2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

My truck is stock and only 119,000 km but it failed the emissions test today.This is an opacity test.Reading was 30.8% (just over the required 30.0%Oil was changed and filters changed (intake, oil and fuel) recently.Because it gets mostly city driving they suggested I take it out for a beating and come back so I did.It failed again, this time in the low 40's??!!The only trouble I've had with the truck in the year I had it was shifting points so I played with the TPM to correct it when I got the truck.Does the TPM talk to the main computer to adjust fuel delivery?Could this be why I get the black followed by white smoke at kick down? THAN…

Been struggling with the clutch on our 1998 ever since my son took it for a long trip last month.At first he lost the clutch completely, so we replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to correct part of the problem.It seems to grab solidly but the pedal comes so far off the floor (from what I remember it was like before), that it just doesn't feel right. I bled the system and believe the master is okay.Anyway to check this to see if the clutch friction plate is worn? I read if you put it in 4th or 5th and accelarate at low speed you can watch for slippage, I've tried this and it doesn't seem to slip, just slowly builds speed.Any other suggestions or maybe I'm just…

This isn't an oil comparison debate.. I'll get that squared away right now . I want to explore the different aspects of engine oil and how they effect the engine. I don't understand a lot of things about this, hardly grasp the weight thing. They say heavier weight oil protects the engine more, yet then they say thinner oil gets in places the heavier weight can't because of the smaller molecules. So I plan on ending all doubt in this thread. Here's some stuff from my diesel book. To start off, oil has 4 main functions in the engine: [*]Lubrication: To minimize friction and act as a medium to support the hydrodynamic suspension of the crankshaft a…

I think this has turned into a big debate in some places so I want to know what you guys think (without the debate lol). Power has a lot to do with this of course so lets keep this to saying we have sane power levels (<400HP) and how exhaust would effect the truck. First we have the stock exhaust. Is that 3" with the muffler and all that really too much of a restriction when at stock power levels? I don't think it is but would you gain efficiency by straight piping it, leaving the power at stock? Most people have around 350-400HP lately because of the cost to get much more out of them without having egt issues or something. What size exhaust do you need for that?…

One thing I have noticed a lot of difference in is valve lash. When you tighten the lash up (decrease the gap amount), you make the valve open sooner and close later. This allows for more air to get in and out. By tightening them up, the turbo lights sooner because more air is being shoved out at a lower RPM. This gives you a ton more efficiency down low from what I have noticed because boost helps burn fuel, when there isn't enough air, fuel is burned inefficiently. Inefficient burn can be compromised for less power by letting off and getting back into an efficient burn ratio, but this is inefficient in itself because you might be starting to go up a hill and you wi…

This is a friend's rig: http://www.youtube.com/user/Platinumflamepyro The rear end is making a noise and grabbing around corners. He'll chime in a little bit so I bet he can describe it a little better. Any ideas??:confused013: It's on a '98 2500 with an auto.:thumbsup:

My buddy just picked up a '95 3500SRW. It ran fine, but all of a sudden, it now will only run a few seconds (3-5) at a time. He replaced the FSS for some reason. I told him to check the filter, check for leaks (sucking air? ), lift pump, etc. He doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't know what the FP is doing.. Anyone heard of this, a remedy, etc? that I havent mentioned to check yet?Thanks!

A few more issues came up on my sons return trip from the east coast, looks like the clutch Master/Slave is on it's way out as he lost clutch disengagement several times and limped it back home.Any hoo the prebled Master/ Slave systems here are just out of this world (+$500) my parts jobber can get me the Master and Slave separate for $220.00, so I'm looking at going this route.Just unsure how to disconnect the hard line from the slave and master, and bleeding this system? Would like any one's experiences doing this.ThanksRick

Just started tinkering with my new soon to be Daily driver. its a 1997 2500 12valve 5 spd (215hp motor). ive driven it two or three times on my road (its not totally legal yet) and this thing is a dog. it seems as though it doesnt really get moving until around 2200 rpm. i know theres tons of mods you can do the IP on these things but is there a free mod that will bring on some power a little sooner?

My son just headed to the Canadian east coast driving 24 hours straight (about 1500 miles) with his cousin, and the truck started having this problem.He describes it as a hard spot on the throttle, that takes extra effort to push through. Once you get past the hard spot, the engine rev's jump, the throttle doesn't bring the revs up linearly, either idle or 1500 RPms or more.It makes it tough to get up through the gears when accelerating onto the highway, basically need to keep his foot in it and lurch through the gears. He is also afraid he will damage something pushing through the hard spot. Once at highway speed it isn't a problem as the revs are at 2500 and he sets…

Saw him tonight at horse camp. He has 180k on it. Runs "ok" but has lost several mpgs.

If anyone needs a free Dana Spicer 70 Repair Manual, here is the link: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf I found this while researching changing my front Dana 60 & Rear Spicer 70 ring & pinion gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.54 (or anything close to this). If anyone can give me advice on how to do this (ie: if it can be done, what I need to buy to get this done (special carriers?, best gear sources, special tools, etc.) I would really appreciate it. Thanks for any help.

Took a used banks brake on trade for my clutch, I think it was, after the 13 speed swap. Finally getting it installed. Made up my new down pipe and exhaust, got that all welded up last night. Brake is mounted and downpipe is mounted. Just need to hang the exhaust. Vacuum controls are hooked up, I still need to do the wiring. The setup I got didn't have the accelerator pedal switch, I'll need to make something up for that. They don't sell the kit for the 12v trucks anymore but they do have the install manual posted, so I've got the right wires to tap for cruise and so forth. Sadly there's no wiring diagram provided, just a "cut this, tap here" so everyth…

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I'll start this out by saying that the other week I installed gauges (Boost and EGT). I was told that for my truck with whats done to it I should be able to make 35psi boost easy but the most I've seen is 28psi and that was accelerating up a hill giving it all its got in 4th gear. So I decided to check for boost leaks. Tonight I did a pressure check at 6psi and all the intercooler boots and everything seemed fine. Then I noticed the oil dipstick was hissing a little so I take it out and the air is somehow leaking in and coming out there. Would this happen because I did the pressure check wrong? Are you supposed to block off the one end of the intake when you check it? Is …

While checking things under the hood with the truck running, I reved the engine and noticed an exhaust leak. The leak was where the exhaust manifold bolts up to the turbo. I tried to tighten the bolts but they didn't want to budge. Should I just leave it or do you think I need a new gasket there?

I saw this on another forum (http://www.dieseltechtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?70-Stock-turbo-Mod) and figured I would give it a shot since I am sooo close to having EGT's completely controlled. I think this will set me over the edge and I will be able to do whatever I want with the truck. The thread states that a stock HX35 has only the back 3 cylinders wastegated because of the divider between them. They carry on to say that this design raises EGT's under full boost (wastegate open) conditions. By drilling the wastegate port through to the other side of the exhaust (through the divider), all 6 cylinders are wastegated and provide more flow through the turbo, l…

I have a very annoying vibration sound coming from the 4wd floor shifter. The noise wasn't there when I first got the truck, but I haven't done anything to cause this. The shifter feels like it's all the way forward and left in 2wd and is vibrating against the plate it goes between. When I hold it slight right the vibration noise goes away. Any ideas on how to correct this or maybe adjust the way the shifter sits? --- Update to the previous post... Hmmm, found this: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/21-12-97.htm --- Update to the previous post... The TSB fixed the issue. Bent the tab out about a 1/4''.

1996 Dodge Ram 2500 with 297,000 miles. The fuel shutoff is not getting power on startup. If I turn the key on and manually pick the plunger up it locks in place. How does the shut off get powered? I changed the 20 amp fuse in the power distubution box but it only helps for several starts. Thank You

While on the interstate I was passing a vehicle and had some engine shudder which doesnt seem to be good. I was traveling about 70mph and gunned it, by the time I passed the vehicle I was going approx 85mph, as I let off the accelerator the engine began to shudder (almost like a hopping). I eased into slowing down and the shudder went away. I have experienced this before but now that it has happened again I need to figure out what the deal is. Any ideas what the problem could be?