Advanced timing with Blue Chip Special X VP44

[Greenlee]

Just throwing this out there since I haven't seen any mention of it yet but have you tried the simple things like a new air filter or checking for boost leaks?

Thanks for the tips bjytech, my filters are good but I have not checked for boost leaks yet. I don't have a gauge for boost or EGTs but I did put on a temporary fuel pressure gauge on at the top of the fuel filter in the plug closed to the center of the filter top. I don't know why I didn't take the entire intake manifold apart and reseal everything. I don't think it would be too difficult to do when I put the new injectors and connector tubes in the engine. I have slowly continued to spend money on this Dodge especially when I determined I could budget it in but there is a limit to reach before you are completely south with no opportunity to get your money out of it. I have $13,000.00 in physical parts plus the cost of the truck. That doesn't include filters being change and fluids. I don't know how you can possibly look on eBay or the internet and see 24 valve trucks selling from $18,000 to $29,000 and even a couple in the $30K bracket. Are they just that good and why don't I see the same value or dollar mark that is advertised. I haven't towed any big items with mine except a 4000 pound boat and that was slow going but no issues, I get great mileage in town and on the road. Is it worth putting more money into this 2500 Cummings, you don't have to answer that I am having one of those days where it is all piled up and I haven't found a starting point to dig my way back out. I have learned a bunch on this one topic alone. I know I haven't scratched the surface in doing so. I will admit I enjoy working on my truck even if it's not me pulling wrenches, I'm still involved. I am sorry for getting so far out on a simple question and I am going to check for boost leaks. Can you give me any pointers on doing this, a spray bottle with diesel in it?????

[Greenlee]

Reply to quotes #37, #38, and #39

The video and links were great for information to help me understand the VP44 injection pump. I appreciate the exploded view of the pump showing all the parts and where they are located. I would like to see any pictures that show the fuel going into the pump and how it compresses the fuel into the pressures needed to operate the injectors. I found a video on YouTube showing the fuel going into the injector and lifting it off the seat with pressure from the injector pump. I looked at the picture of the PSG unit, is this the computer that goes through the heat cycles? How does it control the timing in the pump and from 0 degrees how far can it advance the timing in degrees? Can you send me some pictures of the working parts that cause the fuel pressure and pictures of the timing mechanism? Maybe the newly adjusted injectors will make a big difference in the smoke that was pouring out the exhaust. Regardless I need to know how to deal with this issue, make adjustments or add more devices as needed to continue driving a dependable Cummings.

[Mopar1973Man]

I would like to see any pictures that show the fuel going into the pump and how it compresses the fuel into the pressures needed to operate the injectors.

 

This is what pumps the fuel up to a minimum of 4,500 PSI

 

The 3 pins are actually the pistons. All three piston pump at the same time from the roller and shoes that follow the cam gear.

 

I looked at the picture of the PSG unit, is this the computer that goes through the heat cycles?

 

Yes. But the cooling is done through the fuel not the cover lid. You notice the circuit board is in direct contact with the aluminum housing. So the fuel is the cooling agent. This why the minimum for 14 PSI became the normal now because this insures the overflow valve is open instantly when the truck is started.

 

How does it control the timing in the pump and from 0 degrees how far can it advance the timing in degrees?

 

Ok. I really don't have a good picture for this so I'll just type it. The PSG commands timing advancement. It open a solenoid valve to allow fuel pressure from the vane pump to push the timing piston advance. This in turns the cam gear in the housing which now advanced the lobes that the roller and shoes pump the fuel. The tone wheel can sense if the timing actually advanced or not (P0216). Now as for how much I wanted to measure the stroke of the piston and degree change of the cam ring. But the pump I have is P0216 pump. The timing piston is so bad that in cold temperatures you physically can't move the piston. The only way I can get it to move is to heat the pump body with a propane torch and even then its still hard. I wanted to fix the timing piston with a file and debur it but the timing piston is harden steel and tool file will not even scratch it. So I'm sorry I can't answer the degree span.

 

Can you send me some pictures of the working parts that cause the fuel pressure and pictures of the timing mechanism?

 

As for the timing section.

 

Here is the cam ring and the timing piston.

 

The timing piston slides in the housing twisting the came ring advanced or retard.

 

Now you see the roller and shoes that follow the cam ring.

 

So the tip of the rotor assembly fits down in the middle of the 3 shoes and the pistons line up with the shoes.

 

Here is the fuel pump and distributor disassembled.

 

The infamous "Cracked Diaphragm" which doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps. This is again a harden steel plate covered with plastic to hold the o-ring. This will not crack.

 

As you can see anyone could actually rebuild there own pumps if they wanted too. There is nothing really all that difficult to doing the mechanical part of the pump.  The programming and calibration on a Bosch 815 test stand that is the magic that no one can do...

 

 

 

driving a dependable Cummings.

Just to let you know... It's Cummins. Not Cummings.

[Greenlee]

This is what pumps the fuel up to a minimum of 4,500 PSI

 

The 3 pins are actually the pistons. All three piston pump at the same time from the roller and shoes that follow the cam gear.

 

 

Yes. But the cooling is done through the fuel not the cover lid. You notice the circuit board is in direct contact with the aluminum housing. So the fuel is the cooling agent. This why the minimum for 14 PSI became the normal now because this insures the overflow valve is open instantly when the truck is started.

 

 

Ok. I really don't have a good picture for this so I'll just type it. The PSG commands timing advancement. It open a solenoid valve to allow fuel pressure from the vane pump to push the timing piston advance. This in turns the cam gear in the housing which now advanced the lobes that the roller and shoes pump the fuel. The tone wheel can sense if the timing actually advanced or not (P0216). Now as for how much I wanted to measure the stroke of the piston and degree change of the cam ring. But the pump I have is P0216 pump. The timing piston is so bad that in cold temperatures you physically can't move the piston. The only way I can get it to move is to heat the pump body with a propane torch and even then its still hard. I wanted to fix the timing piston with a file and debur it but the timing piston is harden steel and tool file will not even scratch it. So I'm sorry I can't answer the degree span.

 

 

As for the timing section.

 

Here is the cam ring and the timing piston.

DSCF6110.JPG

 

The timing piston slides in the housing twisting the came ring advanced or retard.

 

Now you see the roller and shoes that follow the cam ring.

DSCF6163.JPG

 

So the tip of the rotor assembly fits down in the middle of the 3 shoes and the pistons line up with the shoes.

 

Here is the fuel pump and distributor disassembled.

DSCF6180.JPG

 

The infamous "Cracked Diaphragm" which doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps. This is again a harden steel plate covered with plastic to hold the o-ring. This will not crack.

DSCF6181.JPG

 

As you can see anyone could actually rebuild there own pumps if they wanted too. There is nothing really all that difficult to doing the mechanical part of the pump.  The programming and calibration on a Bosch 815 test stand that is the magic that no one can do...

 

 

Just to let you know... It's Cummins. Not Cummings.

I saved the pictures to study later. This explanation and description helps clear up a lot of questions but I wish I had one to take apart to physically see the functions. I went back to the exploded view of the VP44, what a great diagram showing the order of it all goes together. How in the world does a person sit down and design this? He would have to have a factory backing him up to fabricate and heat treat all that is involved. I wonder how many pumps Bosch went through to work the bugs out. The pump reminds me of a VW oil pump and some oil pumps used on some V8 gas engines. Thank you for putting this together Michael, I am positive it cleared up a lot of questions for all who viewed this post.

 

How far does the timing piston move in the housing for advance and retarded timing?

Does the ball bearing ride against the rollers that compress the fuel to 4500psi?

Does the fuel pressure remain constant regardless of the RPMs, I know there is a drop in pressure at the filter or fuel in at the VP44 but does it change in the pump?

I don't know much about the "Cracked Diaphragm" conspiracy but after reading your description that it is a harden steel plate covered with plastic I have an idea.

 

HOW EMBARRASSING TO MISS SPELL CUMMINS , I LET THE SPELLING CHECK TAKE OVER AND DIDN'T DOUBLE CHECK IT'S CORRECTION, JUST HIT FIX IT. I can see why you want to throw me out of the Forum and repo my truck lol.

 

From what you are saying about the VP44 it is a master piece of engineering provided you have the proper amount of fuel pressure going to it to keep it cool and that the fuel is clean and filtered as best you can. If Dodge had started out with a better lift pump and pressure it might not have been such a disaster for Cummins owners in the beginning. I have a Raptor 100gph lift pump attached to the block where the original Carter pump was located. My pressure was low and that's my fault for not having a mechanical fuel gauge on it for the last 2 years. It was reading 12 psi at idle and 10 psi when you raised the RPMs. I turned it up to 16 psi at idle and 14 psi with added RPMs but when I rechecked it yesterday it now sits at 14 psi at idle. Maybe I need a better lift pump? I am going to turn it up again to 18 psi or 20 psi and see if it holds that pressure. I don't need to buy another injector pump right now. I hate I have issues driving a 5 speed because I don't want an automatic but sometime in the future I will have to change over. I might start another thread on converting mine to an auto with a built transmission, we will see.

Edited May 12, 2015 by SLT5Spd99

[Greenlee]

Michael I just noticed the tone rings position, do the 3 rollers push out and go in to follow the inside cam design of the ring?

[Mopar1973Man]

Exactly. The shoe rides against the piston inn the pump the rollers follow the cam ring.

[Mopar1973Man]

 

 

How far does the timing piston move in the housing for advance and retarded timing?

 

Sorry I can't answer that question because of damage to my pump I've got I can freely move the cam ring or the timing piston. (P0216 code)

 

Does the ball bearing ride against the rollers that compress the fuel to 4500psi?

 

 

The bearing supports the cage end of the shaft for the roller and shoes. The tip of the pump is inserted into the middle of the roller and shoes.

 

Does the fuel pressure remain constant regardless of the RPMs, I know there is a drop in pressure at the filter or fuel in at the VP44 but does it change in the pump?

 

The vane pump is suppose to increase the pressure inside the pump but I can't find any specification of what the pressure is inside the pump. Then also remember the VP44 is the same speed as the cam or 1/2 the speed of thee crank. so idle of 850 RPM's is a pump speed of 425 RPM's.

 

I don't know much about the "Cracked Diaphragm" conspiracy but after reading your description that it is a harden steel plate covered with plastic I have an idea.

 

Early version pumps use a rubber disk in here that could be damaged by low fuel pressure which cause it to tear or break. So Bosch rebuilder automatically voided warranty after finding a broken / tore diaphragm. So from my pump the 027 Rev pumps are steel plate so it really hard to tear / break that.
 

 

From what you are saying about the VP44 it is a master piece of engineering provided you have the proper amount of fuel pressure going to it to keep it cool and that the fuel is clean and filtered as best you can.

 

 

There is 4 ways to kill a VP44...

1. Dirty Power (AC noise from the alternator)
2. Low Fuel pressure (Less than 14 PSI)
3. Poor Filtration
4. Poor Fuel Lubricity (> 450 HFRR Score)

I am going to turn it up again to 18 psi or 20 psi and see if it holds that pressure.

 

 

You might want to pull the regulator and check it for damage or wear. If the regulator is hanging up or sticking then I can see why the pressure is falling. I never did like the adjustable fuel pressure Raptors or AirDog's. The old school spring and check ball work 1,000 times better.

[Greenlee]

Sorry I can't answer that question because of damage to my pump I've got I can freely move the cam ring or the timing piston. (P0216 code)

 

 

The bearing supports the cage end of the shaft for the roller and shoes. The tip of the pump is inserted into the middle of the roller and shoes.

 

 

The vane pump is suppose to increase the pressure inside the pump but I can't find any specification of what the pressure is inside the pump. Then also remember the VP44 is the same speed as the cam or 1/2 the speed of thee crank. so idle of 850 RPM's is a pump speed of 425 RPM's.

 

 

Early version pumps use a rubber disk in here that could be damaged by low fuel pressure which cause it to tear or break. So Bosch rebuilder automatically voided warranty after finding a broken / tore diaphragm. So from my pump the 027 Rev pumps are steel plate so it really hard to tear / break that.

 

 

There is 4 ways to kill a VP44...

1. Dirty Power (AC noise from the alternator)
2. Low Fuel pressure (Less than 14 PSI)
3. Poor Filtration
4. Poor Fuel Lubricity (> 450 HFRR Score)

 

You might want to pull the regulator and check it for damage or wear. If the regulator is hanging up or sticking then I can see why the pressure is falling. I never did like the adjustable fuel pressure Raptors or AirDog's. The old school spring and check ball work 1,000 times better.

Thanks for making it more clear on the operation of the VP44. I run 2 cycle oil in my fuel, makes a tremendous difference. I bought what I could afford at the time and that is how I ended up with a Raptor 100 gph pump. What pumps use a spring and check ball to regulate pressure? Every time I ask a question and get an answer I have a dozen more questions that come into play, this is constant learning if you want to be educated on taking care of your Cummins. It opens more issues to deal with. I need to build a boost device to check my boost, I thought you could use a spray bottle and some diesel fuel, what an idiot. I also need to figure a way to instal gauges...boost, fuel, and egts. I think I am spinning my wheels not knowing my engine settings and just like bjytech suggested on the smoke, I might have a boost leak and not know it. I know you are sold on mechanical gauges but what about the Edge screen that is just for keeping up with engine functionality, is it accurate enough or is a pillar setup better? I just looked a the thread on checking your alternator for AC leakage, I have a Fluke 75 multimeter to use. I guess I will be heading to the hardware store to round up what I need.

[Mopar1973Man]

What pumps use a spring and check ball to regulate pressure?

 

As far as I know the AirDog 100 and AirDog 150 still use spring and check ball. Where all the Raptor series and the AirDog 165 uses a adjustable regulator. Even FASS 100 and FASS 150 kept the spring and check ball design as far as I know.

 

I need to build a boost device to check my boost,

 

More or less cap off the mouth of the turbo any way you can and pressurize the system with compressed air in the range of 10-20 PSI. Like my cap only holds up to about 10 PSI and started to slide off the lip of the turbo. But with a bottle of soap water solution you can spray down all the fittings, sensors, gaskets, etc. looking for bubbles.

 

 

I also need to figure a way to instal gauges...boost, fuel, and egts.

 

For simple gauges that are rock solid do the ISSPro EV series mechanical gauges. If you don't mind spending some money and design time get the EV2's electrics. Thoses are nice but remember you need to deal with remote mounting the pressure sensors away from the water hammer source of the VP44. Both my sensors are mounted on the fender and has over 5 foot of tubing in between the engine and the sensor for protection.

 

 

Edge screen that is just for keeping up with engine functionality,

 

Personally I'm not exactly fond of Edge CTS or CS systems. Come back to the old adage "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." Well you put your tuner, gauges and other things in one basket so when it fails you lose everything and pay even more for the replacement each time. Modular design is best so if you lose a EGT gauge just replace one gauge for $100 bucks instead of entire tuner for $1,100.    

[Greenlee]

As far as I know the AirDog 100 and AirDog 150 still use spring and check ball. Where all the Raptor series and the AirDog 165 uses a adjustable regulator. Even FASS 100 and FASS 150 kept the spring and check ball design as far as I know.

 

 

More or less cap off the mouth of the turbo any way you can and pressurize the system with compressed air in the range of 10-20 PSI. Like my cap only holds up to about 10 PSI and started to slide off the lip of the turbo. But with a bottle of soap water solution you can spray down all the fittings, sensors, gaskets, etc. looking for bubbles.

 

 

For simple gauges that are rock solid do the ISSPro EV series mechanical gauges. If you don't mind spending some money and design time get the EV2's electrics. Thoses are nice but remember you need to deal with remote mounting the pressure sensors away from the water hammer source of the VP44. Both my sensors are mounted on the fender and has over 5 foot of tubing in between the engine and the sensor for protection.

 

 

Personally I'm not exactly fond of Edge CTS or CS systems. Come back to the old adage "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." Well you put your tuner, gauges and other things in one basket so when it fails you lose everything and pay even more for the replacement each time. Modular design is best so if you lose a EGT gauge just replace one gauge for $100 bucks instead of entire tuner for $1,100.    

I guess I will have to do some research or call the manufacturer to see if they are using spring/check ball to regulate pressure. I appreciate being educated on this.

 

What is considered a bad boost leak? I know you don't want any boost leak but if the drive ability hasn't changed how much boost do you lose to be noticed.

 

The last time I talked about gauges I got a little turned around and didn't move forward with it. I needed to know the brand (ISSPro EV), thanks again.

 

On the Edge, I thought they made a screen just for monitoring the engine but I didn't consider what you said having all of your eggs in one basket. I get it, good idea by the way.

 

Who makes a tuner that controls the fuel and timing separate and would it be good to use on my truck for fuel management? In case I still have a smoke issue when I change the injectors and connector tubes. Dynomite Diesel adjusted my injectors down a notch or two, said they were good to go. If I still have an issue I should look at the VP44 for the answer. This is the reason I started this thread. I have learned much reading my way through, but if I still have smoke I still have an issue and it could be nothing but the Special X and the way it is mechanically advanced. I regret buying from Blue Chip, not because of the product, but because of the lack of answers to questions I have personally presented to Chip Fisher. It was all fine while buying but now that I have had the product and put 10,000 miles on it, everybody else is at fault and the VP44 is perfect. I have a great VP44 but I can't use a tuner.

 

Maybe it would be cheaper in the long run to buy another VP44 that is stock and put mine up for sale with a big discount.

 

I think we are just about at the end of this one, Poor Mopar1973Man had to eat his lunch on the run because of all the questions, I want to thank all the members who contributed or gave me some great ideas to work on. Isn't this the best Forum on the Web!!!

[Mopar1973Man]

What is considered a bad boost leak?

 

Anything that can and will reduce pressure from normal. Like I've had a a single manifold bolt pop out 6mm thread but 10mm head. That was enough to drop from 30 PSI to a max of 8 PSI. But then another leak I had was a loose intercooler boot it would hiss with a test cap but never leaked enough to reduce my max boost pressure abilities.

 

 

Who makes a tuner that controls the fuel and timing separate and would it be good to use on my truck for fuel management?

 

Technically no one. But depends how you look at it.

 

Smarty allows for fuel only or fuel and timing. But no fuel vs boost control. Edge doesn't give fuel and timing separate but does give boost vs fuel control. TST is strictly fuel only. Quadzilla is another wonderful box with even more controls possible but currently I'm unsure of the state of manufacture. I know DAP owns the company now.

 

Dynomite Diesel adjusted my injectors down a notch or two, said they were good to go.

 

Why down? Assuming pop pressure. Higher pop pressure make for better atomization. Unless they changed nozzles and reduced the flow. So which is it? 

 

I have learned much reading my way through, but if I still have smoke I still have an issue and it could be nothing but the Special X and the way it is mechanically advanced.

 

As for the VP44 there is a certain amount of variable posed by the Special X which I can't answer for. Timing, PSG programming differences, internal hardware differences, etc. The only thing I could suggest at this time before you spend money on parts is see if you can get a hold of known good stock VP44 and swap it in and see if there is a change of smoke amount. If so then for sure you can point the finger at the Special X as a possible cause and then consider you replacement then. I really do hate to suggest replacing high dollar parts without proof of a problem or failure of said part.

 

I regret buying from Blue Chip, not because of the product, but because of the lack of answers to questions I have personally presented to Chip Fisher.

 

Not to poke at anyone... But as for me I have a really hard time with the smoke and mirror the entire Bosch VP44 market has kept up for all these years. I'm personally tired of the hiding specs and data on the VP44. Now like P7100 or VE pumps you can find documents and specs on those all day long. Now VP44... "Oh we can't tell you that its a trade secret". I'm uncovering data slowly and finding documents and information and posting what I do find.  Kind of a personal challenge. One day I will know what software is in the PSG unit top.

[CSM]

Wow. Great information mike. Seriously.

As for the water hammer I used a needle valve from mcmaster carr that is adjustable for my fuel px gauge. I could never get the stock isspro damper to work. It also doubles as a shutoff for the gauge, which is nice when I pulled my pillar mount due to mice eating the gauge line.

[Greenlee]

Anything that can and will reduce pressure from normal. Like I've had a a single manifold bolt pop out 6mm thread but 10mm head. That was enough to drop from 30 PSI to a max of 8 PSI. But then another leak I had was a loose intercooler boot it would hiss with a test cap but never leaked enough to reduce my max boost pressure abilities.

 

 

Technically no one. But depends how you look at it.

 

Smarty allows for fuel only or fuel and timing. But no fuel vs boost control. Edge doesn't give fuel and timing separate but does give boost vs fuel control. TST is strictly fuel only. Quadzilla is another wonderful box with even more controls possible but currently I'm unsure of the state of manufacture. I know DAP owns the company now.

 

 

Why down? Assuming pop pressure. Higher pop pressure make for better atomization. Unless they changed nozzles and reduced the flow. So which is it? 

 

 

As for the VP44 there is a certain amount of variable posed by the Special X which I can't answer for. Timing, PSG programming differences, internal hardware differences, etc. The only thing I could suggest at this time before you spend money on parts is see if you can get a hold of known good stock VP44 and swap it in and see if there is a change of smoke amount. If so then for sure you can point the finger at the Special X as a possible cause and then consider you replacement then. I really do hate to suggest replacing high dollar parts without proof of a problem or failure of said part.

 

 

Not to poke at anyone... But as for me I have a really hard time with the smoke and mirror the entire Bosch VP44 market has kept up for all these years. I'm personally tired of the hiding specs and data on the VP44. Now like P7100 or VE pumps you can find documents and specs on those all day long. Now VP44... "Oh we can't tell you that its a trade secret". I'm uncovering data slowly and finding documents and information and posting what I do find.  Kind of a personal challenge. One day I will know what software is in the PSG unit top.

Boost might not be an issue for me but I am going to check it and make certain I have no issues there.

 

I know who sells a FMS but I refuse to invest any more dollars in the products...no answer...no money from me.

 

This is what Brian at Dynomite Diesel wrote me in an email: We’ve received your injectors and have made some adjustments so they’re less smoky.  Didn’t find any major issues with them so if this doesn’t take care of the smoke issue then there are definitely other issues I’d be concerned about.  I went back and copied this, I couldn't remember how it was put so if I mislead any one I am sorry. I understand how the injector works but as far as making adjustments my method would be a 4 lb hammer beating the nozzle end flat and re-drilling the holes. I didn't get a job offer from anyone at Dynomite. So which is it? Darned if I know!

 

When this pump fails I will pull a junk yard pump to send back, I will pull every piece out to look at, throw them all in a box and send it to you. I hope you find out soon what makes the VP44-007 so secretive to service. Hope you get it!

[Greenlee]

Wow. Great information mike. Seriously.

As for the water hammer I used a needle valve from mcmaster carr that is adjustable for my fuel px gauge. I could never get the stock isspro damper to work. It also doubles as a shutoff for the gauge, which is nice when I pulled my pillar mount due to mice eating the gauge line.

McMaster-Carr is a great source for anything you could want, I ordered items for over 11 years online. Sill have an old catalog. Great idea on the Water Hammer effect, how far away is it mounted from the VP44? I agree, Great Information for any one who wants to learn more about the VP44

[GSP7]

Post.... im active

[diesel4life]

The thing that keeps hanging me up is how clean the truck ran PRIOR to installing your injectors. I have no experience with DDP and I'm not saying they're a bad injector but not all injectors are created equal. One manufacturers 75HP injectors may smoke like a freight train while another's 90HP injectors will run clean. An EGT gauge would help with the diagnosing. I definitely wouldnt be towing heavy without one. Maybe you could post up a short video of your engine under load so we can all get a better idea of just how smokey things are.

[Greenlee]

The thing that keeps hanging me up is how clean the truck ran PRIOR to installing your injectors. I have no experience with DDP and I'm not saying they're a bad injector but not all injectors are created equal. One manufacturers 75HP injectors may smoke like a freight train while another's 90HP injectors will run clean. An EGT gauge would help with the diagnosing. I definitely wouldnt be towing heavy without one. Maybe you could post up a short video of your engine under load so we can all get a better idea of just how smokey things are.

I don't know what I did but everything I wrote to answer you went away at Warp Drive so I will start over.

 

When I bought the VP44 Special X pump the description of the pump said a couple of things, if you are a tree huger then this pump is not for you because there is a small amount of black smoke that comes out the tail pipe when you push hard enough. It's not enough to cause alarm but it is noticeable. The explanation for this is the timing has built in advance so when I cranks up it is at an advanced setting and all it can do is continue to advance. I can see this puff of black smoke especially in 2nd gear and more in 3rd gear and then it fades away by the time I shift into 4th and 5th. It did the same when the smoke was rolling out or control only it started in 1st gear, more in 2nd gear, a entirely new level of smoke in 3rd gear and then it started clearing up in 4th and 5th gears. The first time around it blackened a two lane highway and rose over the top of a semi-truck. Difficult to drive even with just your toe on the pedal.

 

Dynomite Diesel was great to deal with. I am confident in the work they did and I don't believe it was the injectors to begin with. I quoted Brian from an email he sent me:  We’ve received your injectors and have made some adjustments so they’re less smoky.  Didn’t find any major issues with them so if this doesn’t take care of the smoke issue then there are definitely other issues I’d be concerned about.  I called him to explain the other issues and his reply is to start with the injector pump and that's what brought this post to life.

 

I called Chip Fisher for advice but that was a dead end. When I shared with him what injectors I bought and who made them he said "there you go" you get what you pay for. So he blamed Dynomite from the get go and had no fault with his special X pump. I said to Chip what should I have used in place of the 75 hp injectors and he told me RV 45 hp injectors and it didn't matter who made them, go figure that one out. In his description using the Special X pump he mentions some customers using 100 horse or higher injectors but it wouldn't hurt anything except the idle and it would roll like it had a big cam in it. Go ahead and figure that one out too! Long story short everybody is at fault because his pumps are perfect and never go bad. No I'm being sarcastic but I don't have the funds to play with like he has. It wouldn't be so bad if he would give some answers on how the pump advancement might be causing this.

 

What's the difference in stock injectors and 75 hp injectors?

 

I'm not going to tow until I get gauges installed, ISSPro EV2 look like it will run between $550 and $600 including a pillar mount with speaker. I have put 10,000 miles on this truck since I bought it 2 years ago so it's all still new to me. I will do my best to get a video of the smoke, Mike or someone will have to post it for me but I am hoping it will be much better this time around. How is watching the EGTs going to help me? I lost you on that.

 

I still want a intake manifold air horn and exhaust but the way things are adding up it won't be anytime soon. My truck is in great shape, no body damage, original White paint with a light Grey painted on the rocker panels. No rust anywhere and clean on the under carriage. I don't know how Dodge's should pull in 3rd gear but mine is a beast and really takes off in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears. Some of this is the VP44 setup.

 

The test will be when it's all changed out and ready for a test drive.

[Mopar1973Man]

I still want a intake manifold air horn and exhaust but the way things are adding up it won't be anytime soon.

 

Intake manifold and exhaust will not change anything. People producing 500+ HP see a difference with those items.

 

I don't know how Dodge's should pull in 3rd gear but mine is a beast and really takes off in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears. Some of this is the VP44 setup.

 

That's because of torque management. Once you break over 25 MPH the torque management is lifted and the power comes on full.

 

 

I'm not going to tow until I get gauges installed, ISSPro EV2 look like it will run between $550 and $600 including a pillar mount with speaker.

 

Hit one of the vendors and tell them you coming from Mopar1973Man.Com and I'm pretty sure they will give a small discount.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/

 

Mike or someone will have to post it for me but I am hoping it will be much better this time around. How is watching the EGTs going to help me? I lost you on that.

 

EGT are directly relational to fuel consumed and load placed on the truck. If the proper gear and road speeds are used then the EGT's should be low and MPG should be high.

[Greenlee]

Intake manifold and exhaust will not change anything. People producing 500+ HP see a difference with those items.

 

 

That's because of torque management. Once you break over 25 MPH the torque management is lifted and the power comes on full.

 

 

Hit one of the vendors and tell them you coming from Mopar1973Man.Com and I'm pretty sure they will give a small discount.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/

 

 

EGT are directly relational to fuel consumed and load placed on the truck. If the proper gear and road speeds are used then the EGT's should be low and MPG should be high.

I guess I will pass on the manifold air horn and exhaust, I'm not close enough to 500 hp yet. By the way I didn't realize how much horsepower was needed to see items work for you. I don't need to waste any money on items that look but do nothing. Something else to learn about is torque management and I'm guessing it is computer controlled. I will shop with our vendors first. Are the ISSPro EV2 the only brand you recommend? Learned another valuable insight about EGTs, again thank you.

[Mopar1973Man]

Just my preference. There is Autometer, ISSPro, Westach, Glow Shift, etc. The reason I went for the EV2's was two fold. I wanted to figure out why all these people are having issues with electric gauges and figure out a solution. Second part was I learned that EV2's are programmable so you can set your alarm limits in the gauge to lit a red warning light or hook up a relay to trigger a device like maybe a fan or similar. That is the only reason I jumped for the EV2's. But as for pricing I would consider EV's (mechanical gauges).

 

I originally came from DiPricol's which went out of business years ago. Another quality gauge but no where to be found now.

 

Glowshift is consider a very low budget gauge. Still functional but there has been issues with use of the gauge. Once again the problems are based around the electric senders which I'm studying currently.

 

Westach is a very good quality mechanical gauge but not very stylish. Lot of people like them because they are nearly bulletproof.

 

Autometer is another well known gauge. But can be a bit pricey for the different styles.