I thought there was a procedure on here but I can't find it. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Connector tubes will not leak into your oil. Its returns to the tank via the line on the back of the head. Connector tube o-rings will cause hard starts when engine is cold and not when warm.

Try running your raptor on a keyed hot and see if it helps

It is hot when key is on. Same wiring as the original only I have it wired to the window circuit to disable it when cranking. If the tube O-rings do leak though where does that fuel go? I always thought too it would go into the oil.

 

Here are some pics for Rancherman. This is a new bed to replace my steel one that the PA. winters destroyed. The old bed was mounted this way and had the gooseneck ball mounted right to the bed. I figured if this mounting method could handle the stresses of pulling a trailer then it's a pretty good way to go. I also redid the bumper for this bed. It's great to hook a log chain to or straps for hauling hay plus it protects the tailboard. You will love your flatbed. I'll never go back. It's like having a tractor without a loader and then you put one on and realize now you have a tool you can really use. It's great for hauling hay... no more wheel wells or bed rails to fight with. Just a nice square stack you can easily strap down. And for firewood we now take my tractor(w/loader) and load the logs, bring them home, and buck them to size at our convenience. It will increase the usability of your truck three fold. Enjoy and if you need more info. let me know.

It goes through the fuel return in the head. The only place to get fuel in oil is the injector or injector o-ring. I would try connector tube o-rings first. They are easy to do

It goes through the fuel return in the head. The only place to get fuel in oil is the injector or injector o-ring. I would try connector tube o-rings first. They are easy to do

I've never done them. Do I just remove the lines, pull the tubes, and put back in w/ new O-rings? I don't need to pull valve cover, mess w/ injectors right?

To seat properly, I think you should loosen the injectors & go through the whole procedure.

Ed

Ive done it a dozen times and never pulled injectors. Never had any problems. I used a little lube on the o-rings and push until they click. There are some alignment balls on the connector tube that will point straight up when aligned. You will know what im talking about

Hey folks, thanks for all the replies! Yesterday I took Mopartech's advice and wired my LP back to run while cranking and after sitting a day it started, not very well but it did start. Shut it off and started again, shut it off and loaded my tools which took maybe 10 min. and it wouldn't start. Pulled the LP fuse and it started. With so many symptoms that don't seem to repeat consistently I'm not sure what's up but I'm going to start by putting new sealing washers everywhere, a new return T fitting, a new overflow valve, and new crossover tube O-rings. I have it all ordered from Cummins and it should show up next week. I'll let you know how I make out. If that does not work I guess a new VP is in my future. I don't know what else to replace  .

You should have it wired to wiper fuse so the lp stops while cranking. Sorry if I wasnt clear

You should have it wired to wiper fuse so the lp stops while cranking. Sorry if I wasnt clear

 I had it wired to the power window fuse which had fixed it for about 6 weeks. I thought you meant wire it hot again so I did and it helped...... but then it didn't. The gremlins have found me

Update: Ive replaced the overflow valve, connector tube O-rings, all sealing washers, and the return line T. Had a terrible time bleeding and getting it to start. For the first time in my diesel life I had to use Brake clean to get it going. After finally getting the lines to seal at the head, the next morn. it started pretty good. Drove 12 mi. shut off 10 min. started good again, drove 10 mi. shut off for 1.5 hr and a long crank. Next morn. a long crank but started w/ a puff of 1/2 white 1/2 black smoke. Only does this when cold. Only smoke at all while running is black if at all. Runs great once it's going. No codes.What do you suggest I do next? Only thing I can think is injectors or VP, and I'm leaning towards VP but hate to do a $1000 experiment. All along I assumed the white smoke is air in fuel. If it was bad pump timing wouldn't it smoke all the time? Am I right or wrong?

Have you left the fill cap loose?

Time to consider doing all the crossover tube o-rings and doubles checking all the sealing washer on the return lines at VP44 and return rail at the rear of the head. Then there is 3 square cut o-rings on the return tee that might be leaking.

He has already done those

Time to consider doing all the crossover tube o-rings and doubles checking all the sealing washer on the return lines at VP44 and return rail at the rear of the head. Then there is 3 square cut o-rings on the return tee that might be leaking.

Done

Have you left the fill cap loose?

Not yet but I did open and didn't hear a vacuum whoosh. I will try that and post back.

Most of the time white smoke at startup is a sign of failing injectors. I had one completely stuck open at one point and it would smoke white for a few blocks after start up in the morning. I think the hard start problems usually related to the VP will happen when the engine is warm, not cold.

 

The white smoke is usually just unburned fuel getting evaporated going out the tail pipe. Usually caused by a leaking injector dumping raw fuel into the cylinder.

When I would get vacuum in the tank it would only hard start after sitting for say 20-30 mins or more. When it would finally start it would dump white smoke. I highly doubt an injector (because they are rare to go out) if leaving the cap loose doesnt fix or help it, I would suspect vp. I have seen multiple pickups with hard starts because of vacuum in the last year. For some reason switching the lift pumps to the wiper fuses fixed the hard starts. Dont know if the pump running all the time overcomes the vacuum or what it does.

Well, I left the cap loose and yesterday morn it started well. Then when shut off for 10 min after being completely warm it gave a hard start. I brought it home, shut it off, waited 5 sec, and had to crank for 20 sec. to get it to start. This morning I had to crank twice for 30 sec each to get it to go. I think I've ruled out air in fuel because of the hard start after sitting only 5 sec. The problem never seems to consistently repeat itself and the truck is totally untrustworthy right now. In fact I'm running around with a 7/16 deep socket and a can of ether in the toolbox.I would think a bad injector would mean smoke all the time but maybe I'm wrong. I guess at this time I'll try a new VP. I don't mind spending $1000 if it fixes my problem but if it doesn't It's gonna be hard to swallow. Another thing I noticed while underneath yesterday was a steady stream of light smoke coming from the breather. I was parked downhill but I never noticed it before. I hope my second engine is not worn out at less than 190k.

Just for kicks I disconnected my Quad. No help. I want to try Blue Chip's trick and unplug the VP and give it only 12v. and ground to rule out bad crank, cam sensor. Just trying to wrap my brain around the injector suggestion. I always thought that raw unburned fuel would be black. So a leaking injector would smoke black at startup. I do get a small black puff when it starts easy. The white smoke comes with a hard start and clears up almost instantly, don't have to drive around the block. What does white smoke mean?

Oh, and I learned the smoke from the vent tube was caused by a vacuum leak I created by knocking the line off while doing the other work. Interesting how that works.