I currently am working with a manufacturer to have an additional BHAF filter option. This filter uses Donaldson's Powercore technology and has a capable flow rate of 1300 CFM while filtering the air down to a micron rating substantially better than stock.
I am currently in process doing heat soak and IAT temp checks and EGT checks at WOT runs, cruising, part throttle acceleration and transient boost speed from cruising to passing acceleration.
Next tank of diesel will be a fuel economy test to see if any improvement exists.

I will do my best to keep everyone up to speed.

I do believe I mentioned it on the video but maybe I did not. 70 MPH is actually 65 MPH.

I have yet to head to the dealership to fix it but it's great for those who like driving 5 MPH over the posted limit all the time. Prevents speeding haha.

My speedo is right for the tires and I know when I am speeding, 78 in a 70 is about my norm. Thats why I was wondering. My hearing is bad and I could have missed that one easy. So I am turning about 2250 at 78 mph on my tires

A factory HX35W and HY35W both have the sane air flow I do believe was around 60 Lb/min. Which is still more air than the current BHAF filters are rated for.

I've been running many different drivability testing. Throttle response has increased compared to the factory air box as has the turbo sound in the cab. Most will not have an issue with the sound even without the silencer ring due to the Holset inducer blades being rather calm in pitch and the compressor inlet geometry helping with sound. If you do run a Borg Warner turbo in the S300 category they have an attenuator compressor housing to help reduce sound which also helps with airflow by a small percentage.

I always thought that the HY was better at low rpm that high rpm. Am I wrong?

My speedo is right for the tires and I know when I am speeding, 78 in a 70 is about my norm. Thats why I was wondering. My hearing is bad and I could have missed that one easy. So I am turning about 2250 at 78 mph on my tires

At 75 MPH my speedometer says 80 and I am usually turning about 1900 RPM the larger tires make a big difference in cruising RPM. Also what's not in my signature is the fact I have the 3rd gen brake upgrade on the front. I don't have a saved link otherwise I would paste it below for you guys to see. The only way to run those larger rotors and caliper brackets is using 17 inch wheels. If you ever go this route I'd recommend 3rd or 4th generation factory wheels in a 17 inch and to prevent speedometer inaccuracy use 265/70/17 which are the same diameter as the factory 265/75/16 tires.

I've got a wedding to be at in a month from now so I will get a long distance driving report much later down the road.

I always thought that the HY was better at low rpm that high rpm. Am I wrong?

The HY35W was intended for automatic transmission trucks because of the way the shift patterns are done. When a shift occurs the the RPM drops enough that an HX35W would see a loss in boost and lug the engine.

The negatives of this turbo are high tubine drive pressure. This was corrected on the 2004.5 and up common rail trucks by altering the turbine volute design and the wastegate position. This turbo also was how they kept particulate matter emmissions down on all the auto trucks. On the common rail trucks it also creates some in cylinder EGR.

An HX35W has a flaw and that is only one volute goes through the wastegate.

You can go into an aftermarket S300 60/65/12 divided and wastegated turbine housing and it will spool very well but not as fast as the HY35W.

Edited September 11, 20159 yr by Vais01

think i will stick with the OE HX on mine. Laggy off the line but spools pretty good if I want to run thru the gears quickly, as long as you keep the rpm's u p a little.

 

Got you on the tires. looked up the difference on the diameters.

Edited September 11, 20159 yr by dripley

think i will stick with the OE HX on mine. Laggy off the line but spools pretty good if I want to run thru the gears quickly, as long as you keep the rpm's u p a little.

The HX35W is a good turbo but if you go to injectors that are close to 100 horsepower over stock you will see the front bank of cylinders(1,2,3) will show high drive pressure and high EGT compared to the rear bank (4,5,6). RV275 injectors will be fine.

Very interested, I happen to be in need of a new filter with a 5" flange.

 

 

The HX35W is a good turbo but if you go to injectors that are close to 100 horsepower over stock you will see the front bank of cylinders(1,2,3) will show high drive pressure and high EGT compared to the rear bank (4,5,6). RV275 injectors will be fine.

 

 

Could one get around this issue by drilling the divider?

The HX35W is a good turbo but if you go to injectors that are close to 100 horsepower over stock you will see the front bank of cylinders(1,2,3) will show high drive pressure and high EGT compared to the rear bank (4,5,6). RV275 injectors will be fine.

The most i ill ever see is 50 to 75 hp injectors but that would be out of curiosity or just wanting new injectors. Need a new clutch first.

Very interested, I happen to be in need of a new filter with a 5" flange.

Could one get around this issue by drilling the divider?

Unfortunately no, drilling the divider will only cause turbulence. I know people who have done this and saw little to no results.

The filter has several options from 4 inch to 6 inch flanges. Tomorrow I will do some finalization on whether this would be a viable option for us. I don't see why it wouldn't be. According to the vendor this filter in average conditions can last up to 100,000 miles before needing replacement.

It can be back flushed if in high dust environments also. More info on this tomorrow.

The most i ill ever see is 50 to 75 hp injectors but that would be out of curiosity or just wanting new injectors. Need a new clutch first.

If you have an HX35W I would go to 75 horsepower injectors but you would need an upgraded clutch. I would use Valair clutches over South Bend also but that's just a preference.

If you can I would check the IATs while towing up some long grades. I notice a big shift in IAT when towing and the compressor discharge pipe is HOT, the thermostat is full open, and the exhaust manifold is hot. This is all with a sealed box on my 3rd gen.

If you can I would check the IATs while towing up some long grades. I notice a big shift in IAT when towing and the compressor discharge pipe is HOT, the thermostat is full open, and the exhaust manifold is hot. This is all with a sealed box on my 3rd gen.

I would do this but unfortunately I do not tow much. I have in the past with this truck but that is prior to owning the truck and at that point IAT was fairly low 120 was the highest I remember. This was a light trailer and it was very cold out. If I remember it was around 30 degrees in the Texas hill country where the IAT jumped up to 120. At that point the owner had an oiled air filter on the truck with an HE351VE turbo. A lot has changed since then.

Just a side note this is an actual air filter since you and I are sticklers for filtration.

Edited September 11, 20159 yr by Vais01

If you have an HX35W I would go to 75 horsepower injectors but you would need an upgraded clutch. I would use Valair clutches over South Bend also but that's just a preference.

 

I have a valair on now. Lost the throw out bearing at 70k and now the clutch at 110k. My stocker lasted 245k. 

I have a valair on now. Lost the throw out bearing at 70k and now the clutch at 110k. My stocker lasted 245k.

Could be a number of things causing the clutch to go earlier than the factory. If you used the single disc organic clutch Valair does not recommend towing over 10,000 with regularity. They say use the organic dual disc clutch.

Could be a number of things causing the clutch to go earlier than the factory. If you used the single disc organic clutch Valair does not recommend towing over 10,000 with regularity. They say use the organic dual disc clutch.

My trailer is 15k. i pull it 4 to 6 times a year for maybe 2k miles. This is the one I bought, just not from DAPhttp://dieselautopower.com/1999-2005-cummins-nv5600-13-x-1-375-single-disc-hd-replacement-brass-woven-organic/. The upper description says 400hp and 900lbs of torque. the lower says 350 hp and 800lbs of torque. I did not notice that until after I had purchased. But I figured if the stock clutch help the power while towing and lasted 245k(100k of that with the 15k trailer) that this clutch should have done better. Maybe an install problem, not sure. It does make me gun shy of the valair though. I am also a little gunshy of a dual disc. I dont need it for daily driving which is what I am doing over 90% of the time.

My trailer is 15k. i pull it 4 to 6 times a year for maybe 2k miles. This is the one I bought, just not from DAPhttp://dieselautopower.com/1999-2005-cummins-nv5600-13-x-1-375-single-disc-hd-replacement-brass-woven-organic/. The upper description says 400hp and 900lbs of torque. the lower says 350 hp and 800lbs of torque. I did not notice that until after I had purchased. But I figured if the stock clutch help the power while towing and lasted 245k(100k of that with the 15k trailer) that this clutch should have done better. Maybe an install problem, not sure. It does make me gun shy of the valair though. I am also a little gunshy of a dual disc. I dont need it for daily driving which is what I am doing over 90% of the time.

Definitely something that should be noted on there that is not.

Valair themselves will tell you that the organic single disc is not for heavy towing. If you go to the website they have info on it and clutch recommendations depending on use.

The clutch you have is recommended as a factory upgrade that's all that is shown.

Edited September 11, 20159 yr by Vais01

Definitely something that should be noted on there that is not.

Valair themselves will tell you that the organic single disc is not for heavy towing. If you go to the website they have info on it and clutch recommendations depending on use.

The clutch you have is recommended as a factory upgrade that's all that is shown

 My logic at the time was since the stocker held up under the extra power and the load that an upgraded clutch ought to work out just fine. My mistake as I only got maybe half the life out of it. Live and learn.

So gents I have come to a conclusion that this filter as a BHAF will work well in our application.

I would like some feedback from as many people as possible though. The vendor is willing to produce an air filter box for this filter or another that has about 150 CFM of additional flow if there is enough people that would like going the airbox route.

So if you would like an airbox with these high flow and high filtration filters in a reply write in AIR BOX, if not write in BHAF.

I will be emailing the link to this thread to the vendor of the product so spread the word. They are very excited to hear from us guys running trucks from 1994 - 2002.

Whenever you guys are ready go!

Edited September 11, 20159 yr by Vais01

My logic at the time was since the stocker held up under the extra power and the load that an upgraded clutch ought to work out just fine. My mistake as I only got maybe half the life out of it. Live and learn.

These things happen. They offer a dual disc that's rated from factory power to 500 hp also that is engineered for heavy towing. Might give them a ring and see if they can work with you.

I would like to see some numbers, and so forth. 

 

Pricing?

 

Who makes the filters? are they long standing like Wix or Donaldson?  

 

Detailed pictures, inside, out, etc.

 

Dimensions?