Use of Anit Seize

[Hawkez]

I am installing new rotors on my truck, hopefully tomorrow. I have issues with rust and really fought getting my hub/rotors free from the truck.  If I use anti seize on the 4 hub/bearing bolts, axle nut, and extension lug bolts, would that cause any issues or would I risk those bolts/nuts loosening over time?  The FSM mentions using anti seize on the splines of the splines of the front drive shaft, but nothing else.  Thanks for the help.

[rancherman]

I goop up  EVERYTHING.   Even put a thin layer  between the rotor and hub.    Hub to knuckle, even some on  the  splash shield so it won't rust to the knuckle..  EVERYTHING.  Thin layer is  key.. you don't want  to  'hydraulic lock'  a large  flat  surface.

 

I've never had  a  fastener  back off,   Probably because  when a fastener  says  it needs  'x' amount of  ft. lbs,      I'll    take it  to that spec..   and  when there is    this   'lube'  in there,  it's  probably  even  tighter...   (so be careful  on smaller  fasteners when  torqueing...  It may be  easier to bust one!)

 

Then in a couple years  when it's time to do it again,   you be smiling!

Edited February 9, 2015 by rancherman

[Hawkez]

I goop up  EVERYTHING.   Even put a thin layer  between the rotor and hub.    Hub to knuckle, even some on  the  splash shield so it won't rust to the knuckle..  EVERYTHING.  Thin layer is  key.. you don't want  to  'hydraulic lock'  a large  flat  surface.

 

I've never had  a  fastener  back off,   Probably because  when a fastener  says  it needs  'x' amount of  ft. lbs,      I'll    take it  to that spec..   and  when there is    this   'lube'  in there,  it's  probably  even  tighter...   (so be careful  on smaller  fasteners when  torqueing...  It may be  easier to bust one!)

 

Then in a couple years  when it's time to do it again,   you be smiling!

That was my plan, I just didn't want to do all that and then find out that I shouldn't have.  Thanks

[Wild and Free]

On all brake components I use it liberally on all of my vehicles.

[Mopar1973Man]

Same here... Most all axle hardware I use anti-seize. But around brake parts I'm very careful to keep it thin and keep it off of brake parts.

[freedomisntfree]

While in the marine corps, we had to put 60+ amphibious vehicles on blocks and take out every single bolt off the track system to put antiseize and retorque.... after years of constant salt water abuse and every climate u can think of.... no more bloody knuckles.. that stuff does wonders. Now every bolt I take off on my truck gets a coat off antiseize.

[CSM]

A word of caution.  Anti seize is conductive and should not be used on electrical connectors... And be very careful to never get any on spark plug insulators. Just a tiny bit on the spark plug threads is sufficient. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Down at Lindy's shop Anti-seize is a commonly used supply. Everything from lugs nuts, to front-end hardware, you name it. I also use it in spark plugs. It really does make removal later a snap. Thanks CSM about the conductive warning I'll remember that.

[Wild and Free]

Down at Lindy's shop Anti-seize is a commonly used supply. Everything from lugs nuts, to front-end hardware, you name it. I also use it in spark plugs. It really does make removal later a snap. Thanks CSM about the conductive warning I'll remember that.

There is a reason most all new spark plugs are nickel coated.  

Not needed as they build it into the plug material now days taking into account the dissimilar metals they are used in.

In short a small and I mean small amount on the threads will not hurt but will not do much as you are putting nickel antiseize on a nickel plated plug.

[Mopar1973Man]

True, But the plug hole could be aluminium or cast iron so the little anti-seize is still a plus when you have people that drive till the electrodes are gone. 

[diesel4life]

I also use antisieze on everything. Lug nuts, brake components, the backs of wheels, all steering/suspension components, universal joint straps/bolts, etc. Basically everything under the truck that is subjected to the weather. I use the nickel base rather than the copper, for some reason it is a thinner consistency than the copper base and also keeps that consistency in frigid weather. The copper based antisieze gets very thick, almost hard in cold weather. It also seems to resist wash out better. This is the Bostik brand and the only brand I use (get a GREAT deal on the stuff), so other brands may be different.

As mentioned above, Anti Seize does affect torque values substantially. Depending on fastener size, thread pitch, etc, as much as 20-30% according to Bostik.

[Wild and Free]

Copper is generally for high temp applications like exhaust studs ect.

Yes it absolutely does affect torque, in my heavy duty mine equipment specs like Cat generally gives torque values of some fasteners dry, oiled and antiseized and where to and not to use any at all and it can make like d4l said 20-30% difference in torque values.

[diesel4life]

Copper is generally for high temp applications like exhaust studs ect.

Yes it absolutely does affect torque, in my heavy duty mine equipment specs like Cat generally gives torque values of some fasteners dry, oiled and antiseized and where to and not to use any at all and it can make like d4l said 20-30% difference in torque values.

The label on my can of Bostik copper antisieze says its good to 1800 degrees and the can of Nickel antisieze says its good to 2400 degrees.

We use both of these at work on studs and gaskets. For example, the 36" off gas piping at the outlet of our reactors can reach temps up to 1000 degrees. The piping is lined with 4.5" of high temperature refractory, so the actual temperature of the steel usually does not exceed 300 degrees. The piping is bolted together with 24 - 7/8" studs. Typically the reactors will last anywhere from 15-24 months before they need to be taken off line to be rebricked, and the off gas piping up top will be taken apart and flown down to be relined. We have used both types (copper and nickel), and the nickel grade always seems to last longer. Even though the copper grade is thicker, the heat flashes it off quicker than the nickel grade.

Edited March 8, 2015 by diesel4life

[Wild and Free]

Your right my mistake on the temp range.

 

Did some looking and found this on a site.

 

I. Product Description
CRC Copper Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a general purpose anti-seize lubricant that prevents seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration and corrosion. This unique formula has a smooth texture, fine particle sizing and familiar copper color, making it an excellent choice for closely fitted parts that need extreme lubrication. Regular use of Copper Anti-Seize will increase performance and prolong equipment life.
II. Applications
Recommended to lubricate fittings, bushings, flanges, headers, nuts, screws, studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and
manifolds to prevent seizing and galling of surfaces.
III. Features & Benefits
• Copper-Based. Safe for use on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
• High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 1800° F.
• Electrically Conductive. Does not insulate and interrupt current flow.
• Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of soft metals.
• Will Not Harden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product.
• Facilitates Fast & Easy Disassembly. Saves time in taking apart components.

 

 

I. Product Description
CRC Nickel Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a nickel-based formulation that is free of copper, lead, sulfides and chlorides. This premium high temperature lubricant protects metal-to-metal applications from seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration, chemicals and corrosion. Chemically inert nickel formulation is safe for use with most chemicals that are unstable with copper. This product has extremely high temperature capabilities and excellent chemical resistance. Regular use of Nickel Anti-Seize will increase performance and prolong equipment life.
II. Applications
Recommended to lubricate metal-to-metal applications where a clean, chemically inert, copper-free formulation is necessary. Will not poison catalyst beds, reaction chambers, or special alloy fittings. May be used on fittings,
bushings, flanges, headers, nuts, screws, studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and manifolds to prevent seizing and galling of surfaces.
III. Features & Benefits
• Copper-Free Formulation. For use where a clean, chemically inert and stable lubricant is required.
• Extremely High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 2400° F.
• Electrically Conductive. Does not insulate and interrupt current flow.
• Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of soft metals.
• Safe For Use on Both Ferrous and Non-Ferrous Metals.
• Will Not Harden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product.
• Resistant to Mild Detergents & Alkaline Wash. Protects against rust and corrosion.
• Facilitates Fast & Easy Disassembly. Saves time in taking apart components.

 

[klcammie]

Here in the rust belt of southeast Ohio anti-seize is best friend. Thanks for this post as went out and checked mine and am getting low, oh well needed an excuse to go to the store.

Edited March 8, 2015 by klcammie

[Mopar1973Man]

Here in the rust belt of southeast Ohio anti-seize is best friend. Thanks for this post as went out and checked mine and am getting low, oh well needed an excuse to go to the store.

 

Idaho is no better between the amount of mud and the salt they put on the highways. Anti-seize in the only way to go. I've seen the damage that can happen from a rusted fastener or the amount of struggling to separate two parts that are rusted together.