I've read Dynamic's posts about not using Alto Red frictions and steels, so what else do I need to know? I'll be doing it myself (with the assistance of a Chrysler master transmission tech) in a nice, clean, air-conditioned garage, and I'll be pressure-washing the underside of the truck and the transmission case once it's out.

 

Problems currently are no 1-2 shift unless I lift completely off the throttle, and a leaky rear seal. The kickdown lever is broken, which allows the 2nd gear band to float free above the drum.  2-3 and 3-4 are essentially normal shifts.

 

I've already got an FTI single-disc converter and a Suncoast billet governor solenoid plate and oversized/GM solenoid.

I don't realistically see the truck ever being modified to make more than 350-400hp.

 

So, what parts should I use? Does anyone make a decent, comprehensive kit that includes all the gaskets, seals, etc. in addition to the recommended Raybestos "hi-energy" clutches? What about oversized pistons/servos and accumulators? Any upgrades to 48RE hard parts that can be done while it's apart?

I have no desire or intention to open up the overdrive section of the trans.

 

So, suggestions/tips/recommendations?

Raybestos or Borg Warner blue or green clutches, I think I have blues in mine, when they rebuilt it last year. I've been to 3 different tranny shops and my local guy all said run blue or green frictions, good for at least 500 hp. Add an extra friction somewhere, not sure. May not need it with a single disc, but a billet/forged input shaft is always a safe bet. Upgraded lever and anchor, billet servo and piston (not oversized), the stock ones are plastic. Aftermarket pan with a drain plug. Upgraded valve body. After botching my shift kit, I would recommend just having someone do it or buy a unit from a dealer who tests the valve body before shipping it. Upgraded planetary, stock is 4 pinion, I forget if I have a 5 or 6. I'm not sure what parts are in my tranny, but I know Sonnax makes billet servos, etc. DTT has servo/piston packages. Heavy duty flexplate. "High energy" bands.  

http://www.goerend.com/index.cfm?Page_name=1996-2003%2047RE%20Master%20Overhaul%20Kit

 

Don't forget the book too, Exploded view diagrams, torque specs. Call goerend

I'll be going through my 47RE here shortly and was wondering who's got a good master rebuild kit? Talked to a local guy last week who used to be the transmission tech for the local Dodge dealer and he suggested Kevlar clutches and band... I'm not looking for 500 horsepower just want to build a nice towing rig, 350hp or so. 

You will want a billet flex plate, and billet input shaft. Because when these fail on a built auot usually they trash the pump.

 

I would suggest you also get billeted 2nd gear acculator, and the front servo accumlator that is also metal, alot of the subtle shuttle shfting is due to these parts leaking fluid past the rings.

 

I also recomment the planetary from the 48re as it is steel and better built.

 

 

I urge you to reconsider the overdrive unit, these are a known weak point, and once you remove the rest of the slack a worn O/D unit will show its true colors.

 

 

I would recommend buying a prebuilt valve body, unless you are good with the TFOD kit. I do recommend however that you get the Sonnax (i can't remember the name) valve that allows for circulaton in park.

 

 

When it is all said and done, you need to see somewhere around 75-80psi in the valve body at idle and around 150-180 driving. Anything more or less will be bad. You don't race so i agree with not using the red clutches.

Unfortunately there is no money in the budget for a $700 billet input shaft, unless you know of one in the $400 range.

 

My valve body was done by a longtime friend of my father who has built Mopar race trannies for almost 40 years. It's a Superior kit. I'm not planning to redo the valve body.

 

I have no idea what's involved in installing the 48re planetary set. Is it a simple drop-in, or is machining of the drum required?

Unfortunately there is no money in the budget for a $700 billet input shaft, unless you know of one in the $400 range.

 

My valve body was done by a longtime friend of my father who has built Mopar race trannies for almost 40 years. It's a Superior kit. I'm not planning to redo the valve body.

 

I have no idea what's involved in installing the 48re planetary set. Is it a simple drop-in, or is machining of the drum required?

What are your power goals?

RV275s, a Smarty and maybe an HY35...

RV275s, a Smarty and maybe an HY35...

As far as turbos go an HY35W is too small for all this without the possibility of lifting the head from high drive pressures. Also an HY35W does not have enough flow to keep up with the fuel demands of anything over the RV275's. 

 

Do you plan on working the truck? (towing heavy or light)

Daily driver, sees about 5-7k miles towing a year. Probably 1/2-3/4 of that is a 13k 5th wheel, rest is a 20' flatbed with car/truck/50hp loader on it. 

There is a member here goes by the name "Dynamic". He's a transmission rebuilder. He has a lot of good knowledge. While your at it con him into becoming a vendor here too.

HY35 is too small for any aftermarket injector. My truck didn't like 60hp in the mid and top end. Great for spool but too small for flow at cruising speeds and hard accelerations. 

I'd be careful about the input with the smarty. The smarty is known for a harsh torque curve off idle.

Cajflynn, our old million miler used to say that even billet inputs will fail eventually if you tow heavy and drove far enough.

Edited September 12, 20159 yr by CSM

01 and 02 had torque management i believe, does the smarty bypass that?

 

 What about replacing the old cooler lines? Is there a source for OEM, or an aftermarket option? I've read some about replacing with rubber lines, any experience with that around here?

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by 440Rat

I need to replace all my lines in the near future.  

 

When I do I am ditching the hard lines and using AN fitting's with 1/2" soft line for the entire thing.

01 and 02 had torque management i believe, does the smarty bypass that?

 

 What about replacing the old cooler lines? Is there a source for OEM, or an aftermarket option? I've read some about replacing with rubber lines, any experience with that around here?

 

Smarty does not completely only partially remove torque management. As for complete removal look up the RadBox.

Daily driver, sees about 5-7k miles towing a year. Probably 1/2-3/4 of that is a 13k 5th wheel, rest is a 20' flatbed with car/truck/50hp loader on it.

From what I am reading do a good solid rebuild order a Goerend valve body with GM solenoid upgrades.

I'd say a 1500 RPM stall converter triple disk converter to handle the extra power. Also you will need billet shafts if your planning on keeping this thing together while towing heavy.

Call Goerend Transmission they can line you out and I am willing to bet they tell you something very similar.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

I have upgraded cooler lines on AN fittings and 2 additional coolers. They help keep the temps down.

I have upgraded cooler lines on AN fittings and 2 additional coolers. They help keep the temps down.

 Did you replace your factor lines with rubber hose? Also what size fittings did you use out of the transmission?

Did you replace your factor lines with rubber hose? Also what size fittings did you use out of the transmission?

It's braided hose all the way. Don't honestly remember the size. They look like -8 in some places and others -6.

My temps are fine, even pulling uphill (what qualifies as uphill in Florida is drastically different from the rest of the country) it rarely goes past 185.

 

As far as calling Goerend, even if I had 5 large to spend, I wouldn't call them... I'd drive 6 hours to Suncoast and let them do it.

I'm also not replacing my perfectly functional FTI single-disc converter. It is utterly preposterous to suggest that someone needs $5,000 in transmission upgrades to run RV275s and a tuner.