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Ball Joints?


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Dana 60 4x4...Moog problem solvers or oem Danas? The Danas are a little cheaper for one side, about $70 and Moogs are about $90. Any input as far as quality or longevity? Because this is lengthy and annoying job, I don't want to replace them again anytime soon. Thanks  

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Dynatrac recently started making ball joints for second gen trucks. they would get my vote hands down. Last set you will ever install and IF they ever wear out they are rebuild able without removing. They are pricey though so probably not the best option if you don't plan on keeping your truck.

Back to the choices you mentioned, Are the Spicers gareas able or sealed? I would not put a sealed ball joint in my truck after seeing the condition of my OEM joints. They were so dry they were full of dust. If they would have been servicable I'd probably still have them in the truck. As it was they only lasted less than 75k miles.

I've Got the MOOG Problem Solvers in my truck and so far so good. Only appr. 40K on them so far though. Just be careful when ordering your not buying knurled joints. These are designed for control arms that are too worn out for standard sized ball joints and will stretch the bore of an otherwise good control arm.If you have to replace the ball joints again in the future you may have to replace the control arms.

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I'm not aware of any lower ball joints that allow you to leave the grease fitting in place all the time. Most that I have seen come with a 90* zerk and a plug. Remove the plug install 90 to service then reinstall plug. This should be able to be done with the ball joint in the truck.

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So your saying you can't remove the plug once the ball joint is intstalled and screw in a 90* zerk, grease the joint, and then reinstall the plug?

I realize there is not enough clearance to leave a grease zerk installed and drive the truck, but every ball joint I have seen at least has enough clearance;,,, to do what I mentioned above. If you can't do that then I wouldn't even bother buying a serviceable joint. They all come from the factory greased so there is no reason to buy something with a hole in the top of it if you can't use it.

Edited by diesel4life
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Thanks for the input guys, If both Spicers are greasable I'll go that route, if not the Moogs. I know both of the Moogs have zerk fittings. Supposedly Spicer sealed u-joints have a longer life than the greasble ones, and that was one of my questions, to grease or not to grease? 

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Ordered the spicers from dennys driveshaft, I don't think the top ball joint is greasable on either brand. Now I just need to find the right cup set for my press...I have an OTC press with some generic cup sizes and I can only find master kits for ungodly amounts of money. Anyone have any info/tricks or part numbers? Thanks.

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I also went with Dana Spicer from Dennys Driveshaft, 

 

 

My moogs lasted less than 30k.  I have been VERY uinhappy with Moog stuff lately.  My moog tie rod ends are already starting to get loose.  I must have less than 10k on them. 

Edited by me78569
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  • 3 years later...

@CTcummins24V  @Me78569 sorry to bring up an old thread, but curious about the below upper/lower ball joints from Dennys Driveshafts. How did they, or are they still holding up after a few years? I am in the process of redoing my front end and gathering parts now. Since the Dana upper/lowers are better priced than Moog, it makes me wonder if the quality was any good.

 

1382914226_Spicer708047BALLJOINTSETfor20

Edited by Red Rambler
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I don't have many miles on them, less than 10k so I can't speak to longevity. I had issues with the lower ball joint nut coming loose. I torqued it to spec on jacks, it loosened. Then torqued it on the ground, it loosened again. Then I drilled it, put a castle nut and pin on it. . 

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