The Problem:

My head gasket seems to have sprung an external leak right under my thermostat.  I've got a big trip coming up next month with a pregnant wife, a 4 year old, and a 7k trailer on mountain roads, so I've got to get this squared up, and done correctly (though not overkill).  I'm very capable with a wrench, and have been through every facet of gassers over the last 20 years, so I'm not worried too much about tackling it (other than the 200lb weight of the head).

 

As I move forward I have a couple of planning questions to ask.

 

What tools will I need other than the basics (I've got a decently stocked roll away with the basics)? 

I don't mind spending up to 50 dollars for a job, or engine, specific tool that I'll someday need again that will make the job appreciably easier, but I don't mind making do to save some cash either.  I have a barring tool, but that's the limit of my Cummins specific stuff.  Should I get an injector puller?  Anything else?

 

What gaskets will I need?

I'm planning on buying Genuine Cummins (have a local dealer).  I figure I'll need a full top end set (PN 4090035), are there any additional gaskets or parts that I'll need other than head fasteners (see next question)?  Injector seals?  Anything?

 

Bolts or Studs?

I know studs aren't truly needed unless I'm pushing higher boost numbers than I'm likely to ever hit, but I don't mind springing for it if there is an appreciable level of genuine peace of mind to be had from it.  I hear that bolts can be reused, and often are, but there seems to be a lot of voices saying not to, which is pushing me to at least replace the bolts (approx $120 for a set).  I would really be bummed to shell out for that, when a new set of studs is not a whole lot more ($405 for ARP 425 series).

 

Tips?

I've got an alldata subscription which will give me most of the steps that I need, but I welcome any tips, shortcuts or encouragement you can offer. 

 

Other things of note:

- Currently my oil is not milky, and I can't see any evidence of oil in my coolant, so I think my leak is external only.

 

- I won't start this job until the end of next week.

 

- Once off, I AM planning to get the head surfaced, and checked for cracks... Is there anything else I should have them do?

 

- To do this job carefully, and on the slow side, what should I ballpark for time spent on actual work (not waiting for machining, etc)?

 

- My truck is my daily driver.  I don't ever plan on making it a beast.  At this point I'm happy with it's current power output, and really only could imagine going up to 400 hp on the outside. 

 

- I'm the sort of person who wants to do things the right way, the first time.  I don't go overkill nuts, but I also don't need to skimp to save $20 that I may regret later. 

 

All help is appreciated

Edited June 11, 20159 yr by Nates1999

Head is finally unbolted.  Just need to lift it out.  Hope to get the hoist tomorrow AM and get it to the machine shop. 

 

Just discovered that the rear lift bracket is missing though.  Do you think I can just use a bolt run through a chain, or should I run out to the Cummins Ram Junkyard (yes... we actually have one about 20 mins away, they only do 2nd gen Rams and 7.3 Powerstroke Fords) and get one for $10.  If I can just bolt it, does anyone know what size bolt it is?

 

Ran my Headbolts through the ultrasonic cleaner a couple of cycles with some degreaser, and they look pretty much new (no pitting or corrosion).  They all ring pretty good.  They all eyeball the same length. Starting to warm up to the notion of reusing them (as I've been hit with a number of other big expenses on the truck recently).  Only problem is that the Genuine Cummins top end kits no longer come with a stretch gauge for the bolts.  Anyone know if there is anything else I can check on them.  Might just take them in to the local Cummins folks and see what they think.

Edited June 22, 20159 yr by Nates1999

You can run a bolt through the chain for the rear bracket, it will be fine for just the head.

Edited June 22, 20159 yr by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

A bolt should be just fine for the head. I wouldn't do that with the motor though! I might contact you to see if you could get a few things from that junkyard... Not so easy to find parts anymore!

To update my progress

 

Got the head over to the machine shop without issue.  Got a call from them yesterday that the head is pretty seriously cracked in lots of places, and is unsalvageable.  Made up lots of new and terrible swear words to voice my feelings to the world.  Explored options, and managed to work out a deal on a brand new factory assembled head, for not a whole heck of a lot more than it would have been to do my head originally.  All in all a huge bummer, but not as bad as it could have been I guess.  Head will be in today, and hopefully I can start buttoning everything up.  Still waiting on my injection pump, which will be here friday, and a new IAT sensor, as I forgot to unbolt mine when I pulled the head and it broke the connector (new harness pigtail is coming Friday too). Really hoping for no more surprises.

Ouch.... How much was it if you don't mind me asking? I was quoted 1350 for what you got.

1350 is a good price.  All I will say on the general board is mine was a unique deal at a time of much needed providence, and one I'm VERY grateful for.

Well...  It lives.  New head went on ok.  Got everything hooked up.  Fired it up and all seems to be holding on ok.  I guess time will tell. 

 

Should I go easy for a while?  If so, for how long.  I kind of want to beat the snot out of it for a bit before we head out on our trip to make sure it's all shook out.  How long should I wait?

 

I'm paranoid about people saying they get diesel in their oil after mucking around with their injection systems.  This was my first time with mechanical injectors (yes I changed the o-rings and copper washers), what indicators should I look for?  Smell?  Rising oil level?  If it happens is it catastrophic?

Edited June 27, 20159 yr by Nates1999

No worrries, you will have a leak external before internal most times where the injector lines don't seal to the crossover tube adapter some times and it is apparent when it happens will be fuel all over the top of the intake side of the head and smell real good when hot too. Just watch oil level for a few days but if it starts and runs fine wouldn't worry about it. No need to go easy on it is was just a head job not an overhaul and nothing to break in unless you cut O-rings or fire rings in the head then retorques are needed but if just stock let er buck.

I'd go a little easy on it to let the head gasket settle into place. At least get a few heat cycles on it, then run it hard.

Still seems to be holding up ok.  One item of concern was that the upper radiator hose (which I changed during the job), was leaking a tiny bit at either end.  I used the factory spring clamps when I put the new hose on, so I'm hoping they were just tired and needing to be changed.  I put on new worm style clamps and it seems to be doing ok.  However....

 

I'm a bit of a worrier by nature automotively (despite a really good track record).  More so for this particular trip that is coming up (we leave in a week).  I'm really paranoid that there is a chance that I've got small a combustion leak into my cooling system.  No evidence other than the leaking clamps, and rock hard hoses, but I'm still concerned.  What could I do to set my mind at ease a bit.

 

Only smoke of any color I get is a tiny black puff on start up (same as always).

Temp gauge holds steady in the middle even when pushing it unloaded (haven't loaded up yet)

 

Anything else I should check?

 

As for injectors:

 

Oil level is holding solid. 

a tiny bit of diesel is appearing on my intake when I drive

I definitely hear a very slight, but new, noise when driving at low throttle that sounds like pinging, and the truck is ever-so-slightly less smooth at idle and very low throttle

power is still strong.

Open up the radiator cap. If you're getting compression into the cooling system you'll see it coming out the cap.

 

What do you mean a tiny bit of diesel on the intake?

 

That slight pinging could be the valves needing adjusted???

Checked the valves again and found 3 of them tightened up after driving around after the initial adjustment.  I readjusted and buttoned up.  No real change, but at least now they are good.  Took it to a local diesel shop today for inspection and peace of mind, and they gave it the all clear.

good to hear!

Did mine a few months ago. 237k, it popped between the #6 oil return and water passage.

You don't need the injector tool, just a bolt that fits. I watched Mike's video on YouTube and got it pretty quickly.

My machine shop charged me $150 to check straightness and vacuum. It was 0.003 out ( well within spec) and had no leaks. Valves and seals all looked great.

I bought a heated ultrasonic cleaner and used Purple Power at 140F to clean the injectors after disassembly. I didn't have the money to buy the adapter to build a pop tester, so I just put the injectors back together as they came apart.

My exhaust came off amazingly easily. Granted my truck has lived in central Florida its entire life, but I've never seen 14 year old exhaust bolts in such good shape. Pull the two down pipe bolts, unplumb the turbo oil feed and return, and lift the manifold and turbo off as a single piece. It took me about 5 hours to disassemble and another 4 to put it back together, with numerous breaks for beer.

Oh, the Cummins parts guy told me to drop test the bolts; hold it by the threads and drop head-first onto bare concrete. If the bolt rings it's good, and if it thuds, it's bad. I checked them all this way and then I found the length gauge in the upper gasket set box. All checked out, both times,

Well... We are now back from our 2000 mile camping trip.   All went safe and well.  Pulled some serious (by California standards) mountain grades towing the 7k trailer, and was never let down. 

 

HOWEVER...

 

There does seem to be some coolant over-pressurization happening, which I am guessing is the gasket.  My hoses are weeping coolant out the ends with fresh worm clamps and the cap is leaking a little bit of coolant.  By "a little" I mean an amount that has yet to make any difference in the catch can or the radiator, but it is definitely leaking out and leaving wet white trails all over.  My cap is only 4 months old.  The upper hose (where I'm noticing the leaks) is brand new, as are the worm clamps.

 

I suspect I used too much oil on the bolts when I put them in (dipped with 5w30 when I should have brushed), which might have made the gasket swell, as there was a little oil coming out the side of the block/head seam when I was getting ready to torque them down after dropping them in. 

 

Problem seemed to be a little worse at altitude and somewhat intermittent.

 

SO....

 

What do you think I should attempt next?  I don't think I've got it in me to redo the gasket right now.  It was WAY too much stress on the family last time around to have my daily driver down that long (even though I think I could get it done faster now).  I'm thinking either a retorque of the new head bolts that I put in, or possibly bumping up to studs (which I think I should have done in the first place).  If a retorque is in order what's the best process? 

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by Nates1999

What coolant temps are you running?

 

How about boost and EGT's?

Are the 24V gaskets not MLS?

 

Do you think it is combustion pressure pushing on the coolant?

Sounds like the cap to me. If there is anything over 12 or 14psi I can't remember which our cap is, it should pour into the overflow not out any of the boots. Where did you purchase your cap from?

As for clamps you need the constant tension spring clamps. It'll keep those hoses tight through the expansion and contraction.

You really need to test and see if you are getting pressure into the coolant system with a gauge. If the pressures are that high it could blow out freeze plugs and that's another story.

What coolant temps are you running?

 

How about boost and EGT's?

Coolant temps stayed pretty solid near the middle of my gauge.  Never pushed high.

Egts never got worrisome.  Stayed under 1100 the whole trip.

I never pushed boost over 25psi

Edited July 21, 20159 yr by Nates1999