will do to a ground.

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Hey guys,   is/was  the  tdi   offered  in  any body  VW  makes?   ( or  more  specifically,  a  2 door?)  NO BEETLES for me..


grounds are weird,    sometimes   it'll make   an effected component  ground itself  back through another  component...    and when THAT  component  clicks  on or off  causing  the  FIRST  component   to    respond  in   'not too pleasant'  ways...  


Tom,  at least you didn't get the  universal  response  in that site;     "search is your friend"...  or   "If you gotta  ask,  it's  waaaaayyyy beyond  US  explaining it to you"

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Probably any  model year  I can AFFORD!!!   :ashamed:     Actually,     mid   2000's  give or take,   2003 through  2007. 


I  was  hoping the  gremlins  VW  had  in their  electricals from the  80's and  90's    was  a  thing  of the past... until I read your post!     On the otherhand,    what  vehicle  is  immune these  days  to  some sort of  electrical  snafu!?!

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Well, if you want a four door then look at a 2006+ Jetta TDI. They are pretty roomy and have a huge trunk. You could even put three bodies in there! Don't ask....... :lol:  You also get the newer body style with the older drive train sort of like the '98 12V trucks. I would have to look to see if there is a two door TDI available in those years. Also, when you get a VW go to www.ross-tech.com and buy the proper plug to have access to the computer. With it you can even do things to the computer that the dealer can't! Hey!! I just thought I have a 2012 JSW TDI that I will make you a deal on!

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Honestly I recommend using seafoam in the intake to clean the Turbo up good.


The soot in the turbos on the VW's are funny little things. They need to be driven correctly.

Accelerating and working the turbo to an RPM of 3500 almost redlining sometimes in order to knock off soot within the veins and their movement path.


I used PB blaster while I was dealing with cleaning the exhaust manifold/ turbo and it worked wonders.


If you seafoam it correctly then it will flush the soot out of the turbo and the manifold.

Seafoam the thing with like a half can and kill the engine with the seafoam, let it sit for 20-30 minutes.

Start the car let it run a few minutes until it clears up, revving it a few times after and then repeat!

After the first can is gone on 2 or 3 doses drive the car like you stole it up a mountain.


Ok don't get too dangerous, but, maintain high RPM's once it is warm, working the engine up a grade.

Do not use over drive or 5th gear maintain D or 4th. This will force everything through and worke the veins to clear their path.

It will also burn and clear the remaining particles.


After performing this proceedure you want to maintain the Turbo by driving it that way at minimum every couple weeks.

In my opinion weekly for a daily driver is prefered. This way you do not have to drive it as hard, nor as long, to maintain the turbos action.


That being said I believe the operating valve on the turbo is electricly actuated and the electrical fix likely fixed the initial issue.

The continuing funky operation for a couple trips or so leads me to believe the turbo has not been operating properly for a while now.

This funky operation has caused excessive buildup in the turbo, and a necessity to clean it.

Edited by eddielee
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