I currently am working with a manufacturer to have an additional BHAF filter option. This filter uses Donaldson's Powercore technology and has a capable flow rate of 1300 CFM while filtering the air down to a micron rating substantially better than stock.
I am currently in process doing heat soak and IAT temp checks and EGT checks at WOT runs, cruising, part throttle acceleration and transient boost speed from cruising to passing acceleration.
Next tank of diesel will be a fuel economy test to see if any improvement exists.

I will do my best to keep everyone up to speed.

I wouldn't mind having a nice air box to go with a filter like this, I have a amsoil air filter right now just out in the open, if I remember right the filter I have is about half the size of a regular BHAF but flows a little more and filters the same and cost right around $70 regular price iirc. I think a air box looks better under the hood than just having a filter laying there.

While the air box would be nice, the set u I have now has served me well and I would be hard pressed to spend $300 for something new that might gain me some thing. My vote would be for the filter alone.

I wouldn't mind having a nice air box to go with a filter like this, I have a amsoil air filter right now just out in the open, if I remember right the filter I have is about half the size of a regular BHAF but flows a little more and filters the same and cost right around $70 regular price iirc. I think a air box looks better under the hood than just having a filter laying there.

Blue in color probably an AFE filter built for them. If it looks like the BHAF I'm running it's a Donaldson filter.

While the air box would be nice, the set u I have now has served me well and I would be hard pressed to spend $300 for something new that might gain me some thing. My vote would be for the filter alone.

The way I figure it, is its a cheap investment for an engine that costs 10k to rebuild. That goes for either the BHAF or the air box. I'd like the airbox for a cleaner look and better for extreme conditions.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

Just back from a long haul today. 240 miles.

Weather

Average Temperature: 95*F

Humidity: 23%

Vehicle

Speed: 65 MPH

IAT 125*F

EGT's: 650-700*F

Boost: 2-5 PSI

Standard BHAF

Now that I watch the IAT closely on the way home. I noticed some thing rather odd. Cruising at 65 MPH produced the coolest temperatures. Coasting down grades with exhaust brake off causes the IAT to rise as much as +10*F so I was seeing as much as 135*F coasting at 65 MPH down a 6% grade. Now of course exhaust brake will kick the IAT hard I can see easy 160-170*F IAT temperature rattling against the exhaust brake. Idling I would be right about 140-145*F. Climbing grades with 15-20 PSI of boost the IAT temp either slipped down 2*F or hold steady at 125*F.

Personally there isn't much to gain by enclosing the BHAF in a case.

Data Provided By:

ISSPro EV2's Gauges and ScanGauge II

Little bit warm there in Idaho.

We are about 68 degrees tonight.

What is your boost level at 65? 5-7 PSI? it could be the turbo working harder than it should at that particular RPM, load, etc.

Making the turbo work easier by allowing more clean air to make it to the compressor could bring IAT temps down. Only one way to find out.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

No restriction. Filter minder is not moving. Yes I've tested it and it working perfectly.

No restriction. Filter minder is not moving. Yes I've tested it and it working perfectly.

I have little faith in the filter minders. I have had one stay in it position on the factory airbox and the filter was beginning to deform due to being plugged and the turbo trying to suck in air. Checked the filter minder it functioned correctly while bench testing. Don't know why it wasn't working in the truck but passes bench testing.

I see larger temperature swings on my truck but I also have additional instruments prior to the intake plenum. The plenum really will heat up the air. I'm sure this is what helps keep the temperature where it should be to provide optimal performance.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

Tested monthly. Still working as designed.

Tested monthly. Still working as designed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jd7XsYrKI

Functions fine using the mouth test method I have also used a hose and a vacuum pump and it works but on the factory airbox it does not operate properly. I have yet to figure out why it does not operate correctly so I have resorted to having a look at every 5,000 miles or every oil change at 10,000 miles.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

Michael, I didn't realize the 2nd gen cam has so much overlap on it. I have really only seen an IAT rise on 1 of the 3 cams I have ran. The OEM didn't seem to have any IAT rise with the EB on and my current Hamilton 178/208 has very little, if any, IAT rise but the Colt Stage 1 had quite a bit. It always made me wonder if I was getting soot on my IAT sensor but when I had the intake off 2 years ago there was no buildup.

I would really like to see you hook up and hit white bird at 60-65 mph and 20K lbs to see what the IATs do. Even with the sealed air box and a 3" CAI tube below the fender my IATs pre-turbo go up quickly as coolant temp rises. My exhaust manifold and turbine are wrapped in a heat blanket so the added heat is not from EGTs. After watching pre-turbo IATs, intake manifold IATs and coolant temp over the last 90K plus miles the coolant temp has the biggest effect on IATs and turbo discharge temp appears to be the second. I know there are some differences in our body/airflow but underwood heat is underhood heat.

The location of the 2nd generation IAT sensor is also misleading to the true air temp, as we have discussed, so rises in it tell me there is a significant rise.

Filter minder is designed in inches of WATER not inches of MERCURY. Way different measurement. About the same vacuum force as you would place on a straw with a thick milk shake will pull mine down hard and fast. Now a long straw with a soft drink is about the tension it takes to pull half way. Mine does actually work. The few time boonie hopping through the mud and snow I got the filter wet and pull the minder down.

 

If your reset valve is not function properly then the disc will bleed off and self reset.

Michael, I didn't realize the 2nd gen cam has so much overlap on it. I have really only seen an IAT rise on 1 of the 3 cams I have ran. The OEM didn't seem to have any IAT rise with the EB on and my current Hamilton 178/208 has very little, if any, IAT rise but the Colt Stage 1 had quite a bit.

 

All stock inside the engine except for the injectors. I've seen IAT driven well up near 180-190*F easy coming out of the back country hauling firewood in 2nd gear and being shoved off the mountain.

All stock inside the engine except for the injectors. I've seen IAT driven well up near 180-190*F easy coming out of the back country hauling firewood in 2nd gear and being shoved off the mountain.

Intake/exhaust overlap and stagnant air will do that, especially with the location of the IAT sensor reading so close to the coolant.

I have never seen over 160° while driving and breaking 135° isn't easy either.. Even in a 95° day towing at 20K lbs up a grade with 26-30 lbs of boost and 215° on the coolant the IATs in the manifold are generally only 130-135°.

Filter minder is designed in inches of WATER not inches of MERCURY. Way different measurement. About the same vacuum force as you would place on a straw with a thick milk shake will pull mine down hard and fast. Now a long straw with a soft drink is about the tension it takes to pull half way. Mine does actually work. The few time boonie hopping through the mud and snow I got the filter wet and pull the minder down.

If your reset valve is not function properly then the disc will bleed off and self reset.

I'm aware of the vacuum necessary to draw down the gauge it even states inches of water. I do not use inches of mercury for anything not even testing requiring it. I just convert the values and go from there.

I am betting it is sticking or the reset valve is tripping due to engine vibration.

All stock inside the engine except for the injectors. I've seen IAT driven well up near 180-190*F easy coming out of the back country hauling firewood in 2nd gear and being shoved off the mountain.

What are your valve lash adjustment values? If your tight on your intake you will have a longer overlap duration. Tight on both intake and exhaust will equal an earlier overlap.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

Intake/exhaust overlap and stagnant air will do that, especially with the location of the IAT sensor reading so close to the coolant.

I have never seen over 160° while driving and breaking 135° isn't easy either.. Even in a 95° day towing at 20K lbs up a grade with 26-30 lbs of boost and 215° on the coolant the IATs in the manifold are generally only 130-135°.

It seems the design of our engines is more of a factor with IAT temps being so high.

I monitor IAT values but also intake temps. The intake temps are definitely lower at all times compared to the temp in the air plenum.

In some cases 10 degrees other cases 40 degrees more in the plenum VS what the intake temps are.

Edited September 13, 20159 yr by Vais01

It seems the design of our engines is more of a factor with IAT temps being so high.

I monitor IAT values but also intake temps. The intake temps are definitely lower at all times compared to the temp in the air plenum.

In some cases 10 degrees other cases 40 degrees more in the plenum VS what the intake temps are.

Yeah I think the stock IAT sensor readings on the 2nd gens are bogus and Cummins moved them in 03 to be more accurate. The 2nd gens sensors are overly effected by the proximity to cooling passages.

Where do you have your sensor located?

Remember you got to keep the location for the stock sensor any ways being the fuelling and timing tables is built on that sensor location. Colder location will make the MPG lower.

Yeah I think the stock IAT sensor readings on the 2nd gens are bogus and Cummins moved them in 03 to be more accurate. The 2nd gens sensors are overly effected by the proximity to cooling passages.

Where do you have your sensor located?

I have an aftermarket probe in the intake manifold aka the air horn. I agree bad sensor location for sure.

Remember you got to keep the location for the stock sensor any ways being the fuelling and timing tables is built on that sensor location. Colder location will make the MPG lower.

Correct. I just use them to compare values in my other probe in the air intake aka the air horn.