2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm about to order an Isspro EV fuel gauge for my truck from Vulcan. Their 'kit' comes with: "isolator, 30" universal gauge hose with adapters, tubing kit w/ fittings". For the fuel pressure access, I'm assuming I need the tapped 12mm bajo with seals, as opposed to the other push lock fuel tee's offered.I've read alot on here, and other forums, of guys using needle valves in the system as well (or in place) of the isolator, also a tee fitting in there to still preform direct fuel pressure tests. Believe Mike uses air brake line, I would guess that would be in place of the "universal gauge hose"? Just wondering if I would be better off putting my own 'kit' together, and…

Im fairly certain my VP44 took a big ol' dump on me the other day and now I have to spend a grand on another one. Im trying to troubleshoot so that I dont have to spend ANOTHER grand on a pump.It seems to me that the main issue with these pumps going bad is the fuel not being cooled enough and the pump and/or electronics overheat. So would it be a good idea to either:A. Coil the fuel line up after the filter housing (kind of looking like brake lines by a master cylinder) before it goes into the VP.orB. run the fuel lines through some sort of a small oil or tranny cooler mounted in the front somewhere after the filter housing but before the VP.Am I WAAAAY off base here? an…

I guess I never really thought about it, I believe I read it was an hy35 and then in 2003 when the switch up to the CR stock was the hx35...I know I've heard alot of good things about em and I was wonderin what would be a good/my best option for upgrading my turbo...Can the hx be a direct swap?

I have 2001 cummins 4x4 6 speed with 172K on it. I have had this truck for 7 years, upgrades are quadzilla adrenaline, k&n, straight pipe, air dog II. About a year ago I thought I had a water issue driving on a 1400 mile trip on interstate 40 my truck started jerking at around 55-60 mph like it had water in it. Everything would go dead and then pick back up, nothing of consistency, let off the throttle and then back on it would respond then start doing it again bucking and snatching. It got so bad I had to turn chip off. I put RPPF fuel treatment in it and it seemed to clear problem didnt have any trouble with the rest of trip but every now and then it seems to do…

Hey guys, I have been having some issues with my truck under acceleration for a while now and need some help diagnosing it. My sig is current, and I have just replaced batteries, cleaned connections and coated with oil today. Before the battery swap I was having VERY noticeable surging under acceleration when cold, and it even started doing it while the motor was operating temps. I also had my interior and exterior lights flickering slightly while driving and was getting a CCD reading from the overhead off and on while driving. I drove it several times today after the batteries and I have no more flickering lights or CCD light so far. The choppy acceleration has gone away…

When I park on level ground or nose uphill its been turning over about 2 seconds or so no matter how long it sets. If I park nose downhill it starts imediatly like it always has. What is the best way to find my culprit? I dont see any wet spots anywhere but my fuel line is about 5 years old and looksdry rotted in some places but its not wet either. The teflon tape on the bottom threads of my needle valve was a little discolored so I replaced it with new and it fired up imediatly but its nose down hill too. - - - Updated - - - It also runs just as smooth as always, no miss at idle or anything.

Hi all. This question is directly related to an ongoing thread at Cumminsforum, in which MoparMan is a contributor. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=9890709 I didn't want to high jack the thread, so here I am. Ultimately, it's about fuel efficiency & injectors, but bear with me! I've got a new to me '99Cummins 2500, 5spd, with 207K mls, fully stock. Had it checked out thoroughly before purchase, and everything is A OK. Recent clutch and tranny rebuild. My only concern now is the fuel system (which brings us back to the above mentioned thread). Getting ready for a 2 month Baja trip and want to make sure everything is good before I g…

My trailer brakes quit working so I bought a new Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Controller. The Controller has a wiring harness that plugs into the Controller, the other end of the wiring harness has no plug, just wires. The old Tekonsha Controller was connected to the wiring harness with wire connectors [no oem plug?] While disconnecting the old Controller I cut the hot wire and It sparked [i must have hit metal and grounded it out. This is the Problem: The hot wire is no longer hot. I have checked all fuses and none found are blown out. Is there another inline fuse that I have missed? It is very tight under the dash around the Headlight switch area and many wires. …

It's being a REAL bast*** !! got the starter off, the bolt holding the retaining clip out, and even popped the dipstick tube up. I Can turn it freely.... but the dang o-ring has got a death grip! Does that have a groove it indexes in? or am I facing a dozen years of heat making that oring a permanent part of the block? Last thing I want to do is break it off flush with the block! :banghead: going to spray some penetrating blaster.... maybe that'll help break loose the oring Am I missing something? - - - Updated - - - worked like a champ! hosed it down with pb blaster, and wiggled it around, then it came right out! …

the 12 valve and 24 valve cummins running the cummins supplied computer, along with the chrysler supplied pcm... make up our 'management operations'. Am I wrong to think the cummins' ecm does the actual engine management.... but is 'guided' by the pcm?so when a person mods with a performance module, they are actually 'fooling' the cummin's ecm with 'false' info from pcm?? ( so to induce higher boost, more timing, more fuel, etc..)The reason I ask, is the '94 ranch truck I am getting ready to build this winter still awaits my decision on which power plant: A simple 12 valve, totally mechanical on one end of my choices, to a …

Are todays thermocouples trust worthy enough to put them ahead of the turbo? I know you will get a much more accurate ex temp reading there.... but I'd sure hate to run a rotted off tip through the turbo! I have a couple of tractors that I'd like to equip them with..

I am running stock fuel line and filter with a Fass ddrp2. I have had no problem whatsoever. I have read about replacing the banjo bolt fittings with larger less fuel restrictive fittings. I'm thinking I could change the banjo bolt at the vp44 to the enlarged "DRILLED" banjo bolt and run 1/2" fuel hose to the OEM Filter.I guess my question is, "Is the OEM Filter housing drillable to handle a 1/2" hose fitting". I need some advice from members that have been there done that.Thank you, Kerley

Found this oil and oil analysis forum. Might be some good info there http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums

Now I know! This truck is co owned with my FiL, and about the only time I get my 'hands' on it is when something is needing repair! (not a real good arrangement eh?) For me anyway!But we've had this for about 7 years now, bought this '00 3500 just for one purpose: to pull either the stock trailer, or our flatbed.looking for possible causes for a couple of trouble codes... I see it still has the factory block mounted lift pump.I thought these were pretty much recalled early in their life to be retrofitted??? I'll bet a lot of you are thinking.... how can this guy not have heard where the pump was humming?..... well, I am 90% d…

On my 01 it jumps a little at idle, what's going on? I never payed to much atten. to it.

It's not the ScangaugeII.... Advance Auto was supposed to have one, so I got the Actron scanner. From what I can see, It doe basically the same as the ScangaugeII. After setup... (vehicle make model year engine) it will not only give a code, but what the code actually is. (I'll take codes and confirm either in here or elsewhere)So, here we go! 2000 Dodge 3500, cumminsP0336 crankshaft position sensor A circuitThat probably explains my bonker tachP1689 No communication with electric control and pump module.This probably explains the dying at idle, (sometimes) or an occasional buck..OR (possible light bulb just came on my ti…

In my manual they recommend anti freeze with Aluguard 340 -2,what's special about it? Is the pink antifreeze extended life good for the cummins?

Ok... Researched this, but to no avail. This site is not working for me, but I want to see it http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin...d/vac-diag.jpg So, in Texas, it rains and when it does it POURS!!! and when your 4x4 doesn't work it's not good in this odd soil. Started at the vaccum pump, has good suction there, tracked it too the T section on the fire wall (the grey/white line). This line has suction that is lookin like it goes to the T-Case... Then kinda disparages but I haven't put a lot of time into finding it from there. It's hard to get to the top of the T-Case... So then I went to the CAD (actuator) on the front passenger side of the axle. The CAD has no suc…

The research ive done seems to say that the rear seal on the nv5600 is leaking. Where is the best place to get a seal and is there any seals on the transfer case that i should do since it will be off? The trans was rebuilt less than 20k miles ago so seems weird that its leaking that soon. Here is a pic of where the leak is coming from and it is yellow in color and i dont mean the yellow paint lol. Cant see the oil in the picture. Want to make sure i get the right seals that will fix the problem. Thanks

I'm helping a buddy with his 1998 3500. Has the nv4500 on it. How and the heck do you bleed out the slave cylinder? I can't find any thing on it to bleed it with. [ATTACH]4518[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4519[/ATTACH]Thanks for the help!