2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Not sure yet there's so much oil and hard to track down exact source even after cleaning 3x. Im starting to lean to the the oil leak is comming out of one of the two rear breathers due to excessive crankpressure (higher HP truck with ppump) . However I'm not sure what to do about it. Already have the 2 breathers. http://blogs.dieselpowermag.com/6817455/whats-new/cummins-vs-crank-case-pressure/ I've heard that a vacuum leak or turbo seal leak can cause that. Doubt its turbo as its new ...... Any ideas of input into this one. How to test vacuum leak/drawdown ...... and what do do about reducing oil leak. There is 0 blowby from the front oil collector at front, 0 blowby …

Hey guys, Now I know iv'e been over this particular topic before but iv'e come to view some new info regarding lift pumps well new to me anyway lol. So I was vewing some threads on here and came across the Assassin lift pump, and read that these pumps actually increase pressure with RPM's which of course I really liked that, and the fact that there a mechanical pump. Also during my discovery i read that in order to install this pump you have to replace the draw straw. Is this something that absolutly has to be done with this style of pump? My original choice was a Raptor 100 but also viewing some threads on here I discovered that the new owners of AirDog F..... them up so…

I have an 01 cummins, the other day while driving 75 with the cruise on, my truck started to hesitate and jerk a bit. The truck then had a dead pedal and engine light came on and threw a bunch of codes. I had it towed back to a shop. The next day I went to see if I could figure any of it out. I changed the APP sensor and calibrated it to between .50v and .60v like the instructions told me. I still get dead pedal while driving and my coolant gauge goes all the way in the red when the dead pedal happens. I switched out the ECM with a spare one out of another truck in the shop and its doing the same exact thing like my old one. Im told I have an electrical problem but…

New to me 2000 dodge ram with ppump conversion. Let the games begin. :lol:Got home from holidays. Truck wouldn't turn. Noticed batteries seemed dead . 10.6 V. Charged them up .... primary is holding 12.6 and secondary 11.8 (might have to replace). However truck will not turn at all.Checked the starter was getting 12V at the main terminal (large wire).Switched relays for starter around ....... no difference.Don't think it can be the fuel shutoff solenoid - as it would still crank wouldnt it just not start.So thinking I bumped something on the starter or something around that ........ideas ??

Truck died while going down the turnpike, it looks like mice have chewed many of the underhood wires. Where can I find out how to get power to the VP44 pump? 1999 24v 2wd 5speed.... Thanks Gene

My torque converter is on it's way out and I'm swapping it this week for an upgraded billet low stall single disc, anyways, what else should I replace (budget friendly) while I have the tranny out? Seals? Washers?-solenoids are new -new filter and fluid obviously-shift kit -possibly billet servos-pan with a plugThanks

I finally (been busy lately) got around to completing the installation the other day of my Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump on my truck.I bypassed the stock lift pump all together. You can still hear the stock lift pump cycle when you first start/bump the key on the truck. I know sooner or later it is going to stop working and trip the check engine light. My question is..if I pulled the fuse for the lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? Or if I unplug the wiring harness to the stock lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? I want to disable the stock lift pump some way since I am no longer using it but I don't want the check engine lig…

what's the best way to drain the tranny oil,if I pull the pan I only get 3 to 4 litres.

Hey guys, just have a question regarding engine idleing and warm up. So I know according to the owners manuel your not supposed to idle your engine for a long period, and of course it doesn't specify what a long period of time is but aren't you supposed to warm it up in the winter? If this is the case iv'e noticed since owning this diesel that takes quite a while so wouldn't this hurt the engine since your not supposed to leave them idle for long periods of time? confussed. just another newbie question

I recently put 100 horse scheid lightning injectors in my truck with plans on upgrading the turbo sometime. I've narrowed it down to a couple and i'm looking for some advice on what you think from y'all. I do daily drive this truck along with the county fair sled pull and some trips down the drag strip. First one i'm looking at is http://fleeceperformance.com/turbochargers/cheetah-turbos/holset-cheetah-turbocharger.html i'm just afraid that its not gonna be enough flow on the exhaust side. The last one i'm looking at is built by a very reputable diesel shop in Indiana, the guy owns three 2nd gens, when I talked to him he recommended a 64/71/14 which is based off the s300 …

Shell has introduced a new diesel in my area, they call it FIT diesel. They claim to have corrosion inhibitors, anti gel and anti wear protection added. The station by me has had in the past 10% bio diesel. So i did not run any two stroke in that. I want to ask the company some questions as they also claim to have raised the cetane level in the new fuel. If you google shell fit diesel they have a FAQ section on their site but have very vague answers. I guess my question is, what do i specifically ask them for? Cetane score? HHFR score? What? Anyone that knows diesel may be able to decipher what it is saying but i can't. Do i run two stroke with this new diesel…

Ok, so my fuel pump started not to kick on when the key is turned on or when the engine is bumped. So I went to the troubleshooting guide on the Airdogs website. It said to put a jumper wire where the fuse goes to see if it will kick on. Well I jumped the fuse and all of a sudden the fuel pump started clicking on and off repeatedly. So I turned the key off. Replaced the fuse and it keeps doing it. Everytime I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicks on and off and there is a bunch of clicking noises in the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's like I'm turning the key on and off, on and off, on and offVery confused and don't know what to do. I tried scannin…

Ok, Finally making headway on the massive pile of parts needing to be installed on the truck....Tonight I finally installed the "Big Line Kit" from Vulcan, that goes from the stock fuel filter to the VP44, also utilized the T push on connector for fuel gauge as I have been gradually working on installing the gauges simultaneously... I think part of my problem is self inflicted, I spent so much time reading about different options I think at the end of the day I complicated the situation. I ordered my AD, drawstraw, big line kit and Isspro Gauages (fuel pressure, trans temp and EGT) as well as the air dog low fuel pressure light all at the same time... (seemed logical a…

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 5.9 Diesel. After I drive it 8-10 miles the check engine light comes on and the tachometer bounces up and down. Sometimes it goes down to zero and stays there. Other times it responds like it's supposed to. While it does this the engine "power surges", it cuts out and loses power but doesn't die. Other times it gains power......when you get down on it sometimes the tachometer responds like it's supposed to but the vehicle doesn't gain any power, not falling on it's face but not responding. It's not the throttle postion sensor because the tachometer responds. The codes I keep getting are: P1693 P1694 P0123 P1690 P0336 I have cle…

Just another failed 3-4 accumulator spring. Had a really hard 3-4 shift and here's why:

FeelerI know there are aftermarket coolers that bolt on in place of the NV5600 PTO cover. I'm thinking of fabricating an inexpensive/affordable alternative replacement cover, not for added cooling but more for you guys who are not as concerned about cooling but more interested in just simple mods such npt ports for temp sensor, fill and drain with a magnet. Seems silly to pull the shifter for overfilling & pulling the PTO cover to drain. Why not a just a few simple npt ports. A couple of questions:Anyone have a spare PTO cover or 2 laying around? Looking for a few covers for prototype template fabrication/testing.Most guys are overfilling the NV5600. How many quart…

My front drive shaft u-joints are toast. I really need to get them re-placed but I have never messed with the a double carden joint before. Any of you guys done this? if so what is the best method of attack?Thanks

Alright guys anybody know the exact years with the KDP? Mines an 01 sport model. And is there a way to tell if you've got the upgraded crankcase that prevents this problem with out taking it apart? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other day when I started my truck, I walked back into shop and suddenly, it went into high idle mode by itself, temp was about 30. This morning, I went out to start truck, walked into house and it goes into 3 cylinder mode. About 5 above. I disconnected my fooler weeks ago. Had to reroute wires when I put clutch master in. Never hooked the fooler back up. Do I have a ghost? Do they do this without the fooler from factory? Never did it last year..............

I have a Isspro mechanical fuel gauge in my truck. I never got around to hooking up the light for the gauge. I very rarely drive the truck at night. The question I have is..there are two prongs on the back of the gauge. Does it matter which one is the hot and which one is the ground? Neither of them are marked with a + or - sign. Also, I am wondering if you guys have had good luck using "add-a-fuse" connectors? FP gauge is the only after market electrical accessory I have on the truck. I was thinking of using the add a fuse connectors to get a power source out of the panel. Wondering if you guys have had good success using those?Or if I should use another way to…