So... before I go spending too much more time and money on the truck I wanted to get an idea of engine health. Didn't want to spend the $300 on compression adapter and guage ..... so manometer.

My results were 2" at 2200 and 3" at 2800 ....

 

Problem is this I s about NEW engine spec .... so I think some things astray. Most obvious would be too much venting somewhere .... but my front gear vent is blocked off .... 

And I run a dual billet side tappet.... 

1 was blocked.

Other was blocked with 15/64 hole.

Measured from dipstick with clear tubing .... pics to come. Any ideas of where I'm venting or ....?? 

 

 

375-385 on 4

 

Hit a problem.

The air chuck is not angled. Can't get the guage on it with the firewall.

Guess going to have to get and angled adapter and make a join somehow.

List all your numbers for each cylinder.

1-375

2-375

3-375

4-375/385

 

gotta find some adapter somehow for 5+6..... To get air chuck on 45 angle don't know how hard that will be

I ran a piece straight up, then a 90 out.

Yo mean a 90 brass adapter on top of a straight chuck ....? Then to gauge ? 

 

Just not sure who will sell good quality stuff on noon Saturday's .......guess we'll find out  

Straight out of slug, 90, then air chuck. Napa should be find if you've got one available.

I have to ask, John. If you only have one profile why are two showing up?

Nick believes it's because he signed in with facebook and it created a new profile. 

BOD are aware....

Oh wasnt even sure what you guys were talking about. Then I saw the pic change.

Yeah - thats a FB photo so I think it must have happened from logging in from my IPAD ..... normally I login from my phone or laptop. Ha.

Got a 90 adapter - built it from a straight/90 degree brass/coupler ....... hope it holds 400psi

Off to walk dogs and eat .... 

 

1 minute ago, JOHNFAK said:

Oh wasnt even sure what you guys were talking about. Then I saw the pic change.

Yeah - thats a FB photo so I think it must have happened from logging in from my IPAD ..... normally I login from my phone or laptop. Ha.

Got a 90 adapter - built it from a straight/90 degree brass/coupler ....... hope it holds 400psi

Off to walk dogs and eat .... 

 

Oh the suspense.... you're not a very nice guy  

 

Just because you guys are so impatient.

355-375 on back 5+6.

Hard to be exact due to guage increment as well as it look like I lost 20psi with the coupler - went back and retested on different hole.

1- 375

    2-375
    3-375
    4-375/385
    5-355/375
   6- 355/375

 

so given cold engine ...... seems ok ..........
Think Im going to pull rockers tomorrow and look for bent pushrods.

Edited November 7, 20159 yr by JOHNFAK

Questions.

anything else to check apart from pushrods and valve lash when I put the rockers back.

also ...once it's all back together..... And after a run ..... Can I do a hot compression test on just 1 cylinder. Basically leave 2-6 all hooked up .... Disable FSS and lift pump. Disconnect #1 lines and pull injector and run compression on that cylinder only.

I don't see why not. just make sure she doesn't fire....

Can't think of anything else. Back in contact with PO and he says the truck has always been quite nasty/aggressive with that pump ...... Was 1000 hp at one stage.

oringed head and block after fire ring gave up the ghost

arp 625 

low mile engine ...... Waiting more specific details here ........

I'm confused... he had the head fire ringed, then replaced the head and O ringed the head and the block?

Correct.

Initially head was fireringed ........ didn't hold for whatever reason.

So a new head was put on and both the head and block were o-ringed.

 

Still trying to get a little more info on the engine .........but I retested #5 this morning and it was also at 375  (think it was actually the batteries/crank not the adapter.....)

 

So basically 375 across the board ...... cold engine.

If he put shaved pistons / fly cut pistons, thicker head gasket etc the compression will be slightly lower than stock.

Sounds like a perfectly healthy engine to me!

Alright.

So putting back together - decided to check valve lash.

Being a 24 p7100 ..... no timing marks for TDC. So was using ryan (isx) overlap method. Seems straight forward enough. Only problem is -- settting #1 lash for example

#6 exhuast is fully come up - so closed.
#6 intake just starts to transition ..... moving down

So #1 should be able to adjust both valves.

Yet Exhaust has no slack - fully enagged. Intake is very loose ... over 0.030
Somehtngs not right - your meant to be able to relas both intake and exhaust.

 

Make sure the exhaust is on the valve overlap where both valves are open.  If #1 still isn't right, then adjust it correctly, and then turn everything over by hand a couple times to makes sure it's all working correctly.

Remember that is the running mate. I've done this a bunch. So then 1 & 6 are running mates where the pistons both travel up together. So to adjust #1 you want #6 to transition intake/exhaust.  Then reverse it again so #1 is transition and adjust #6.