The Problem:

My head gasket seems to have sprung an external leak right under my thermostat.  I've got a big trip coming up next month with a pregnant wife, a 4 year old, and a 7k trailer on mountain roads, so I've got to get this squared up, and done correctly (though not overkill).  I'm very capable with a wrench, and have been through every facet of gassers over the last 20 years, so I'm not worried too much about tackling it (other than the 200lb weight of the head).

 

As I move forward I have a couple of planning questions to ask.

 

What tools will I need other than the basics (I've got a decently stocked roll away with the basics)? 

I don't mind spending up to 50 dollars for a job, or engine, specific tool that I'll someday need again that will make the job appreciably easier, but I don't mind making do to save some cash either.  I have a barring tool, but that's the limit of my Cummins specific stuff.  Should I get an injector puller?  Anything else?

 

What gaskets will I need?

I'm planning on buying Genuine Cummins (have a local dealer).  I figure I'll need a full top end set (PN 4090035), are there any additional gaskets or parts that I'll need other than head fasteners (see next question)?  Injector seals?  Anything?

 

Bolts or Studs?

I know studs aren't truly needed unless I'm pushing higher boost numbers than I'm likely to ever hit, but I don't mind springing for it if there is an appreciable level of genuine peace of mind to be had from it.  I hear that bolts can be reused, and often are, but there seems to be a lot of voices saying not to, which is pushing me to at least replace the bolts (approx $120 for a set).  I would really be bummed to shell out for that, when a new set of studs is not a whole lot more ($405 for ARP 425 series).

 

Tips?

I've got an alldata subscription which will give me most of the steps that I need, but I welcome any tips, shortcuts or encouragement you can offer. 

 

Other things of note:

- Currently my oil is not milky, and I can't see any evidence of oil in my coolant, so I think my leak is external only.

 

- I won't start this job until the end of next week.

 

- Once off, I AM planning to get the head surfaced, and checked for cracks... Is there anything else I should have them do?

 

- To do this job carefully, and on the slow side, what should I ballpark for time spent on actual work (not waiting for machining, etc)?

 

- My truck is my daily driver.  I don't ever plan on making it a beast.  At this point I'm happy with it's current power output, and really only could imagine going up to 400 hp on the outside. 

 

- I'm the sort of person who wants to do things the right way, the first time.  I don't go overkill nuts, but I also don't need to skimp to save $20 that I may regret later. 

 

All help is appreciated

Edited June 11, 20159 yr by Nates1999

I mean if you For sure have a front seal leaking, it would definitely be a good time to do it and the VP Pump as well as you can see in the write up the front cover is removed and thats the real PITA of installing VP injection pump is MAKING SURE YOU DONT DROP KEY into timing gear cover and insuring that you have KEY inserted in keyway properly, " doing all this while looking at it thru a Make up Mirror upside down

When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated? Never ever trust a torque wrench unless it is calibrated at least once a year at minimum even a brand new one should be sent in to be checked and tuned before use, especially the cheap ones. I have seen many stripped out head bolt holes in blocks and twisted off fasteners due to torque wrench calibration being off or the wrench just plain being bad period.

People miss this stuff a lot, we send in every torque wrench in the shop every year and pretty much every shop I have worked at have done the same thing, components are too expensive to take chances on due to mismanaged tooling.

W/F ..Thats a good point.  where can you get this done or can you do it yourself???  I have several Torque wrenches and of course there not expensive ones like "MAC, PROTO, SNAP ON, ETC...

I bit the bullet and ordered an injector puller and crossover tube puller. They should be here today.

Scratch that.... UPS lost the package.  Guess I get to do it old school.

use the valve cover bolts to pull injectors.

 

a small flathead crewdriver pulls the crossover tubes out easily with no damage.

 

ive dont it many times.

Is 3 gallons enough coolant to drop to take off the head?  I don't want to waste any, as my coolant is only 5 months old, and was expensive.  I drained 3 gallons into a covered bucket to reuse.

 

Stupid #3 injector nut wont come off at the head...  Not going to mess with the open end wrench I have.  Off to get a line wrench.

Edited June 20, 20159 yr by Nates1999

i don't think so, id drop at least 5 gal. 

 

IVE never not been able to get the injector lines off with a 19mm wrench. maybe rounded off at the corners of the nut

i don't think so, id drop at least 5 gal. 

 

IVE never not been able to get the injector lines off with a 19mm wrench. maybe rounded off at the corners of the nut

 

No... It's on there tight.  No rounded corners.  I just want to keep it that way.  Cranked pretty hard with open ended wrench, will pick up a flare nut wrench tomorrow. 

The entire cooling system is right about 5 gallons. I would thing 3-4 should be plenty to pull the head. Make sure you pull a heater core line to ensure the fluid drains from the head.

Should be a total of 6.1 gallons.

Little trivia... The 5.9's have bigger cooling systems than the 6.7's, even the newest 385/865 motor. The 3rd gen 5.9's have a 7.4 gallon system.

The entire cooling system is right about 5 gallons. I would thing 3-4 should be plenty to pull the head. Make sure you pull a heater core line to ensure the fluid drains from the head.

You might be right for 5spd, But if His Auto is like mine an has the big factory trans Aux.cooler on bottom pass. side of engine block then no, it won't. This was a factory option for towing

IT takes 2-5gal buckets to drain/flush my sys complete.  1-bucket will be full pretty much to top and the other will be a little better than half

CHECK OUT THE PICTURE;...Look at the buckets in the left background, can't really see orange one that good but it is FULL-=and as you can see the blue one is about half full

 

http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/document031.jpg

Edited June 21, 20159 yr by rburks

The volume should be the same auto or manual.

The volume for the heat exchanger is minimal and both are listed with the same total capacity which is just under 6.1 gallons.

I always thought that style bucket held 4 gallons?? That does makes 6 so?

I don't know about the 2nd gen blocks but the 3rd gen blocks don't drain well and about 2.5-3 gallons stays in the block.

Well IDK, Not an expert on bucket volume,     but i Know that when I've Had Radiator drained and or removed hoses off and left to drain couple days that i will have to put 7-Gal of coolant back in to put it back full, sometimes over 7, but maybe some of that gets pass to the overflow jug on side IDK..

 

Trans listed at 10-12 qt. also but i put 9-in last nite after pan and valve body have been dropped for a day and a half ...thats with a triple disk T/C

Honestly that's the size of bucket I used, and I'm pretty sure they are only 3 gallons. 

Well I Guess you all are right about the buckets, That blue one(little taller} holds just little over 4gal and the orange about 3gal

Guess I'm not accounting for spilling more than i thought when i take hose lose from block..    but I'm still putting in 7gal thats going somewhere.

Alright...

 

Got the last fuel nut off, and had a couple of lines with some corrosion on them where they go into the tubes.  What should I do to clean this off?  Scotchbrite?  Nothing?  Is there anything I should do to clean them out?

 

 

Alright...

 

Got the last fuel nut off, and had a couple of lines with some corrosion on them where they go into the tubes.  What should I do to clean this off?  Scotchbrite?  Nothing?  Is there anything I should do to clean them out?

I would let them soak in something like Coleman fuel, sea foam "Deep Creep" overnite, then take a brass wire brush, this is a very precise machine finish on this end of the tube that mates to the injector lines, if it still doesn't look right replace as needed, "TRUST me, the cost for a few crossover tubes will not compare to the nitemare of trying to solve leaking lines when you put everything back together,  be sure to replace the o-rings at the very least and if you remove injectors replace the copper washers

Not sure what you mean about the crossover tube reference. Tubes were fine. These are the end of the lines. I think I might try a tiny brass wire wheel on my Dremel.

Not sure what you mean about the crossover tube reference. Tubes were fine. These are the end of the lines. I think I might try a tiny brass wire wheel on my Dremel.

Sorry, i see it now i mis-read the post..., your still dealing with a precise machined fit and suggest even as much caution in cleaning cause the lines, ''wouldn't use anything real abrasive .. they make a brass wire brush thats maybe a little bigger than toothbrush..you can find them at northern, harbor freight, i found them at an outlet store that sells cheep tools kinda like a flee market...the soft wire wheels for dermal should be fine just go slow and after you get the corrosion off check for pitting, this could also cause problems..

 

rburks

Like mine are the same way and clean them up with Scotchbrite pads being its only plastic your not going to cut into the metal. Just make sure to rinse off the debris before installing.