4x4 hubs didn't lock in

[Squatinbull]

Earlier this evening I was called out to pull out a couple of stuck vehicles. Including a car and a chevy 1500 HD (not that it pertains to my issue). When I threw the lever for 4 low I realized after I climbed in the hole that the light never came on and the truck wouldn't engage the front wheels. After checking under the truck I found the two vacuum hoses that control the diaphragm locking mechanism had pulled out. I shoved them back in their original place and eventually pulled both vehicles free after dropping the hammer in 3rd gear.

My question is, does this happen often? Is there a good fix besides just repairing the hose connections? Is there a better product I should purchase such as manual locking hubs.

2000 3/4 4x4 srw, qclw, nv4500, s&b intake, straight pipe, edge juice w/ att. Rv275,

[MnTom]

Even if you have the manual hubs you still have the CAD that locks in the front axle. You may need to replace the vacuum hoses to get them to stay on again.

[CSM]

Ultimate fix, is to lock the CAD and install free spin hubs.  The 2002 trucks don't have a CAD, to no detriment to its drivability.  

[Cowboy]

I've found small zip ties work good to keep the vacuum lines in place.  

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

I haven't installed it yet but you could try this.

Edited January 13, 2015 by Buzzinhalfdozen

[Squatinbull]

I preciate the replys, as of now I'm gonna stick with zip ties. Between those and 9/16 bolts I don't know how I'd get through a day anyhow.

Buzz, I like the thought of the manual cable hook up, if I'm thinking of this correctly, wouldn't that also give me the ability to have a 2low? To be honest that would be nice.

[rancherman]

I haven't installed it yet but you could try this.

mine is  on the way..    ordered last  Fri.

 

and  yes   2wd low   is   a  benefit.

 

Squatingbull,      our problems    are  the  sliding  collar that  connects  the  two  axles...   Our  factory  hubs  are  not    'dis engageable'.   (man,  that's a  new word)  

 

There's  2  things  happening  inside that little  aluminum  housing..   first,  there is  a  shift fork that   is  actuated  by vacuum,   and  the other is  a  switch  that  indicates  if  the   dumb thing is   completely  positioned or not.       

 

When your vacuum   came off the other  time,  it probably sucked up  some  crud, snow,  whatever...   and    it's  slow to  respond..     I've  replaced  a lot of the   vacuum  switches  on the transfer case  over the  years  that were rusted, gunked up.. probably where the  crud and  water goes  when the line  falls off. 

 

When  you have  tires  that are not quite  equal  front to rear,   that  can  make engagement    quite  a  battle too.

 

If you go with   manual hubs,   like   CSM  said,    you'd   just lock  this  shift fork over  into  'lock'..  I've  used  a stack of  washers to hold  it in place.

Edited January 13, 2015 by rancherman

[Squatinbull]

Makes sense to me. And after talking with a friend of mine at dodge that is the tranny and diff guy... he said he has personally fished new vacuum hose on his truck twice now. He is going with a yukon kit to put free spin hubs and a solid axle shady to rid himself of the sliding collar.

Sounds like a plan to me.

[Dieselfuture]

Man I'd love to have a set of them free spinners but for the price of $1700 I might just find a used 79 d60 out of ford with king pins and rebuilt it and put leaf springs in front. More work but might be cheaper or same price if a guy gets lucky, then parts would be more available, and going to leaf springs might help in certain way. I was thinking about it some day sooner or later will have to dump money in front end might as well convert. But right now just dreaming.