Dana 60 4x4...Moog problem solvers or oem Danas? The Danas are a little cheaper for one side, about $70 and Moogs are about $90. Any input as far as quality or longevity? Because this is lengthy and annoying job, I don't want to replace them again anytime soon. Thanks  

Dynatrac recently started making ball joints for second gen trucks. they would get my vote hands down. Last set you will ever install and IF they ever wear out they are rebuild able without removing. They are pricey though so probably not the best option if you don't plan on keeping your truck.

Back to the choices you mentioned, Are the Spicers gareas able or sealed? I would not put a sealed ball joint in my truck after seeing the condition of my OEM joints. They were so dry they were full of dust. If they would have been servicable I'd probably still have them in the truck. As it was they only lasted less than 75k miles.

I've Got the MOOG Problem Solvers in my truck and so far so good. Only appr. 40K on them so far though. Just be careful when ordering your not buying knurled joints. These are designed for control arms that are too worn out for standard sized ball joints and will stretch the bore of an otherwise good control arm.If you have to replace the ball joints again in the future you may have to replace the control arms.

Check out xrf. Make sure the lower is greasable. The grease zerk will go in the top corner of the ball joint not the top center like the upper ball joint. Those are only greaseable once while installing

Edited September 1, 201410 yr by mopartechnician

I'm not aware of any lower ball joints that allow you to leave the grease fitting in place all the time. Most that I have seen come with a 90* zerk and a plug. Remove the plug install 90 to service then reinstall plug. This should be able to be done with the ball joint in the truck.

Ive installed them on the last two pickups I have done ball joints on

I'm not quite following what your saying?

All serviceable ball joints should be greasable after they've been installed on the truck or there isn't any point in buying a greasable joint as they are all greased from the factory.

All aftermarket quality lower ball joints are greasable with a grease zerk in the upper corner of the ball joint. The cheaper ones have a zerk that you grease them once they are in and then you remove the zerk and install a plug. Look up carlini and dynatrac for reference

Here

So your saying you can't remove the plug once the ball joint is intstalled and screw in a 90* zerk, grease the joint, and then reinstall the plug?

I realize there is not enough clearance to leave a grease zerk installed and drive the truck, but every ball joint I have seen at least has enough clearance;,,, to do what I mentioned above. If you can't do that then I wouldn't even bother buying a serviceable joint. They all come from the factory greased so there is no reason to buy something with a hole in the top of it if you can't use it.

Edited September 2, 201410 yr by diesel4life

Thanks for the input guys, If both Spicers are greasable I'll go that route, if not the Moogs. I know both of the Moogs have zerk fittings. Supposedly Spicer sealed u-joints have a longer life than the greasble ones, and that was one of my questions, to grease or not to grease? 

http://www.dynatrac.com/products/freespin-dodge/dynatrac-ball-joints.html

This will be my next set when my MOOGS wear out.

Ordered the spicers from dennys driveshaft, I don't think the top ball joint is greasable on either brand. Now I just need to find the right cup set for my press...I have an OTC press with some generic cup sizes and I can only find master kits for ungodly amounts of money. Anyone have any info/tricks or part numbers? Thanks.

I also went with Dana Spicer from Dennys Driveshaft, 

 

 

My moogs lasted less than 30k.  I have been VERY uinhappy with Moog stuff lately.  My moog tie rod ends are already starting to get loose.  I must have less than 10k on them. 

Edited September 3, 201410 yr by me78569

@CTcummins24V  @Me78569 sorry to bring up an old thread, but curious about the below upper/lower ball joints from Dennys Driveshafts. How did they, or are they still holding up after a few years? I am in the process of redoing my front end and gathering parts now. Since the Dana upper/lowers are better priced than Moog, it makes me wonder if the quality was any good.

 

Edited December 29, 20177 yr by Red Rambler

Just a reminder Moog is no longer US made.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just a reminder Moog is no longer US made.

Yep, and from what I am reading the quality is no longer there with Moog. I guess its a toss of the hat no matter what. The Dana uppers/lowers are looking better and better.

My dana ones lasted ~50k,  I am now using rayebestos pro joints.  Still very tight.  

Funny part I got some cheap ball joints off of Rock Auto and still running on them. (Invoice 4/2011)

 

RAYBESTOS 5051288B (Economy) Service Grade

RAYBESTOS 5001108B (Economy) Service Grade

 

Edited December 29, 20177 yr by Mopar1973Man

I don't have many miles on them, less than 10k so I can't speak to longevity. I had issues with the lower ball joint nut coming loose. I torqued it to spec on jacks, it loosened. Then torqued it on the ground, it loosened again. Then I drilled it, put a castle nut and pin on it. . 

For 2001 2WD truck w/ riveted ball joints, do most folks get new control arms, or drill the old ones out?   I bought Moog's although now I'm second guessing myself.

56 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

My dana ones lasted ~50k,  I am now using rayebestos pro joints.  Still very tight.  

 

Off to rockauto I go! I have had good luck with Raybestos, 1/2 ton truck stuff though.

Edited December 29, 20177 yr by Red Rambler