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I actually bought mine used I just threw up a link to show.

I'm about to pull a trigger on the ones you provided link to, I found that passenger and driver has different numbers, on a different form people say 047 and 048 are the ones you got both the same numbers? I guess you put stiffer spring in driver side for fuel tank and driver, I don't see how it would affected it that much anyway just checking. Thanks.

I'm editing this again sorry, so here is 2 links http://www.factorymopar.com/oemparts/dodge-120/52113987aa.html

And http://www.factorymopar.com/oemparts/dodge-120/52113988aa.html would this be left and right or should I get both 988 to be safe so I don't get one dodge and one civic spring. Has anyone used ether one of these sites? They look like a same one to me. Factorymopar.com and Moparpartsdiscounted.com

Edited by Dieselfuture
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I have ordered a lot of odd ball OEM only parts from them over the years and have had no issues at all.

 

OEM put many different spring part #'s numbers on both sides of the front for some reason over the years. :shrug:

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I have ordered a lot of odd ball OEM only parts from them over the years and have had no issues at all.

OEM put many different spring part #'s numbers on both sides of the front for some reason over the years. :shrug:

That makes me fill a little better, I think 988 is 5200lb and 987 is 5000lb or something like that, I ended up ordering both same.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looks good man. :cool:

 

From my experience of changing out several sets of front coils you can expect them to settle in about 3/8 of an inch average from new over a month or so.

You could have saved a few bucks on the track bar too by just getting an OEM style 3rd gen bar rather than an adjustable now you have a heim joint that will wear out and start clunking or rusty dry and squeak  same as the junk OEM tie rod end on the stock rod where as with OEM has bushings in both ends, especially since it is not the style of hiem joint you can grease unless I can't see the zerk in the pic......................just saying.  :thumb1:

 

In the end on my 02 after the plow springs and the ranch hand it sat about an inch higher in front than stock and still had a slight rake to it and it still sat good with a load and didn't look nose high at all.

 

On my 05 I just added 1.5 inch coil spacers with the ranch hand and it sits about 1 inch higher than stock with a very slight rake but almost level.

 

I am not a fan of heim joints if you didn't notice, they just do not hold up like bushings do over the haul and abuse.

 

I'm a newbie to the forum but joined to learn more.

 

I need to replace the track bar on my '00 Cummins 2500 4WD and noticed you mentioned a 3rd Gen OEM track bar in the above commments. Would that be a bolt on application for a '00 2500 4WD? I am replacing the front coil springs this weekend and thought about replacing the worn track bar at that time. Any particular model in the 3rd Gen to ask for? Thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance for the reply!

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I'm a newbie to the forum but joined to learn more.

 

I need to replace the track bar on my '00 Cummins 2500 4WD and noticed you mentioned a 3rd Gen OEM track bar in the above commments. Would that be a bolt on application for a '00 2500 4WD? I am replacing the front coil springs this weekend and thought about replacing the worn track bar at that time. Any particular model in the 3rd Gen to ask for? Thoughts?

 

Thanks in advance for the reply!

You need to buy a bolt on conversion bracket for the frame end to go along with the 3rd gen track bar. I don't believe there is any difference in the OEM 3rd gen track bars 2500 or 3500 just source the cheapest one you can find, most all the diesel parts sites carry the conversion bracket as well.

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Still haven't got an alignment, but here she is...

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Couple of Questions for you. First, what size tires do you run and second, would you please do me a big favor and measure how much clearance you have between the tire and closest contact point at full lock? I am ready to buy a set but not sure that I will clear my 285/75/17s. I would be most grateful!

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Couple of Questions for you. First, what size tires do you run and second, would you please do me a big favor and measure how much clearance you have between the tire and closest contact point at full lock? I am ready to buy a set but not sure that I will clear my 285/75/17s. I would be most grateful!

 

33s, 285/75r16. I'm back on the east coast visiting my family and won't be back to Ohio/my truck till the weekend. 

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No problem, I won't be ordering until after the new year any way. My tires are 34" so if your not experiencing any rubbing I should be OK as I'll only be a half inch taller from the hub out, but would like to be sure if at all possible.

Have a happy new year!

Edited by diesel4life
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No problem, I won't be ordering until after the new year any way. My tires are 34" so if your not experiencing any rubbing I should be OK as I'll only be a half inch taller from the hub out, but would like to be sure if at all possible.

Have a happy new year!

 

Happy New Year! As far as I know I have no rubbing. Didn't have any with stock front end, I don't see how a leveling it would change it. My truck had 305s on it when I got it and there were no wear marks.

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I am just wondering how much clearance you have at full lock so that I can get an idea of whether or not my 34s will rub.

I also ran 285/75/16s on a stock front end, but my 17s have a slightly different offset than the OEM 16s. Right now I am running +2 and a half inch coil springs but want to drop the front end as much as possible without rubbing. My only options are a +2" coil spring or the plow springs, but not knowing how much lift they will give me makes it hard to drop the cash on a set and go through all the work just to find out I don't have enough clearance.

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Running 285's on all of my 2nd gens they all rubbed on the bent up lip of the lower control arms with factory rims, I just heated and bent or ground the area off on them problem solved, on my 02 I had aftermarket control arms and there was little to no contact on them, I could see rub marks after being off road but nothing I ever noticed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am just wondering how much clearance you have at full lock so that I can get an idea of whether or not my 34s will rub.

I also ran 285/75/16s on a stock front end, but my 17s have a slightly different offset than the OEM 16s. Right now I am running +2 and a half inch coil springs but want to drop the front end as much as possible without rubbing. My only options are a +2" coil spring or the plow springs, but not knowing how much lift they will give me makes it hard to drop the cash on a set and go through all the work just to find out I don't have enough clearance.

 

JR, haven't forgot about you. I've been traveling like a mad man and I'm in Oklahoma this weekend. I'll get back to you next weekend. I'll do a comparison to the new rim I got too, 4.5" backspacing, no offset.

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I am just wondering how much clearance you have at full lock so that I can get an idea of whether or not my 34s will rub.

I also ran 285/75/16s on a stock front end, but my 17s have a slightly different offset than the OEM 16s. Right now I am running +2 and a half inch coil springs but want to drop the front end as much as possible without rubbing. My only options are a +2" coil spring or the plow springs, but not knowing how much lift they will give me makes it hard to drop the cash on a set and go through all the work just to find out I don't have enough clearance.

From my experience with a couple of friends 2nd gens and mine width is your enemy...  If you can turn and drive with out rubbing(which won't happen) you can put a 37 inch tire in that hole with out much issue height wise (even under articulation) on a stock suspension that being said turning, control arms, and fender corners with all give you trouble with a tire of that size.  other hand is 34's with different wheels you may be ok I think it's only a quarter or half inch difference in offset between the 16's and 17's :2cents:   

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I am just wondering how much clearance you have at full lock so that I can get an idea of whether or not my 34s will rub.

I also ran 285/75/16s on a stock front end, but my 17s have a slightly different offset than the OEM 16s. Right now I am running +2 and a half inch coil springs but want to drop the front end as much as possible without rubbing. My only options are a +2" coil spring or the plow springs, but not knowing how much lift they will give me makes it hard to drop the cash on a set and go through all the work just to find out I don't have enough clearance.

 

With the front off the ground there is no rubbing what so ever. No control arm rubbing, maybe an 1" or more of clearance. I don't know what the clearance is when everything is sitting on the ground, with my 285/75 r16s. Stock 2nd gen rims have 6.5" backspacing. My new rim has 4.5" backspacing, with way more clearance underneath.

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Thanks for this post and replies, I got both 988 left and right and works great. About 3/4 to 1" of lift up front, and ride is great too. Exactly what I was hoping for.

An update, now that I had them in for a while and got my bumper on which is about 200 lb at least, all 1/4 with 1/2 brackets. At first with factory bumper and 988's I gained almost an inch, now with new bumper and some time to settle in I'm at about 5/8 over stock. Glad I didn't go with any kind of spacers.

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Edited by Dieselfuture
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