Wipers quit on my 2001.  Could hear relay clicking when on intermittent, so figured motor.  Got a reman motor from autozone.  When I hook up 4 wire connector and turn on switch, it blows fuse.  Check ground and I am getting 12v on the ground when switch is on.  Check plug and I get 12v on the hi and lo when switched to hi and low.  I have 12V constant on one of the park wires (blue wire).  Figured motor was bad, swapped it and replacement does same thing.  I replaced multifunction switch, same problem.  thoughts??

Best break out the wiring diagram. Sounds like something is shorted out someplace. Might try swapping relays out just to eliminate it as an issue.

                               May be this will help.

 

I didnt realize the Central Timer Module was involved. Hopefully that isnt the problem. Is everything else in the cab working as it should? Just the wiper problem?

Everything is working fine. I would think to have voltage on the outside of the motor, it would have to come from the inside? The plug has four wires: 1 low speed, 1 hi speed and 2 park wires. The plug has voltage on the speed wires at the project switch setting. One park wire has voltage at all times and one park has none. It makes me think something is zapping the park switch circuitry in the motor? These are autozone cardone reman motors.

I would realty like to know when the park wires are supposed to have voltage.

Did you try powering the motor without it installed ? Might be a mech issue

with the motor not installed and not grounded, if I hook a jumper wire direct from the battery to either the hi or low terminal on the battery, I get 12v on the ground.  I get about 2-3 volts on the ground when the jumper is hooked to either of the two center park terminals.  I don't know if it was like this before I hooked it to the truck.  When I got the motor, I connected the electrical plug and turned on the wipers and checked the ground.  It had 12v on it so I unplugged it.  I don't know if there is an issue on the truck that fried something in the motor (almost instantly) or if these motors are just junk.

If you put a volt meter between the ground wire and ground you will see 12+ volts when powering up either the low speed circuit, br/wt wire, or the high speed circuit, rd/yl wire. Test the ohms resistance for both the low and high speed circuit. Should have some resistance, 50-100 Ω.  The central timer module is in nothing more than a grounding control unit.  Which fuse is over loaded.

When I set meter to 20K ohm, I get 0.02 on both hi and low circuit.

Use a lower scale for the Ω reading. try the lowest first and go up from there. Is it fuse #6 that gets over loaded?

Blowing # 6

Fuse #6 powers up The park switch in the motor, pin 87 and pin 86 for the wiper motor relay (DB) dark blue wire. Fuse #6 does not power the high or low circuit of the motor. The wiper motor: low, high, and park switch, is grounded through it's body. The park switch all so runs to the wiper relay and central timer module (DG) dark green wire.  Try running the wiper with 1. the relay out because that looks like it is only used for intermittent and park, and 2. with the DG wire disconnected from the motor. For testing a fused circuit You can get an auto reset circuit breaker, solder a wire to each terminal of the circuit breaker and the other end to a bad fuse. install the bad fuse with circuit  breaker and run your testing with out having to replace fuses. 

TRY YOUR WIPER SWITCH on the stalk , there bad to ground out and do this. try gnu wire from switch and see if it is hot

That's the first time I really looked at the wiring diagram... All I can say is Wow that's a confusing mess.

It used to be that wipers were "hot" all the time & they parked by interupting the ground.  I don't know if that is still the case.   

Ok,,, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say it could be he got a bad Wiper motor,,ILL Explain,,"Correct me if I'm wrong" but it appears that the the ground for the Motor grounds the Housing on entrance and then completes the park switch..if the park switch were to short circuit it would short the motor and he would show positive voltage on the housing and GND wire

 

I'm theory: its the MOTOR the Culprit

Edited July 18, 20159 yr by rburks

I'm on 3rd motor. I'm definitely not a mechanic, so having the ground wire light up a test light is blowing my mind!!

THIS IS A TUFF ONE...reading that diagram is about as confusing as a _Po-lock PERSON  in a round room trying to find a corner to PI$$ in 

 

IM SORRY,,,, POLITICALLY CORRECT NOW 

Edited July 18, 20159 yr by rburks

did you get your wiper motor issues resolved???

No. Headed to the beach for a while. I'll worry with it when I get back. I think I'll pull the cowl off of my '99 and probe around with the volt meter and see if I can find any differences. Maybe that will help.

Please consider my previous post.  It used to be...  maybe still is...  that wipers were hot (power to them) all the time.  The parking feature required the GROUND to be interupted when it reach the park position.  So YES, you will read POWER on the GROUND line when you have you meter or test light to ground.   The SWITCH is also on the ground side, so your tester is jumping the switch.   

This set up sometimes causes a corrosion problem (green verdigris) on the hot side.  If contaminates like salt air condenses on the hot side.   

Edited July 19, 20159 yr by flagmanruss