2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

Here is how to find absolute TDC that you must know in order to set your timing or stuff like that that needs to be tedious. You will need the cummins barring tool. It is not absolutely necessary but it does make it a lot easier as you will need to be barring then engine over very slowly. You will also need a dial indicator, doesn't have to be insanely fancy. Now the actual steps. [*]Bar the engine over until you are at TDC compression/power #1. To do this, you watch the valves on #6 and stop when they overlap. If you are going clockwise the exhaust will shut and the intake will open, when that intake moves that is when you stop. If you are barring…

This should work from 1994-1997, not sure about 1998, probably close enough for that one. Basically I needed to trace out every single PCM wire and after 2 hours I got it all written down. If there is a "/", that means it splices into something else as well, hopefully the things that say a/c doesn't throw anyone off . The PCM has 3 big connectors, I am calling them A, B, and C, just like the schematic does. I haven't went out and looked to see which is which but they are color coded (White/Grey/Black). On a more subtle note, if you want to know how your truck is really wired, trace each one yourself I might make a few more of these. It's kinda nice knowing how …

I put a dial indicator on top of my valves, did some fancy work to find exact TDC (have movie, need to edit), and found when the valves opened/peaked/closed and marked them all on the damper. I did some fancy calculations and came up with my numbers on what happens as the engine turns.I will start at the power stroke, the diesel blows up and the piston goes down, 60* before the piston hits the bottom of the power stroke, the exhaust is already opening. The piston then goes up on the actual exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve peaking at 113* before the piston reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke. At 12* BTDC Exhaust stroke, the intake valve starts opening. At 12* past T…

I have a 98 12V and am in need of a new lift pump screen. Where do I find one.

Swapping a Cummins from a 97 Dodge dually into my truck.Does this engine have a vacuum pump on it so my power brakes will work?It came equipped with the hydro-boost power steering/brake comglomeration.

I have a 2000 rogator high clearance sprayer and it has a 12 valve cummins with the inline pump. After last season it was in the yard idling and all of it sudden it started to flutuate. I changed the fuel filters and took it out the field and opened it up to fuel throttle 2350 rpms and then it started to flutuate all over the place.do you think its the transfer pump and if it is what will a fass system do for me in this application Thanks JD63

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved …

I decided to rewire the engine compartment a few weeks ago. I cut every wire in there and took every piece of black tape and ribbed sheathing off and have been left with nothing but wires. My plan is to put the PCM/Fuse Box/Grid Heater Relay on the hood, right on the back drivers side corner. I don't think there will be any issue with slamming the hood and everything getting shock absorption. I have some plans to absorb it a little anyways, though I don't think anything will happen. The initial plan was just to take the ribbed sheathing crap off in lieu of braided nylon sheathing, like what the cruise control has on it going to the throttle. I was going to put it on…

I just now read about adding 2 cycle oil to my fuel but would like to know more.Seems that most guys doing this own 24 v engines.Mine's 12 v 1996 .. totally stock.Is there anything I need to know before I add 2 cycle oil? I think it was moparman who gave the 128:1 recipe, so I would go with that ratio.Another question: would I gain any MPG by turning my fuel plate back?I know most people are after more power, but my biggest concern is mpg. I'm getting 18-19 just tooling around town.Thanks

I will have to make a movie of taking it apart as well. I don't hear much as far as tips/tricks for turbos so I am wondering if anyone has any input on it. Things I did wrong, could do different, etc.. It's 20 min long though (I didn't edit it) and I don't plan on watching it I started the upload this morning and just went to work, so now I will just post it up for anyone who wants to see. I would like to get better shots of some things as well. There is also one thing about that PITA snap ring for the compressor housing that I learned a trick to. I will just have to video tape that as well. So for now, here is what I got:

Before I mucked around under the hood, I used to get 33psi with my 12v reliably and repeatably. Never spiked, never buried the gauge as long as the boost line was hooked up to the wastegate control. I've now swapped in a P-pumped 24v and I'm overboosting at and near WOT when under load. I only have a 35psi gauge and it'll pin it - probably getting to 45+psi. Stock gasket and retorqued stock bolts to 130# with roughly 17˚ effective timing; I can't boost that far safely. I'd like to be back to 30ish psi peak boost. I'm still giving manifold pressure to the wastegate, and I actually just stepped up line size from 1/4" to 5/16" but it didn't make a difference. …

my current truck has been having some problems and ive been thinking about the truck ive been fixing up for my uncle as my new DD. its 1997 2500 5spd 2x4 std cab 166xxx bone stock jsut noticed to that its a 215hp motor......for now he told me because im his favorite nephew he would sell it to me for a price of 3300. not ot shabby im thinking for a p pumper. i could finally make my first gen ive been driving for 5 years my project, a dream come true. THE DOWN SIDE...the truck NEEDS TLC to say the least. here are the current problems im dealing with and have been doing some book work on before i attack (not to mention it hasnt been over 25 in the past few days in PA and th…

so i have posted on other forums that im working on a truck im considering buying. its my uncles at the moment. its got alot of little problems im sorting through (thats what happens when things sit for 3 years) DETAILS- 1997 dodge 2500 std cab 2wd 5spd. BONE SOCK 166xxx. 215hp motor SYMPTOMS. its been 20-30 oF in eastern pennsylvania lately. ive been tinkering withmy uncles truck fixing it up. i started it the other day after letting the wait to start light die and buzzer go off, i cranked the truck and it took 3 cranks (2.5 more then my 1st gen ) to start, fired and then just sputtered to shut down. tried her again cranked and then same thing, third time it fired idled …

A friend had the lugs come loose driving down the road on the right rear wheels. The lugs ate up the holes in the dual wheels AND in the wheel hub. I tried doing a search in a number of places to try and find a nice write-up on this job so my friend will be able to do it prepared BEFORE he starts it. I realize there are a number of special tools, a DD 1241 (2 1/2 inch) hub to axle nut socket that is needed. Has anyone done this job before or know where a good write-up on this can be found? Many thanks in advance.

My brother gets the diesel power mag here every month and I haven't read it in at least a year (seems like CF people write it), but today I opened it up and found something worthy. They took a stock 95' 12V and dynoed it every time they touched something and it is pretty amazing. It was an auto trans truck. It had 277,000 miles on it. Stock it is rated at 160HP/400TQ. Here is how their dynos turned out with nothing but free mods.

After finding absolutely nothing on the internet for what is under that cover and lots of people wondering including myself, I put Smokeythedodge to the task of getting some pics since he has that 24V just sitting out there. He came through in a big way taking a lot of pics. You can see the pushrods going down right into the top of the lifter/tappet. You can see that some lifters are up and some are down because some are on the cam lobe. Also gives you a sense of why you have to jam dowel rods into the lifters and pull them all up if you want to pull the cam out, otherwise the lifters that are down would hit each lobe of the cam. Thanks again Smokey!

Well I finally got my truck back together, an 02 model dually, i ended up just putting a 1997 12 valve motor in it and another used nv5600 tranny. i got really close to going with the c series 8.3 liter cummins, lifted the body up with spacers and mocked it in but decided it was just too big to be drivin around with. i recently bought an 05 model one ton 4x4 with a blown up motor, and I am going to put a 12 valve motor in it or figure out how to p-pump a common rail motor, that would be unique. anybody know or hear of anybody that has put a 12 valve in an 03+ truck? or if you have any knowledge of how the gauges work in an 03+ that would be helpful. I dont see a pcm anywh…

what gsk works better with stock valve springs and stock inj. the 3 or 4.... weres the best and cheapest place to buy them?????

hey im new to the cummins pickup world and im just wanting some advise on what ive done wrong on adjusting my starwheel and fuel screw i turned the fs in almost all the way and the starwheel up about ten to fifteen clicks and now fuel mileage is about half of what it was before like 8.5mpg not loaded

Found something the mill was good for Yes I know it knocks Those things are mirror perfect now. You can see how they were when I pulled them, and a comparison of a polished to before, and just a polished one.