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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins


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This is while lugging it at 1200 rpm. The explanation is simple. The turbine runs off exhaust volume, heat is artificial exhaust volume, if you have enough heat, the turbine will get enough energy out of the exhaust to drive the compressor without the need of as much back pressure.

Turbos have the possibility of running more boost then drive pressure easily. The problem is we want quick spooling and high flowing... so the turbine is setup for the higher RRM's while the housing is sized for the lower RPMs. I was looking at some dyno logs earlier, a 2000+ hp engine was making 90 psi of boost on a single turbo with 70 psi of drive pressure, EGT's were sub 1200 (I'm sure they had plenty of water injection).

Heat is the driving force of a turbo. On a diesel the exhaust volume is high but our exhaust gas temps are low when compared to a gasoline powered vehicle.

Now on the topic of heat. The OE cast iron manifold retains heat very well but heat is also rejected through the manifold through conduction of the hot exhaust gas then convection of the heat that the manifold has absorbed. So the easy cheap way to address this is to use a heavier(thicker walled) exhaust manifold from an RV or an industrial application. The other is the use of 304 stainless steel which in its nature has a high tolerance to the heat within it. Stainless steel also reflects heat that is within the manifold and increases the driving force on the turbo. This is a marginal difference but every last bit helps.

To answer the 2000 hp engine heat explanation. Water methanol injection is common for those engines.

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I've had a couple of days behind the wheel of my "new" curve( just closing the vanes across the board by 1cm-2cm, and the difference is huge.

 

The truck seems to always be ready to jump out of it's own pants.  Smoke is down significantly, and boost/power across the board is way better.  

 

 

The top end WOT vane position is now SLIGHTLY overspeeding what I like, but I can make some changes to handle that.  

 

 

Still mulling over how I want the cruise positions to behave when you step on the gas beyond the %20 throttle it takes to cruise.   

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I've had a couple of days behind the wheel of my "new" curve( just closing the vanes across the board by 1cm-2cm, and the difference is huge.

 

The truck seems to always be ready to jump out of it's own pants.  Smoke is down significantly, and boost/power across the board is way better.  

 

 

The top end WOT vane position is now SLIGHTLY overspeeding what I like, but I can make some changes to handle that.  

 

 

Still mulling over how I want the cruise positions to behave when you step on the gas beyond the %20 throttle it takes to cruise.   

 

Seems your close to perfection. Yes, I do believe the load percentage should be the best way to auto remove the cruising program and enter a power or more boost program that tightens up the vanes.

 

 

Here is another question I know was an issue for me. If you are at WOT and quickly lift the throttle do you get a chirping noise from the back feeding from the air? 

 

If so the reason for it is the actuator can not react fast enough to compensate for the drive pressure on the turbine side dropping off and the boost pressure rapidly exiting the inlet of the compressor. I have been on the phone with others in the past that have had the same issues and the way to correct this was to loosen up the vanes some. This was also using the Fleece Performance VGT controller. 

Edited by Vais01
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I sometimes if You are running VERY hard yes it will chirp, 

 

However my code is set to go vanes wide open if turbo speed is over 75,000 and TPS i below %5.  I never get any barking unless I pull out of the throttle VERY quick with the Quadzilla turned all the way up and at 2,500 rpm at WOT.

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I sometimes if You are running VERY hard yes it will chirp, 

 

However my code is set to go vanes wide open if turbo speed is over 75,000 and TPS i below %5.  I never get any barking unless I pull out of the throttle VERY quick with the Quadzilla turned all the way up and at 2,500 rpm at WOT.

For some reason when I had set my max boost at 30 PSI I would never get a chirp but anything higher would produce a chirp and shudder of the turbo. 

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Yea. I'd say 20% of the time I will get a chirp if that high and I left off quickly. I think this is due to the Arduino doing something else right when I lift and that delay causing the vanes to not jump open.

If all you have is a single small chirp your just fine. My controller would not act fast enough probably because it did not use load as an input.

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Got ya.

 

Yea I don't think ANY he351ve controller besides mine and www.lilbb.com's controller takes shaft speed into consideration.

 

 

Did about 250 miles today at 80 mph, work trip so mpg lol.....   The turbo just sings.   The truck feels great, injectors, timing, and canbus fueling make it nice to drive at 80 all day long.  Mpgs seem pretty steady around 17-18.  

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Got ya.

Yea I don't think ANY he351ve controller besides mine and www.lilbb.com's controller takes shaft speed into consideration.

Did about 250 miles today at 80 mph, work trip so mpg lol..... The turbo just sings. The truck feels great, injectors, timing, and canbus fueling make it nice to drive at 80 all day long. Mpgs seem pretty steady around 17-18.

80 MPH at 17.5 average fuel economy is not too shabby.

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