2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,288 topics in this forum
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Howdy folks, Been working to much to be around here lately. Still working to much, but thats better than not working at all.<br><br>I am having a slow start problem. The starter is turning the motor to slow like my battries are weak. I cheked the batteries this morning before starting and they read 12.5v before starting and after sitting all night. When I hit the switch it turned slowly and the voltage dropped to near 10.5. Thge engine started after a couple of seconds. It seems to start alittle slower thru the day. Iam getting worried one time it is not going to start. <br><br>The alternator is putting out 14v while running. When I first get in an…
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Just wondering if there is any1 on here that has swapped in a 5 or 6 speed manual instead of a 47re? is it possible and wood it be worth it?
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Everyone says to add 1 oz per gallon of fuel. What is everyone using to measure or store their oil in their truck prior to filling up? I have used 2 stroke for the last 3 or 4 years in my old 12v and now in my 24v. I have always just carried the walmart gallon jug in my toolbox and I used the hose part off of one of these funnels: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/FTL0/10704/N0027.oap?ck=Search_funnel_N0027_-1_1567 . The hose and valve unscrews off the white funnel part and is the same threads as the gallon jug. I always kinda guess how much oil to pour in depending on how low on fuel I am but have never measure it out. Sometimes the hose funnel doesn't seal well o…
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My tranny was workin fine since I put in my new TC but this afternoon as i pulled out to go around a truck on the road doin bout 20 mile/hr it decided to stay in 3rd gear lockup and just about stalled the truck! From there it went downhill to the point now where i only got 1st gear and my edge pulls up no codes and niether does the key trick! i quick went to town and got a tranny output speed sensor but that didnt change anything. whats the next thing i should try?
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Hi GuysNew to the forum and relatively new to cummins and diesels all together. I have a 2002 3500 and have been having trouble witht the starter lately........I think.I searched the forum and think i may have found the problem but wanted to double check and make sure i am on the right track.Anyways, for the last month or month and a half i have been randomly getting a single click when i attempt to start my truck. At first it would only do it once or twice then start up. After a few times of this i popped the hood and noticed i had a loose batter connection with some corrosion so i cleaned it up and tightened it and it was better for a little while. it would be fine for …
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Last year I had the dead pedal syndrome on my 2001 Cummins 3 hours away from home pulling our camper. I limped the truck home with the camper after our summer vacation. Anytime I would start from a dead stop, extremely slow acceleration. It would run down the interstate fine once up to speed. FF, I changed out the lift pump which must have been failing because it wasnt pumping enough fuel. Also replaced the stock exhaust to a 4", added 4 guages & installed the BHAF system. New tires, new ball joints, new power steering pump and I thought I was all set for awhile. Last week while hauling the trailer, I had the dead pedal syndrome once again everytime the tranny …
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Well on the Suggestion of 98whitelighting, i lurked around searching on here for what my issues may be but to no avail i didn't find a solution to my problem. As of 2 days ago my truck was running just fine, then my CEL came on i went to parts store scanned and came back with P0237 MAP truck ran fine though so i cleared, came back about 6 hrs later cleared again probably coming on because of my XZt+ i had just uploaded a new tune to it. I don't know if this coincides with my issues from today, truck was driving fine this morning went to pick up a load for our job site and on the way back cruising about 35MPH truck just shut off, I checked fuel canister had bout half ca…
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Did a search and came up empty ....Is there a 'sticky' somewhere for torque values for 2nd Gen trucks?Wheel lugs, head bolt/studs, etc. etc.In my case, thermostat housing bolts .... what torque?Thanks, Greg
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I'm having a hard time finding a HX35 to replace my Hy35. So I have been surfing ebaymotors and there are several vendors selling them for around $300. Have any of you guys tried one? Are they junk? Also I was searching for a gauge pod set up and found some stuff made by Glowshift. They are about $200. I'm assuming they must be junk if they are that cheap. I'm wondering if any of you guys have any experience with them? Thanks in advance.
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I was wonderin if there was any1 out there who knew a trick for switchin off the automatic door locks. I get so of drivin across the yard n if u hit 10 mile an hour your doors are locked and I'm usually at the passenger door by the time i remember it:banghead:. Mayb its something the dealer has to delete, i just thot they did sumthin with the door lock switch.
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How much are these rotors, I am thinking sence I have 270k That I should just go ahead and get some rebuilt ones.
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Mike, I saw on Cummins Forum, your/the tire pressure formula. (Axle weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight ) x Tire Max Pressure = Infation Pressure. So my 'normal formula is: Dual Rating: ((4200 /2) / 3415 x 80 = 49.19 psi Single Rating: ((4200 /2) /3085 x 80 = 54.45 psi My question is do you add the load weight over the axle, ie. pin weight, or w/e weight is on the axle? If not, why? The tires still bare that added weight to the truck. So would the the formula look like this with pin weight of 3000 lbs.? Single Rating: ((4200 + 3000 /2) / 3085 x 80 = 93.35 psi? Dual Rating: ((4200+3000/2) / 3415 x 80 = 84.33 …
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Just for sake of information in case anyone's wants to know.....In attempt to reduce the "hot spot" of stagnant coolant and see if I can mildly reduce towing temps, I removed the coolant port plug between the #5 and #6 cylinder, installed a barb and ran a line over to the heater core return line. I haven't had a lot of test time since I just finished it.....and given who overly anal I am, I'm not finished with it either. I set it up by trying to have the new 5/6 line run lower than the original heater inlet line. Cold the two lines are about 1/4" apart but after the engine warms, they just touch. I'm not happy with that. :thumbsdown:On a side note, doing stuff like th…
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I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?
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I noticed my EGT gauge was pretty whacky today. It was bouncing up and down, and when I floored it it actually decreased in temp. As soon as I started to back off it would increase. Just kinda all over the scale. I am thinking the thermo couple is going bad. Anyone had this happen before?
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Hello all. I have just had an oil analysis done. I was hoping one of you-all could have a look and explain it to me. What all the numbers mean? What are the high and low limits of them?[ATTACH]4195[/ATTACH]Thanks again. The mileage is in KM eh!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Some info I've saved over time from TDR Timing the VP44 Fuel Injection Pump
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I know alot of folks have temp fluctuation but I think it usually swings low instead of high. I had this trouble a few months ago and fixed it with a new water pump but its back again. I just had the radiator cleaned and rodded but it hardly had anything in it. Its got another new water pump and I have ran two different radiator caps. I have 3 different t-stats and they all fluctuate the same, two are 190 from napa and one is a cummins 180. I generally see swings from 190-203 or so, usually cruising it stays around 190-194 but will jump up to 197-199 for a second then back down. That doesent bother me as im reading those temps from the ultra-gauge and I think those are fi…
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Alright, working on the whole "heater core" project and I had to remove some other misc. parts I deemed for removal to get to the relevant parts. One of them being the turbo downpipe to the intercooler. Upon inspection, I found very dark oil residue. It has a sheen to it. Its not heavy, but it covers the inside so much that its black.I'm not sure if this means my turbo is shot, or if the K&N filter that used to be in it was the culprit. I can only think of cleaning the downpipe and driving it for a while and then take a look at it again to see if there is a presence of oil or not to figure out whether or not my turbo needs rebuilt.If I do need to rebuild it, where can…
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So, we all know about the he351, s300, etc., for 'replacement/upgrade'.. But I have a friend here locally, that asked me if I'd like to buy his turbo. He was working on a project drift-car, but has not been able to move forward, and now needs a little cash for something.. He's got an Innovative Turbo Systems (ITS) GT72R-DBB (dual BB) Compressor Wheel: Aerospace aluminum material 72mm inducer Turbine Wheel: 713C inconel material 82mm exducer A/R Options: 1.10 T4 divided 4" V band, non-gated Whatcha think (JohnFAK, AH64, etc) and anyone else that would like to chime in…
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