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Posted (edited)

Here I'm going to try to go through everything I did to put an he351cw off of a 2005 CR Cummins onto my 2002 24valve Cummins.

 

There may be some redundant pictures in here, so bear with me!

I started by buying the parts I knew I would need.

2 turbo mounting studs from Cummins (I bought the stock length for an 05) These screwed into the bottom of the manifold. The other two were plenty long.

2 longer oil return tube mounting bolts

2 90degree exhaust elbows from Litz Auto (I think they measured 3x3 in length)

1 HE351cw wastegate plug from DAP.http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20solenoid%20cap%20tapped.htm

T3 turbo manifold gasket. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20t3%20gasket%203949530.htm

Oil return Gasket. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/turbo%20oil%20gasket%203937706.htm

 

Next I fabbed up the wastegate holder. I chose to use the stock wastegate actuator and build a bracket that mounted off of the oil return bolts. 

I don't remember the size of the angle iron I used, but it really doesn't matter as long as there is room to bolt and weld everything up. 

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Next I clocked the turbo. I did this by using two small punches and channel lock pliers. It isn't fun, but it's doable! 

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Here are some pictures with the turbo mounted, clocked, and the actuator hooked up. 

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Next I made the charge pipe. If you are doing this just go buy the one from DAP! It'll make your install 1000 times easier! 

I made mine, and it took a ton of time. I chopped off the end of my stock pipe where it connected to the turbo. I attached that to a 90degree piece of 3 inch exhaust piping from Litz Auto. (They were expensive too) I then made a short piece extending down and attached another 90degree piece of exhaust piping. I then cut the stock pipe coming out of the intercooler, and spent an hour or two tacking, twisting and grinding before finding the perfect fit. Here are some pics.

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I attached the exhaust using the 05 stock elbow, and an hx40 downpipe that I cut the end off of. 

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 Here are a few pictures of when I put a Batmo wheel on

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I have more pictures to provide if anyone is interested. If you are doing the swap and would like some advice or help with something don't hesitate to PM me!

 

All together it was a great turbo, I just wanted to go a bit of a different route with my truck and cool the egts off a bit more than this turbo could. I'll add more to this post as I remember things! MoparMan feel free to keep this here or move it as you see necessary. I just figured more guys look here than in the performance section!

Edited by TFaoro
  • Like 3
Posted

What size injectors were you running with this turbo? I am debating doing a swap pretty soon as my hx35 is in need of a rebuild. Might as well upgrade, right? I just don't know if my 40hp injectors would do it. Maybe with the comp turned up??

Posted

I was running 100's when I had it on, and I think they might have been a bit much for that turbo. 40's I think would spool it fairly well. I was making well over 40psi with the edge cranked, so I think those would be fine with your edge turned up.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good write up. I would do the VE swap over the CW. More efficient and you can utilize the exhaust brake with a standalone controller. It is substantially more than a CW but when you figure in the exhaust brake it brings the price back down to less than what with you would spend upgrading your turbo and buying an aftermarket brake.

I started collecting parts a year ago, between fixes around the house and vehicle repairs getting the rest of what I need has been put on hold.

Someday.

Posted

The VE is a variable vane. Gives you boost at low rpm/load conditions quicker than a standard turbo. All of the big 3 have gone to vgt's (Dodge being the last I think). VW has been using them since the late 90's. It's just a more efficient turbo. Now if your more into the performance end and not so concerned with fuel efficiency then yes there are better turbos out there.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does the turbo control the variable vanes itself? Or is that what you need the stand alone controller for?

 

Sorry for all the questions. Just realized I don't really know anything about the newer turbos.

Posted

It can be controlled by a standalone controller or a series of diaphragms, air cylinders & a cable to mechanicly simulate it.

 

There may be a new controller on the market in a couple few months.

 

Ed

  • Like 1
  • Staff
Posted

Nice install.

 

Did you consider the spring style WG? They open on drive pressure vs boost pressure, and the HE351 needs all the turbine flow it can get especially with a "upgraded" comp wheel.

 

Are you measuring drive pressure at all?

Posted

I considered it, but I didn't have a drive pressure gauge, so I decided to run it on boost pressure. I now have an industrial turbo, but I would like to put in a drive pressure gauge. I am heading back to school shortly so it won't be happening soon.. but maybe during Christmas

Posted

I do! Where would you guys mount one? I was thinking up by the 4WD shifter, as it would only be used for tuning purposes

  • Staff
Posted

Correct me if I am wrong but the ideal ratio between boost and back pressure is 1:1, right?

Or lower. When drive pressure exceeds boost the engine is having to work harder than it needs to to push the exhaust out. You also can overspeed turbo's and increase EGT's for the same boost pressure with a lower drive pressure.

High drive pressure can lead to exhaust valve float.

Here is a little video of drive to boost on my stock turbo. Boost left, DP right.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/Drive%20Pressure/th_Video_011209_001.mp4

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/Drive%20Pressure/th_Video_011209_002.mp4

  • Like 1
Posted

I get this from your link, John.....

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